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KLR650 Thread
- Thread starter TexasStubs
- Start date
I recognize that bridge! It had less water on it, but still plenty of slime, when it took me and my GS down. Not a fun day. Wreck, slime, dead bike, thunderstorm, mud, charging rottweiler...
Found a lot of water today. Riding solo, so no action shots
Been over it a couple times now, but not on this day. A rancher came rolling through and told it it was flowing a lot faster than it looked and I watched his rear end on his f250 slide out a little in the middle of the bridge as he went through
Should be good to go now though!
The 685 is a $330-$395 job compared to the near $1000 for the 705 kit which has a new sleeve and needs bigger valves and tolerances are super tight. Whereas the 685 is a half a day upgrade and had the reputation of reliability. Contact Eagle Mike for your kit. And feel free to ask for help, we Doo it all the time for free.
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Weigh yourself when you have on all your riding gear. This is the weight you really need to consider when setting up the forks. You might be surprised at how much all your gear weighs. I started with the progressive springs in my 02 KLR. I just never really liked them off the pavement, especially if the road had ANY amount of wash boarding on it. I switched to RaceTech straight rate springs and they were MUCH better in all conditions. I did not mess with an emulator. I used slightly heavier than stock oil, but I can't remember the exact weight. Getting your preload spacers correct is also important for setting the front sag. I used PVC pipe because it was easy to cut. I don't recall the pipe size though, maybe 3/4" or 1". On the rear, all I did was replace the stock spring with a 420 series spring. Those two suspension upgrades made a big difference in how the bike handled. They set me back about $240-250 total. When riding in the more technical stuff, I really liked having the 14 tooth front sprocket on the bike. Those extra bit of revs and the extra bit of chugging power really make a difference on steep climbs. I wish I had done this before heading to Colorado to ride all the passes around Ouray!!Here are some ride reports where I used the KLR for pretty technical stuff:
Gnats, Knobbies, Bolts, Bullets and Boulders... The Thrashing of Best Laid Plans...
Cloudcroft New Mexico ride - Memorial Day Weekend 2010
The Great SW Colorado Mountain Pass Adventure of 2010 (Might want to skip to page two of the posts because the image links for most of page one are dead).
Those reports will give you a good idea of what my reference is for harder stuff, especially the first day or so of that Arizona trip and Imogene and Black Bear passes in Colorado. On the Colorado trip, the guys on the KLRs were working HARD and the KTM guys were CHEATING! 
If you REALLY want to ride more technical gnarly stuff, I would not suggest trying to make the KLR what it isn't, a trail bike. Yes, it CAN be ridden in the really nasty stuff. I did it with mine. It was a LOT of work and I fell down a lot 
Yes, I had fun. However, after getting a lighter bike with better suspension, more power, and better brakes, I realized just how hard I was having to work on the KLR when I got in the rough stuff. I still fall down, just not as often 
The KLR is a great bike. There is a reason why it has been so popular with world travelers. Bang for the buck it is hard to beat. But I am a big believer in the right tool for the right job. If you really want to do the nasty stuff, keep the KLR and get a second bike for that stuff. Use the KLR for "Adventure" riding: paved stuff, forest roads, two track roads, and mild trails. Use the lighter bike for the rough stuff. It will be MUCH easier to learn good riding skills and habits and you will be MUCH less likely to get hurt. I speak from experience having started my DS riding on an 02 BMW R1150GS, then moving to an 02 KLR 650, and finally to a 2010 KTM 530 EXC and 2005/2007 BMW R1200GS. In the hard stuff, weight is THE enemy. It makes you expend energy in ways you don't even realize. As you use up your energy, mistakes become more common and the odds of getting hurt go up considerably.
There are a few of us that take the KLR to places only some dream of on dirt bikes.
Here's the simple skinny on how to make the KLR get you there and last mechanically.
KLR Suspension.
Lots of recent questions on suspension in the group.
Plenty of options out there.
Few points to keep in mind.
The KLR (all years) has an antiquated suspension system. Why? Because it's extremely inexpensive to manufacture.
The system doesn't have a modern upside down cartridge system.
It relies on a dampening rod system.
The common modern terms of rebound and compression for KLR forks are basically dampening both ways with oil being forced through orifices.
Preload and sag have a minimal effect compared to modern suspension and the KLRs lack of travel. (I prefer not to loose clearance)
I believe the OEM spring rate is .40kg/mm
Straight rate springs usually are around .45-.65 kg/mm
And the Progressive spring is .59 kg/mm to .72 kg/mm.
