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What kind of antifrezee/coolant do you use?

Mark_M

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Just a thought summer is here and its time to get the bike ready for the hot weather. I did a coolant check with this lil gadget from wally world and it tells you the condition and how good your coolant protection is. Mine was ok but my level is low so I NEED to add some coolant.And as usual theres so much out there to choose from differen colors different brands yadi yada
My manual says use ethylene glycol antifreeze. I believe thats any regular green antifreeze that available out in the stores????

so what do you'll recommend ???
 

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COOLANT REPLACEMENT TIPS FROM DAVE KIMMY PRESIDENT OF ENGINE ICE

Coolant Replacement Tips
Be Ready For Summer

Thanks to Dave Kimmey, Owner/President Engine Ice High Performance Coolant

{Gadget Note: Motorcycle Newsgroups and Forums provoke nearly as many questions about cooling systems as they do oil choices. The following by Dave Kimmey is among the best explanations of the various types of coolant and their uses ever posted.} When you're ready to change coolant refer to this 'how to' page for Vulcan Classic & Nomad


Dave Says,

Since it's starting to warm up and you folks will be getting your bikes out of moth balls, I thought I'd take a minute to give you some information and education about antifreeze/coolant products as well as some insight as to what coolants actually are and what their true purpose is.

Now, being from Engine Ice, I am a bit biased and I admit it. However, most all of the products on the market are excellent products, but each has various uses and applications for them. We produce Engine Ice for specific high intensity and high heat applications. It really is not designed as an “everyday” coolant; it is for racing or high temperature applications. However, it can be used as an everyday coolant with no problem

There are two basic types of coolant/antifreeze, Ethylene Glycol (EG) and Propylene Glycol (PG) and then there are surfactant products such as Water Wetter from Red Line for example. All of the products mentioned are good products, just offering different things.

Ethylene Glycol (EG) – This is basically your “Prestone” type of products. Maxima’s Coolinol, Pro Honda Coolant and Spectro Coolant are examples of this type of product. It is basically the same as the coolant/antifreeze product you can buy at the auto parts store, but “silicate-free.” This is important, don’t get the stuff from the auto parts store unless it’s silicate free. Most are pre-diluted for easy use; they are diluted with a more pure distilled water or deionized water (deionized water is explained below). This is better water than what you can buy at the grocery store.

You really shouldn’t call an EG-based product a “coolant,” an “anti-boil” product would be more accurate. EG is made very cheaply and its primary purpose is to eliminate boil-over and to keep your system from freezing up. That’s basically it. It is not designed to actually reduce temperatures. If you are driving a car or a cruiser-type bike that does not have a temperature issue, these are fine products.

Water Wetter - It is an additive product. Water Wetter is what is called a “surfactant.” What this means is that it reduces the surface tension of the water or in other words, it allows the water/fluid to “rub” closer to the metal allowing it to better draw off heat. Water Wetter works and it is good stuff. However, if you add it to an EG antifreeze product your results are minimal. It will reduce temperatures, but by only a small amount. Added to water, you will see a significant difference in temperature reduction. But it will not raise the boil point of the water nor does it offer any antifreeze protection. So your engine may run a bit cooler, but when it gets hot it will “spit out” the coolant before other products do. That is not good, because now you’ll have less coolant in the engine. Using more than the recommended amount (4 capfuls to a quart) is a waste and it will not make any difference, only use their recommended amount.

Water alone is not recommended. You do need to add some type of water additive to it. Water alone is corrosive and it does not keep your seals, gaskets, water pump and water pump impeller shaft lubricated enough. Make sure something is added to water, do not run it all by itself.

I would not recommend Dex-Cool (the orange stuff). All reports and tests that I have heard of have not been good. It can "gel." It also has a tendency to clog up a motorcycle system. The radiator core and the system itself of a motorcycle is smaller when compared to an auto. I would avoid Dex-Cool and choose any other product before I'd recommend anyone using it.

Propylene Glycol (PG) – This is what Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant and Evans Coolant is made of. Evans is 100% PG and has an extremely high boil point of well over 350oF. They recommend you make some mechanical changes to your system, such as a zero psi cap or a different radiator in order to use it. Their goal is to eliminate boil-over, not to reduce temperatures. At their recommended 100% PG use, you’d have a boil point in excess of 350oF. At 100% PG, it would not be as effective at dissipating heat from your engine as well as it has a higher viscosity. Water is the ultimate coolant. All coolant products are measured against water for its heat dissipation capabilities. The lack of water in the use of Evans greatly reduces its ability to cool your engine. If you’re running heavy equipment or an 18-wheel truck, Evans is probably a good product.

