Clutch Replacement on DL650

Well

The clutch friction plate replacement is pretty stratight forward

List of tools

A = 8 mm hex, but for good measure bring all of them next to the bike

B = 14 mm wrench, for the drain plug.

C = 10 mm socket, 12 mm socket. Cannot remember what I used the 12 mm for but just bring it along too.

D = Assorted pliers (no, it is not a specific measure), small cross screwdriver (phillips, size small ... ish)

E = Oil catch pan

F = Coolant Catch pan

G = Many rags

E = Silicone gasket making compound

F = 10, and 12 mm wrenches for clutch cable adjusting.

G = Beer for you and buddy on a friday night. And saturday afternoon.







#1 - Get a buddy to crawl under the bike for you so to remove the drain plug, removing all the oil.



#3 - Be sure that item "G" is in working order



Move left footpeg out of the way.



A bungee cord tied to the luggage rack will keep them out of the way. If you don't have a luggage rack get one; they are great to have!



Disconnect water hoses and tuck them away. Be sure to make a huge mess. Upper smaller hose needs to get the clip pinched with the pliers. Fat lower hose needs the scredriver



Proceed to remove all bolts that circunnavigate the case. Do not bother separating the water pump; unlike in the DL1000 above, it will not come off.
That retaining clip keeps the pump gear in place.



Get a prybar and in this manner separate the case cover from the case.

Grow a goatee in the meantime.





What follows is the empy clutch basket. No, I did not burn the clutch elements to oblivion, I was simply too busy to take a picture of it. Remove the 5 bolts and springs. Do not loose the friction bearing and washers from the clutch shaft at the center of the assembly, neither drop them in the old contaminated oil. DAMHIK.



Old versus new. The OEM element on the friction discs / plates is softer and has less gripping surface than the EBC brand






Regain courage; you almost there!!



Replace the clutch element friction discs and the plates into the basket. There are 7 friction discs and 6 flat steel plates. They are an uneven number, so the first and the last one are friction element plates. Re - assemble presure plate. Do not forget about the friction bearings that live at the center of the pressure plate. "Elbow tight" is about right.
Gaket issues. I would probably get a new gasket since I am at it, but the silicone red goo made my day. Bolt up everuting together, pay attention to follow to the doctor in this one; if you are using the red seal, leave it cruring overnight for optimal result.

More pics to come, see ya tomorrow!!

rocketbunny said:

That bike is waaaay too clean. Ride once in a while, kay?

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As a general rule, if a bike never gets washed (like mine), the time TO wash it is right before serious surgery (aka repair/maintenance). The last thing wanted is for dirt from on the bike to get into parts.

Mine will get a thorough washing before going in for its full service checkup (need forks done, valves readjusted, throttle bodies synched).

I guess the problem with Posting Archeology is that you can find that the pictures are deleted.

I am ready to fix the Wee. I bought a set of SV-650 Kevlar friction discs instead of the Wee cork based ones (hopefully I will not regret it). I forgot the gasket (can you re-use them?) I will stop by the Suzuki dealer and hopefully they will got one.

Thanks Alejo for this post. I think that even without the pics there is enough information

Half the pics were of the two of them drinking beers between steps anyway Raul.

houstonredrider said:

I guess the problem with Posting Archeology is that you can find that the pictures are deleted.

I am ready to fix the Wee. I bought a set of SV-650 Kevlar friction discs instead of the Wee cork based ones (hopefully I will not regret it). I forgot the gasket (can you re-use them?) I will stop by the Suzuki dealer and hopefully they will got one.

Thanks Alejo for this post. I think that even without the pics there is enough information

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PM me if you need any help with it. I just finished up doing my clutch and it was a breeze. About the friction plates I don't have a clue. I know my stockers in my 1k were just fine after 40k+ miles on them. It was the steel plates that were the problem.

Gasket, mine you couldn't reuse, and I wouldn't want to anyway. There are some pretty critical areas that kind of keep oil out of the coolant and coolant out of the oil, and I wouldn't want to short cut it. But good luck getting a gasket in stock. I know I had to wait a week and a half for mine to come it.

DFW_Warrior said:

PM me if you need any help with it. ...

But good luck getting a gasket in stock. I know I had to wait a week and a half for mine to come it.

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Thank you Bill.

Yep, I am ordering them online, no one have them. I should have order it with the clutch plates .
I have not open it yet, hopefully the metal plates are OK.

houstonredrider said:

Thank you Bill.

Yep, I am ordering them online, no one have them. I should have order it with the clutch plates .
I have not open it yet, hopefully the metal plates are OK.

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Oh... you're not ordering steel plates as well? If it were me I would just go ahead and order them. They really aren't that much more and you might as well do the whole thing while you're in there.

What symptoms are you having with the clutch as it stands right now?

During the LA trip. http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25693

Afer doing some mud and single track throug the forest we reached a creek:

I got stuck and it seemed that a little bit upstream from here there was a "beach" that may be easier. Wrong. the pig sunk and it was a struggle to get her out. After that it was done. I crawl my way back to the road as it was sleeping very bad

I see this picture and I want ot cry. Isn't it sad?

Okay, so it's slipping badly and pretty much feels like it's in neutral when you gas it?

It slips badly but still pulls a little. Once movig at, say, 35 mph if you roll the rpm will pick up but the bike will not move. The oil through the sight looks very clean (It only has about 1000 miles since last change). I am thinking it is just worn out (20k miles on bike) and not burned/ overheated.

No, something is wrong with it I can promise you. 20k miles on a Wee clutch is nothing. Heck, 40k miles on the 1k's is usually never a problem. Mine had a problem from the get go, but I just lived with it for 30k miles.

Now as to "what" is wrong with it, that is hard to tell. But I would highly recommend replacing all the parts while you are in there. It's a pain in the but to do and I'd only want to do it once. Also, if you do decide to get all the parts I would also buy the inner washer, and inner spring (it looks like a washer), as well as the bearing and washer on the end of the pushrod tube.

houstonredrider said:

I guess the problem with Posting Archeology is that you can find that the pictures are deleted.

I am ready to fix the Wee. I bought a set of SV-650 Kevlar friction discs instead of the Wee cork based ones (hopefully I will not regret it). I forgot the gasket (can you re-use them?) I will stop by the Suzuki dealer and hopefully they will got one.

Thanks Alejo for this post. I think that even without the pics there is enough information

Click to expand...

change the clutch already, olgazan!

Don_Alejo said:

change the clutch already, olgazan!

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OK. I've replaced the clutch. Three times and now is slipping.

• First time: everything smooth and nice. Open, replace, close and go.... NO. No disengagement.
  .
• Second time. Drain oil and coolant, open and check. Springs are too long, when screwing the bolts, they lock the clutch. I put two washers so the bolts so they don't go all the way, leaving some room for the clutch to operate,. Assemble, refill and go. Now the clutch slips
  .
• Third time: Open again. Try one washer: too tight. Two thinner washer. Rebuild and still slips.

I am ordering the driven plates as Bill sugested, the aluminum pressure plates since it has a lot of wear and new springs

I am not please about the EBC Kevlar clutch kit having the wrong springs, hopefully this is not a warning about the overall quality.

I am definitelly doing a good engine clean up with three oil changes in 3 miles.

I will try to put pictures tonigh.

I think I can change that clutch blindfolded

houstonredrider said:

I think I can change that clutch blindfolded

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At least it is easy to get to, the boxer engine require you to split the bike in half, front to back and it has a car like clutch back there.

I have move the discussion to Help request since now I am stuck with questions: http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29753