And if you have a 2014.5 and up New edition your stock spring rate is .52kg front and 8.1kg rear.
Fork emulators, cartridges, or valves allow for fork oil to emulate/function like cartridge forks. Some are adjustable/(out of the forks)
Spacers can add preload by becoming longer and adding slight pressure on the springs while at rest. (But you lose travel dependent on the preload added)
Increased Oil volume can improve compression on the last 1/4 of the suspension travel.
Raising links for the rear change the geometry of the rear linkage not the spring rate. The change makes the same spring feel stiffer by way of geometry. They also add clearance height (which adds seat height) less than 2".
Topgun and Eibach seem to sell the cheapest rear springs.
Custom springs can be personalized for size and preference. Raceteck, Progessive, etc.
Fork oil weight/level can add stiffness/firmness but can also cause a blockage at orifice/valves if it's too thick for the rate. (Experiment)
Thinner oil weight and less oil volume makes for a softer ride.
Fork seals and bushings should be checked periodically.
Compressed air knocks the old fork seals out easily. Pvc pipe can be used to drive in the new seals.
OEM fork seals are the best seals to use IMO.
Monotube cartridges replace OEM dampening rods and utilize gas for compression and rebound. A more consistent compression/rebound system.
Mineral Spirits is great for cleaning out the dirty fork oil when changing oil. (Remove forks and turn upside down)
My rear setup is:
Stock OEM shock,
Eagle Mikes raising links.$69
Topgun 8.0 rear spring $79.
Front setup is ProGs $90 or less with Cogent DDCs $80 (slightly used)and Maxima 5wt oil $9
125mm and 1/2" longer spacers-(free cut from OEM spacers). Stock OEM seals and bushings AllBalls head bearings.
This setup has proven to be an excellent aggressive/very stiff off road system. Makes for a harsh ride on road but the ProG springs give a little and make it a great compromise. I set up to take a hard hit and suffer on the plush ride for that reason.
We're showing what the KLR is capable of, one video at a time.
Slaugo
Here's the simple skinny on how to make the KLR get you there and last mechanically.
KLR Suspension.
Lots of recent questions on suspension in the group.
Plenty of options out there.
Few points to keep in mind.
The KLR (all years) has an antiquated suspension system. Why? Because it's extremely inexpensive to manufacture.
The system doesn't have a modern upside down cartridge system.
It relies on a dampening rod system.
The common modern terms of rebound and compression for KLR forks are basically dampening both ways with oil being forced through orifices.
Preload and sag have a minimal effect compared to modern suspension and the KLRs lack of travel. (I prefer not to loose clearance)
I believe the OEM spring rate is .40kg/mm
Straight rate springs usually are around .45-.65 kg/mm
And the Progressive spring is .59 kg/mm to .72 kg/mm.
And if you have a 2014.5 and up New edition your stock spring rate is .52kg front and 8.1kg rear.
Fork emulators, cartridges, or valves allow for fork oil to emulate/function like cartridge forks. Some are adjustable/(out of the forks)
Spacers can add preload by becoming longer and adding slight pressure on the springs while at rest. (But you lose travel dependent on the preload added)
Increased Oil volume can improve compression on the last 1/4 of the suspension travel.
Raising links for the rear change the geometry of the rear linkage not the spring rate. The change makes the same spring feel stiffer by way of geometry. They also add clearance height (which adds seat height) less than 2".
Topgun and Eibach seem to sell the cheapest rear springs.
Custom springs can be personalized for size and preference. Raceteck, Progessive, etc.
Fork oil weight/level can add stiffness/firmness but can also cause a blockage at orifice/valves if it's too thick for the rate. (Experiment)
Thinner oil weight and less oil volume makes for a softer ride.
Fork seals and bushings should be checked periodically.
Compressed air knocks the old fork seals out easily. Pvc pipe can be used to drive in the new seals.
OEM fork seals are the best seals to use IMO.
Monotube cartridges replace OEM dampening rods and utilize gas for compression and rebound. A more consistent compression/rebound system.
Mineral Spirits is great for cleaning out the dirty fork oil when changing oil. (Remove forks and turn upside down)
My rear setup is:
Stock OEM shock,
Eagle Mikes raising links.$69
Topgun 8.0 rear spring $79.
