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V-Strom owners thread

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Thanks. Wonder if riding home, now that it is light, will further damage anything.

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Any other symptoms? Instrument cluster going bonkers? Clock resetting?

The reason I ask is that I had that problem, albeit momentarily, on my '05 Strom, and it included the lights going dead. Usually, everything magically came back after a few seconds. This problem was widely talked about on various forums, but nobody ever seemed to identify a specific fix. In my case, I had my electrical-savvy cousin help me look at it. In the wiring harness connections at the front of the bike, he identified a single bad connector. Rather than trying to take that whole thing apart & fix it, we just jumpered around it and the problem never recurred.

All this to say that if you don't find a bad fuse, try that harness connector. Jiggle everything, maybe disconnect the whole thing and soak it with electrical contact cleaner.
 
No other symtoms. Just lights. Will stab the starter switch a few times, cross my fingers and hope it is not the switchgear. Check out the beaver relay as soon as I get to the office .

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So, I stabbed the starter switch about 10 times before turning the bike on... and there was light! I love you guys. Will order the beaver relay ASAP!

Cheers.
 
I just helped a friend replace his switchgear a couple of days ago. then put a relay kit in his bike and then put relay kit in mine yesterday. When he opened the starter switchgear, a look at the switch made it obvious that it was the problem, it was fried, so he ordered the switchgear and I ordered 2 relay kits.
 
RichK said:
I just helped a friend replace his switchgear a couple of days ago. then put a relay kit in his bike and then put relay kit in mine yesterday. When he opened the starter switchgear, a look at the switch made it obvious that it was the problem, it was fried, so he ordered the switchgear and I ordered 2 relay kits.
Click to expand...

Since moving last December, this bike has sat too much (outdoors under a cover in covered parking), and I have been worried about electrical problems creeping in from fouled connections. Not to mention rodents making a condo in my airbox. Looking at the eastern beaver site, am I to gather that by putting the relay in, it takes the electrical strain off of the starter switch?
 
Yes, it now only puts wattage to trigger the relays thru the switch, and the power draw then comes from the battery. The bad thing is that this may help, but it won't cure the switch if it is fried. When you get time, open the switch gear, the bottom comes off easy for a view of the switch. Maybe it only needs a cleaning or spray out.
 
RichK said:
Yes, it now only puts wattage to trigger the relays thru the switch, and the power draw then comes from the battery. The bad thing is that this may help, but it won't cure the switch if it is fried. When you get time, open the switch gear, the bottom comes off easy for a view of the switch. Maybe it only needs a cleaning or spray out.
Click to expand...

I get it now, thanks. Crossing my fingers on the cleaning. I appreciate the help.
 
A plus for me with the Eastern Beaver headlight harness was a quick and easy access point for switched power for a Datel voltmeter. I spliced into the yellow and black wires from a relay to a light socket, so when low beams are on the voltmeter is powered. I don't care if there is a drop in volt reading there compared to running it to the battery, I'm just watching for trends anyway.
 
Add another to the list.

Picked her up a month ago and digging every minute.

33818184702_c7cfec3f42_c.jpg
 
Ah, I see you found your way to the VStrom thread. That's definitely an I-so-want-to-be-there-instead-of-here picture.
 
tshelfer said:
Ah, I see you found your way to the VStrom thread. That's definitely an I-so-want-to-be-there-instead-of-here picture.
Click to expand...

That's from Sunday night!

And yes, I'd much rather be there than here at work.

At least I get to leave, on two wheels, shortly.
 
Earlier I asked if the Givi stuff would mount on the 2012 factory racks and got a pretty definitive "NOPE". Going a step further, has anyone here used the factory racks for a Pelican/caribou type switch? I want to keep the factory top case, but need more pannier space. I am about to try two up camping and the factory "adventure" luggage is not very good. I mean, the biggest problem is the shape... Basically triangular inside. :giveup: Also, I want fab a support that runs from one bag to the other (much like the givi rack support) via the fender. As a last resort I will replace the racks. The factory stuff deletes the traditional grab handles and rack/pad (while being part of the top case mount) which most of the aftermarket stuff bolts to, which would create another expense. Any input or pic would be great!
 
