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Old 04-15-2018, 08:36 PM   #2221
mitchntx
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Re: The DR/DRZ Thread

LOL ... it's been kind of fun.
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Old 04-16-2018, 02:28 PM   #2222
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Re: The DR/DRZ Thread

I think it entertained to old monkeys for several days....
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Old 04-17-2018, 10:19 AM   #2223
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Re: The DR/DRZ Thread

Spare key question ...

I'm having a difficult time getting my head around which key blank I need to order. I see multiple "options" for a genuine Suzuki blank.

37146-01F00 KEY, BLANK (TYPE:C) OPT
37146-01F10 KEY, BLANK (TYPE: D) OPT
37146-01F20 KEY, BLANK (TYPE:E) OPT
37146-01F30 KEY, BLANK (TYPE:F) OPT

How would I know which one? Or does it matter?
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:42 AM   #2224
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Re: The DR/DRZ Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchntx View Post
Spare key question ...

I'm having a difficult time getting my head around which key blank I need to order. I see multiple "options" for a genuine Suzuki blank.

37146-01F00 KEY, BLANK (TYPE:C) OPT
37146-01F10 KEY, BLANK (TYPE: D) OPT
37146-01F20 KEY, BLANK (TYPE:E) OPT
37146-01F30 KEY, BLANK (TYPE:F) OPT

How would I know which one? Or does it matter?
It matters as the "slots" and or side relief (I have no doubt there are proper terms for those things....LOL) come in different styles.

Match your key to the keys in the pic


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Old 04-17-2018, 05:05 PM   #2225
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DRZ400s question

My son's DRZ400s has been sitting in my garage. It has not been run since November of last year. I want to get it running again, but don't know if I should just try to start it; or if I should empty the gas tank, refill it and then try to start it; or if I should have the carburetor cleaned gas tank emptied and then restarted.
I had issues with carb gunking up really fast on a TTR125; so I would appreciate any advice.
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Old 04-17-2018, 06:53 PM   #2226
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Re: The DR/DRZ Thread

I'll default to E.Marquez or OldTLSDoug.
EM is a DRZ sensei and Doug is DRZ-Yoda

I'd just try and start it. If it fires, shut it down immediately.

Change the oil and filter. Does the oil smell like fuel?

If so, you should look into a car cleaning and rebuild and maybe even a petcock rebuild.
I would also flush the fuel tank.

If not, I bet you are good.

I would also check the air box for oil residue and get a new filter.

Checking the coolant level would be wise as well.
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Old 04-17-2018, 07:03 PM   #2227
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Re: DRZ400s question

Quote:
Originally Posted by emmed1 View Post
My son's DRZ400s has been sitting in my garage. It has not been run since November of last year. I want to get it running again, but don't know if I should just try to start it; or if I should empty the gas tank, refill it and then try to start it; or if I should have the carburetor cleaned gas tank emptied and then restarted.
I had issues with carb gunking up really fast on a TTR125; so I would appreciate any advice.
Drain the oil and refill mostly as a way to confirm no gas leaked into the case as is common with stored DRZ's And at less then 2 gt, cheap insurance, good maintenance practice all around. (In a perfect world, you would put the bike in to storage with a fresh oil change and topped off gas tank no air, using Race gas).
Remember, do not reuse the OEM case drain plug crush washer, if you use a new OEM crush washer, install it correctly

and go easy on tightening.
Other wise you get this early B day present




And try and start with a jump battery connected,,,,,,,,It wont start, or it will and wont idle But no harm in trying strange things can go right.

When it wont start or wont idle, drain old gas, and clean carb.... Sonic tank would be best, but baring that, go on line and order a can of PM3 Motorcraft - Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner. Its banned in Uk and EU countries and CA///So you know its good stuff..... But really it does work best I have found.. NO RUBBER PARTS.