Front setup is ProGs $90 or less with Cogent DDCs $80 (slightly used)and Maxima 5wt oil $9
125mm and 1/2" longer spacers-(free cut from OEM spacers). Stock OEM seals and bushings AllBalls head bearings.
This setup has proven to be an excellent aggressive/very stiff off road system. Makes for a harsh ride on road but the ProG springs give a little and make it a great compromise. I set up to take a hard hit and suffer on the plush ride for that reason.
We're showing what the KLR is capable of, one video at a time.
Slaugo
They got this thing called AdventureCross here in Texas. Askey Ranch Decatur TX. Big bikes on closed course. Water crossings, mud holes, small jumps, single and double track.
here's a full lap AdventureCross Event that I was Fully satisfied with and Stoked on the event.
[ame="http://youtu.be/i2RSrMJBiTk"]One full lap of AdventureCross With John and Tony - YouTube[/ame]
here's a full lap AdventureCross Event that I was Fully satisfied with and Stoked on the event.
[ame="http://youtu.be/i2RSrMJBiTk"]One full lap of AdventureCross With John and Tony - YouTube[/ame]
snapp600
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Cleaning my chain and trying to keep my tire from rubbing the guard. I have it off. Is there any reason that i absolutely have to keep it on? I know sticks and rocks, and what nots. This is my first dual sport, so i figured i would ask the masses.
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8bit
0
Put the lower guard back on. Unless you like the feeling of your foot going in the sprocket
Get some fender washers, lock washers and nuts, and put it back on.
8bit
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KLR650 Thread - Affordable Foot Pegs
I always kind of wanted to change out the stock foot pegs for something with better grip but typically found the cost too high. The other day Amazon sent an email with random motorcycle parts for sale and there were these foot pegs for less than $20.00! So I ordered a set and then also ordered a set of springs since springs were not included. I'm happy and for less than $40
Thought I'd pass this on in case there was anyone else looking for a cheap solution.
From Amazon, Krator® - Dirtbike Foot Rest Stomper Footpegs - $18.38
From Motorcycle Superstore - Moose Racing Springs For Moose Racing Footpegs
$12.95
I always kind of wanted to change out the stock foot pegs for something with better grip but typically found the cost too high. The other day Amazon sent an email with random motorcycle parts for sale and there were these foot pegs for less than $20.00! So I ordered a set and then also ordered a set of springs since springs were not included. I'm happy and for less than $40
Thought I'd pass this on in case there was anyone else looking for a cheap solution.
From Amazon, Krator® - Dirtbike Foot Rest Stomper Footpegs - $18.38
From Motorcycle Superstore - Moose Racing Springs For Moose Racing Footpegs
$12.95
Last edited:
Photos aren't working for me Steve (Apple laptop/Firefox). Any chance at a retry? Would like to see what you got there.
**** chiricahua, that looks like an awesome place! You ride that bike **** fast!
**** chiricahua, that looks like an awesome place! You ride that bike **** fast!
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Okay, I think the photos should be working now...
snapp600
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Re: KLR650 Thread - Affordable Foot Pegs
I love my krators! Def a good buy.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I always kind of wanted to change out the stock foot pegs for something with better grip but typically found the cost too high. The other day Amazon sent an email with random motorcycle parts for sale and there were these foot pegs for less than $20.00! So I ordered a set and then also ordered a set of springs since springs were not included. I'm happy and for less than $40
Thought I'd pass this on in case there was anyone else looking for a cheap solution.
From Amazon, Krator[emoji768] - Dirtbike Foot Rest Stomper Footpegs - $18.38
From Motorcycle Superstore - Moose Racing Springs For Moose Racing Footpegs
$12.95
I love my krators! Def a good buy.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
8bit
0
8-bit eBay says they are aluminum are they really aluminum?
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8bit
0
Yes, cast aluminum. I've rode mine pretty hard, no issues. I'm pushing 220 lbs.
8bit
I picked up some from eBay they said they were stainless butt they were cast Steel. Do you think the aluminum one will hold up because I'm 360 pounds now down from 394 from when I bought the bike in July of last year. I'm hoping to be down to 250 by the end of this year.
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Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
8bit
0
SilverBullet
never slow down...you never grow old
http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109252
Expensive but once you use Pivot Pegz you won't want to ever be without them. Makes shifting and braking while standing so much easier and comfort on long rides better as well. Super strong, ample sized without being overly ginormous like some of those platform type pegs.
_