Engine Ice is a diluted ratio of PG and Deionized water. The process of de-ionizing water eliminates all of the impurities that can do harm to your cooling system. Regardless if you are using tap, bottled, distilled, spring or R/O (reverse osmosis) waters, it can still contain minute particles of iron, magnesium, rust, lime and calcium. Many of these waters also contain chemicals, such as chlorine, fluorides and acids. Want proof? Take two different brands of distilled waters and perform your own taste test. They each taste different don’t they? If water were water, why would they be different? It’s because of the varying amounts of chemicals and minerals in these waters. These minerals and chemicals are what is the cause of scarring, scaling and mineral build-ups in your cooling system. Many also attribute these minerals and chemicals to water pump seal and gasket failures.

Engine Ice was developed and tested in the heat and humidity of Southern Florida. Tests have proven to reduce operating race temperatures by as much as 50oF in some situations. PG is a lubricant and is a surfactant in itself, meaning it has more capability to draw away more heat than EG-based products and even Water Wetter. It is biodegradable and non-toxic. It will not kill your dog, nor will it kill the plant life at your favorite track or trail. It is also legal in AMA, CCS and FUSA road racing.

Engine Ice has won over 275 National Championship Titles over the last two and a half years including the 2001 AMA 125cc West Supercross Championship with Ernesto Fonseca on the Yamaha of Troy YZ250F and in 2002 Chad Reed in the 125cc West Supercross Championship. You can bet that Yamaha Motor Corporation did extensive testing on Engine Ice prior to putting in into their premier bike in its debut year. It is also used an endorsed by the American Suzuki Amateur Motocross Program. Engine Ice sponsored racer, Darren Luck, won nine (9) CCS class championships in 2002 as well as earned the CCS Florida Expert #1 plate by the largest margin ever. Racers using Engine Ice won seven CCS Race of Champions National Championships at Daytona in 2001 and won an additional eight (8) in 2002.

As for flushing the system, we recommend a very simple and cheap radiator flush.
Go to your local grocery store and buy "White Distilled Vinegar" and mix that 50/50 with some distilled water.
Fill the system with the 50/50 mix, run the bike until warm, let cool, drain and then run clear water through to wash out the vinegar. It's the same idea as cleaning your coffee maker. The vinegar is acidic enough to remove any scale or impurities, but not so harsh that it will harm your delicate seals and gaskets.

WE DO NOT RECOMMEND AUTOMOTIVE RADIATOR FLUSHES...they're too harsh.


{Gadget Note: The above was posted by Dave to at least one news group/forum in 2002 and it was picked up for re-post to numerous other forums not as an advertisement for Dave's product but for informational purposes.}
 
I dont need no steenking coolant


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Avoid DexCool. It is a proprietary long-life coolant used in GM vehicles with reduced change intervals compared to the green stuff. It works well when everything is working right, but develops brown clumps that stop up coolant passages when exposed to contaminants (including air) in the system. It will last until the warranty expires.

I bought an S10 with DexCool from the factory. A friend that is a service manager in a Chevy/Buick/Cadillac dealer told me to "Get that $#!+ out of there." He reccommends tsat when the warranty expires, use Prestone Radiator Flush per the instructions, replace the thermostat, and switch to Prestone LongLife non-silicate antifreeze. You'll be good for 5 years or 150,000 miles. His shop only uses DexCool for warranty work or when a customer specifically requests it.
 
i use atmosphere.
highly recommended for air-cooled applications.
for liquid-cooled motors use a mix of over-the-counter motor coolant & fresh water- not sea water as that would be corrosive
 
I use the Maxima Coolanol. Works great and comes premixed 50/50. They also make a race version called Cool Aid but it does not contain any anti - freeze capabilities but is allowed on the track is you are so inclined.
 
I recommend Engine Ice as well. On a high compression 450 cc dirt bike in tight woods, which means slower speeds, the Engine Ice keeps my engine temp in check.
 
Any green, brand name automotive coolant from AutoZone, Wal-mart, Advanced auto, etc.. will be fine. Just make sure the bottle says "safe for aluminum". I haven't seen any coolant for a while that isn't compatible with aluminum.