Disassemble the carb completely. Plan on replacing the O ring at the fuel valve seat it will be bad. Its an Odd size 7.75 I.D. x 1.53mm , only available from a few sources I know of....the needle and seat will likely be ok and not need replacement, but the full set is all the OEM has. I'll post two other sources for just the o ring later.

EDIT Ok its later ...LOL https://www.jetsrus.com/individual_p...02_709_su.html

http://www.nichecycle.com/ncs/catego...by-mikuni.html

And there is another source on Amazon pack of 10 for $3.00 ..... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
LOL, well it was $3 till we bought him out, 1000 packets in a week..and now that he restocked, the price went up to $6.43 ....And he is out again, sorry, just bought the last pack a few min ago. I was giving them out, but as his pricing keeps going up, cant do that any more.

Check each passage with a shot of brake clean .. Personally Id toss the pilot and starter jets and install new. The main is easily cleaned. If you have the correct jet cleaner tool, the others can be cleaned. I do, and still toss them often as its not worth my time and once clogged, they always seem to clog again sooner next time.

Once gas, carb and oil is addressed, give her a start, check for gas, coolant and oil leaks, if you have a volt meter, check charging voltage, 13.2 or better and your ok, with the "free Power Mod, you should be at 14.2~14.8 wihch is better.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg drain-washer.jpg (14.9 KB, 57 views)
File Type: jpg DRZ drain plug crack.jpg (35.5 KB, 60 views)
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Old 04-17-2018, 07:33 PM   #2228
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Re: The DR/DRZ Thread

Hey Mitch, why are you recommending cleaning the car?

I think we have run across a potential spelling error, sir. I think you guys handled it.

Erik, thanks for confirming for me that I put my oil drain washer on correctly. I looked at the new one, and went for it. I think I had been using copper washers until this oil change because Gixxerjasen included them in the spares when I bought her back.
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Old 04-17-2018, 07:40 PM   #2229
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Re: The DR/DRZ Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldTLSDoug View Post
Hey Mitch, why are you recommending cleaning the car?

I think we have run across a potential spelling error, sir. I think you guys handled it.

Erik, thanks for confirming for me that I put my oil drain washer on correctly. I looked at the new one, and went for it. I think I had been using copper washers until this oil change because Gixxerjasen included them in the spares when I bought her back.
I'm fine with plain copper washers on this motor, they work great. I keep the OEM ones on hand, as a CYA thing since I'm putting them others motors.

The issue with installing the washer wrong, or reusing it over and over is it forms a nice wedge,

Driving the wedge into the case, and the case fractures as seen above .
And the nice thing as its really repeatable, had one guy try his luck twice ...yup broke two cases
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File Type: jpg DRZ washer wedge.jpg (24.0 KB, 58 views)
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Old 04-17-2018, 07:42 PM   #2230
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Re: The DR/DRZ Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldTLSDoug View Post
Erik, thanks for confirming for me that I put my oil drain washer on correctly. I looked at the new one, and went for it. I think I had been using copper washers until this oil change because Gixxerjasen included them in the spares when I bought her back.
If it'd realized I wasn't done with DRZ's I'd have kept the tackle box of spares I built. Had to build another one. Thank goodness for the spreadsheet. Oh well, all well in the end, right?
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Old 04-18-2018, 05:15 AM   #2231
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Re: The DR/DRZ Thread

I think you and I are both never going to be finished with the DR-Z. You are on your 3rd one, I am on number four, I think we should never sell them. I do have a motor that was very ill. It ate the lower rod bearing. I am thinking I can build a new motor for mine with it, only just the head. This one has the head machined for the compression release, and that gets me an inch closer to a kicker motor. I think that would be sweet.
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Old 04-18-2018, 08:41 AM   #2232
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Re: The DR/DRZ Thread

I have two in my garage. Does that count?
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Old 04-18-2018, 02:23 PM   #2233
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Re: The DR/DRZ Thread

Nope because you can't spell carb...
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