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Looking at the Suzuki factory side racks... it appears that you may be able to drill extra holes & mount the Givi Monokey buttons & cheez wedge which are avail separately thru either them or SW Motech. Then any std Monokey case would fit.
Givi # E115F 2ea
SW Motech # KFT.00.152.105 1ea
Or.... look at Happy Trails case mounting pucks for the Pelican cases. Again possibly drilling new holes for upper knobs/pucks & welding a nut on back of rack (you can also get a steel well nut which wouldnt need welding)

Happy Trails # HTPMKXXX.1
select size to fit your tubing

Others offer similar kits on ebay too

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Mr2mch said:
Looking at the Suzuki factory side racks... it appears that you may be able to drill extra holes & mount the Givi Monokey buttons & cheez wedge which are avail separately thru either them or SW Motech. Then any std Monokey case would fit.
Givi # E115F 2ea
SW Motech # KFT.00.152.105 1ea
Or.... look at Happy Trails case mounting pucks for the Pelican cases. Again possibly drilling new holes for upper knobs/pucks & welding a nut on back of rack (you can also get a steel well nut which wouldnt need welding)

Happy Trails # HTPMKXXX.1
select size to fit your tubing

Others offer similar kits on ebay too

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I popped over to VSRI and Stromtrooper and it seems some people just bolt Seahorse & Pelican cases right onto the stock racks. However, I would like the option of a quick release. Looks like I would be able to do the Happy trails kit and some Pelicans (have not seen a seahorse yet) and be done for less than 200.00.
 
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"Just bolt" as in they're permanently mounted and you need a socket wrench to remove them?
 
tshelfer said:
"Just bolt" as in they're permanently mounted and you need a socket wrench to remove them?
Click to expand...

Yes, using the existing bottom "button" mounting holes and drilling tops after removing the factory buttons and lock wedge. I rarely take my bags off, but rarely is not never. I am scouring for used Peli's and will order the happy trails puck set once I have the cases in hand.
 
Mr2mch said:
A friend recently bought some Pelican clones from Sams Club .... $30ish ea brand new.... but not very large... mabe 20-25ltr ea

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Click to expand...

Good to know, I will poke around there too. Also, while I'm commandeering the thread today :trust:, I have noticed many of my friends switching to soft side-bags, citing injury concerns of aluminum bags breaking legs in wrecks. I sort of see plastic luggage as somewhere in the middle but I have passively looked at some Ortleib and Wolfman bags. Perhaps keeping the factory bags for commuting and using soft for "adventuring".
 
Mr2mch said:
There are many reports of folks having trouble with the locks & latches on those Suzy cases.... u mite also look into that

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Click to expand...

Like this... On mine a few months back.
 

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I haven't had any problems with my OEM panniers. But on my '05 VStrom, I used Cortech saddlebags. They served me well. Forget all the fancy straps & stuff; I simply threw them across the saddle in front of the tail box, and used a single bungee cord on each side to attach it to the passenger peg. Never had a problem, and I could pull them off in a matter of seconds to carry into a motel room. Really only two drawbacks I ever found:
1) They're not waterproof. If you get into serious rain, you have to mess with those darned rain covers.
2) Because of the rightside tail pipe, they don't sit symmetrical. The right one sticks out a bit and looks slightly goofy.
 
My front tire on Wee is a 110/80R17 will a 110/90R17 work in Shinko
Any thoughts on Shinko 705 vs, 712? I mostly back roads with some gravel.
Replacing Anakee, they were ok but pricy compared to 705. I ran 705 on a KLR and they worked good and as far as noise I can barely hear.
 
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