+1 on staying away from the DexCool. I hate the DexCool. If you want to use red long life antifreeze, get it from a truck stop (Rotella ELC, Caterpillar, Delo ELC). The red coolant for diesels is different then the DexCool.
 
I have Engine Ice in the ST right now but am seriously considering Prestone Extended Life, silicate free antifreeze. The Prestone is $10 at Wal-Mart while it costs $40 to fill the system w/Engine Ice.

The Engine Ice has performed flawlessly over the past 30k miles or so since it's been in the bike....I guess it might be time for a change.
 
Any green, brand name automotive coolant from AutoZone, Wal-mart, Advanced auto, etc.. will be fine. Just make sure the bottle says "safe for aluminum". I haven't seen any coolant for a while that isn't compatible with aluminum.

+1.
Use distilled water only to mix. No tap water. Most municipal tap water is chock full of minerals that will clog the cooling system and/or tear up the water pump seal.
 
You can get the Prestone Extended Life 50/50 prediluted mix w/demineralized water at Wal-Mart for $10/gal. I just picked up a gallon today and will be changing out my coolant soon.

According to the label on the back:

  • Silicate, phosphate, borate, and nitrate free.
  • Extended protection to all engine cooling system metals including aluminum.
  • Will provide extended mileage or up to 5 year protection when added to any Extended Life coolant.
  • Freeze-up: -34°F
  • Boilover: +265°F

I'd love to go back to using Engine Ice but I can't afford it when the Prestone will work just the same. I'm sure if I was doing some racing there might be a bigger benefit to the Engine Ice but for the vast majority of us, the $30 saved will buy a lot of pie. :eat:
 
I have used Honda premixed antifreeze for a couple hundred thousand miles covering several bikes with no cooling system or water pump failures.
 
I use the atmosphere as well,( air in some parts of the country, it's mostly smog in Houston) along with a dunk in a bayou or creek when available.
 
This is what I love about this site. We all have such great advice for a fellow rider. Thank you all for the advice and suggestions.

I have such a busy scheddule this week I just wont have the time to flush and put in new coolant. So I went to the Yammy Dealer got ripped off on a quart of Yamaha anti freeze and topped off to the full level.

I will in the weeks to come when I get a chance do a full flush and get the Prestone green stuff. I think the Engine Ice sounds good and I'm sure is better for racing applications and off road etc which all dont really apply to me so I will pass due to price.

Once again thank you all for the great wealth of info you have shared here.

How about a quick refresher on "A Proper step by step radiator flush" any takers ?
 
If there is no visible gunk or deposits in the radiator, I simply drain the system, remove the hose returning coolant to the radiator from the radiator, stick a water hose in the fitting on the radiator where the return hose hooks up, turn the hose on just enough to keep the radiator full while the return hose dumps the water that has been through the engine. When the water runs clear, I shut off the engine and drain the system. refill with distilled water and idle the engine a few minutes. drain the system, refill with distilled water a second time and idle a few minutes. Drain the system and refill with coolant/antifreeze. Done.
 
How about a quick refresher on "A Proper step by step radiator flush" any takers ?


For this I actually followed the Engine Ice recommended procedure you posted earlier and is also available on their website. Ken's procedure is just as good if there isn't any contaminates in the system.

As for flushing the system, we recommend a very simple and cheap radiator flush.
Go to your local grocery store and buy "White Distilled Vinegar" and mix that 50/50 with some distilled water.
Fill the system with the 50/50 mix, run the bike until warm, let cool, drain and then run clear water through to wash out the vinegar. It's the same idea as cleaning your coffee maker. The vinegar is acidic enough to remove any scale or impurities, but not so harsh that it will harm your delicate seals and gaskets.
 
I have used Honda premixed antifreeze for a couple hundred thousand miles covering several bikes with no cooling system or water pump failures.

If you're talking the automotive pre-mix, it seems a lot of people use it and are happy with it. I'm just a tad lazy and the Prestone is less than five minutes from the house. Closest Honda dealer is twenty minutes or better depending on traffic.
 
I use SIERRA in everything I own that has coolant in it. I've never had issues with it ever, and if the dogs accidentally happen to get into it, it is a little safer for them.
 
I use SIERRA in everything I own that has coolant in it. I've never had issues with it ever, and if the dogs accidentally happen to get into it, it is a little safer for them.

Where are you picking it up at? I think Sierra is PG based coolant but can't remember...I'll have to check O'Reilly's today.
 
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