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Old 11-05-2015, 10:59 PM   #41
SpiritAtBay
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

Note to readers:

We did so much each day while in Mexico…I may be getting some days jumbled up. I am pressing ahead though; JT will eventually post maps and tracks for those who have a pressing need to know exactly where and when we went and how we got there… My approach is going to be more in a storytelling vein and less a daily chronological report.

So, here we go…

This chapter doesn't have much in the way of pics and is titled:


JT Laid Low

The morning of the 14th, we left Aquismon with plans to take secondary roads to Tamosopo.

Here is the hotel in Aquismon.


We stopped for an early lunch on the edge of Aquismon. JT had already complained of feeling a bit poorly. The restaurant was new and very clean. We met the owner’s son who had been schooled in Tennessee. Emilio was friendly and knowledgeable, giving us directions to some nearby waterfalls.

We decided we didn’t have the time for the waterfalls. (To see them, one rents a boat to travel upstream.) Since we weren’t sure of the condition of the roads, we decided we had better press on.

The weather was sunny, warm, with a cool breeze. The route was absolutely beautiful, taking us through fertile valleys of date palms, sugar cane, plenty of livestock and ‘fence trees’. The road was pristine, curvy two lane asphalt interspersed with short sections of almost total washout and deep potholes. We came upon a hairpin turn that was severely washed out. When I rounded a bend and saw this sharp, rutted, rocky switchback ahead of me, I came to a complete stop. JT radioed, offering to ride my bike thru. I was tempted, but decided to try. It looked worse than it was; Suzi handled it easily and we were on our way.

About 50 miles from Aquismon, we had just turned onto a highway when we stopped at a Pemex. Here is where I discovered my small travel pouch was missing. It contained no money, but did have my passport, tourist card and vehicle import permit. We moved to some nearby shade. I was conducting a futile search of all my bags when John suddenly felt much worse and began tossing cookies into the weeds.

I am not much help with this sort of thing. Someone puking can set me to launching my own lunch. Heartlessly, I vigorously ignored the sight and sounds coming from JT’s direction. Gingerly offering him a water bottle when it seemed things had quieted down.

We decided we could not press on, JT did not feel he could make it all the way to Tamosopo. And there was the matter of Ms. Numbskull’s missing pouch.

So, we backtracked. But now we were focused on saving JT’s waning energy and scanning the road sides in the vain hope of spotting the missing pouch. The day no longer seemed so carefree.

Then that awful switchback caught us both by surprise. JT of course, made it through. I got on the wrong side of it and became stranded on a narrow peninsula of asphalt that jutted out above a veritable sea of deep ruts and loose rocks. (Yes, a veritable sea!) Again, JT offered to ride Suzi out. I studied the situation. If I duck-walked Suzi backward far enough, I should be able to turn and ride across the ruts… I shook my head ’No’ to JT and did just what I planned and it was easier than I imagined. In fact, I was so busy congratulating myself that I drove off the edge of good road and into a pile of soft gravel, spun out the rear tire and fell over sideways. Unhurt, I jumped up and watched as Suzi continued crawling around my feet until her tires were pointing uphill.

JT was immediately there checking on me and attempted to pickup the fully loaded bike. Not gonna happen. We took all three cases off and together got the beast upright.

The effort absolutely drained JT. A swallow of Gatorade came right back up. While he rested, I realized he was too dehydrated and nauseated to be able to recover on his own. It had gone from just needing rest and recoup- to needing outside help. He needed IV fluids, it was plain as day. And here we were, miles between towns. I didn’t say anything about going to a doctor to JT, I feared he would protest. After a while, though, I gently suggested that we continue; he wasn’t going to get any stronger sitting by the side of the road.

Finally, we reached the restaurant we had lunched at earlier. JT waited outside. I went in and asked Emilio where we could find a doctor. He immediately offered to lead us on his own motorcycle. However, when we stepped back outside, we were confronted with the sight of JT passed out on the grass. Now Emilio offered to drive us in his pickup. JT woke up and insisted on riding back into town. “It would be too much hassle to have to come back for the bikes later.” He was too weak to argue about going to the hospital.

We went first to the hotel where we had stayed. We were barely in the courtyard when one of the girls came running out with my pouch in her hand. It had fallen off the bike as we pulled out that morning. (I slap hand to forehead and give a big Homer “DOH!”)

We left the bikes as they were, everything on them, keys in the ignition and climbed into Emilio’s truck. At the hospital, Emilio stayed the whole 4 plus hours and acted as translator. We are forever in his debt. It took an hour of IV drip for JT to perk up a little. Emilio and I spent a good bit of that time watching him sleep. (Being that ill did not impede JT’s snoring ability. Emilio asked, “Is this noise normal?”)

The doctor on call was, to mine aging eyes, incredibly young. She had a vivacious, mischievous, almost flirtatious way about her. When all was said and done, she told us (through Emilio) there was no charge for the visit. We were stunned. On our way out the door, she had a parting shot; she looked at JT and said in English, “No more Mexican food.”

By morning, JT was almost his normal self. By the end of the day, he had a lingering headache but his energy level was back to normal.
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Dos Semanas En Mexico - Oct2017

Mexico Paved - Oct2015

A Week in New Mexico - Oct2014

Last edited by SpiritAtBay; 11-05-2015 at 11:09 PM. Reason: add pix
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Old 11-06-2015, 02:42 PM   #42
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

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Being that ill did not impede JT’s snoring ability. Emilio asked, “Is this noise normal?”


Regarding the doctor's apparent youthfulness: In Mexico, as in many countries, students are accepted in medical school directly out of High School and so they enter practice at a younger age. They do go through a longer post-med school training period than the typical residency in the US, however.
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Old 11-06-2015, 02:51 PM   #43
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

Wow... close call with JT. It was great of Emilio to help out. Dehydration is not a trivial thing. I got a bout of the full ejection syndrome a few years ago that caused me to lose 18 lbs in about 24 hours and it took me a few weeks before I fully recovered. It was two days after it ended before I could even stand up without immediately losing my balance. It was the weakest I have ever felt in my life.
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Old 11-06-2015, 05:51 PM   #44
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

A true adventure, have thought John was immune to Mexican food by now!
Glad he recovered fast.
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Old 11-07-2015, 02:13 AM   #45
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

We Must Speak of Twisties

Day 7, 16oct fri

The extra day spent in Aquismon meant that Tamosopo was scratched from the intinerary. Time was getting short, if we wanted to see the MexTrek guys in Galeana, we had to head straight there. We left Aquismon for the second morning in a row.

315 miles later, we rolled into the town square of Galeana and parked our bikes with those in front of the Hotel Magdalena.


But wait, I must speak of the heavenly twisties going thru the mountains on the way in to Galeana.

The twisties going thru the mountains to Galeana are heavenly. If you haven’t, you must ride them someday. I would like to return, ride them again and stay in the little town of Iturbide.

Google Maps tells me that from the city of Linares, it takes a little over an hour to get to Galeana, going through the mountains . (I looked it up because even though we took the same route several times, I had no sense of how long it took.)

An hour of nonstop twists and turns, climbs and descents. An hour to find your rhythm. An hour to reach that place of not thinking. No extraneous thoughts. No thoughts about the curve you just took, or the one coming up. Just ride. Lean angle and speed. Ride.


A group of riders enjoying a sprint through the mountains.


Tall, steep mountains = beautiful twisties!





After the exhilarating ride into town, we parked in front of the Hotel Madelena.










JT secured us a room while Andre (Shovel) and I chatted. Andre was repairing a broken hand guard with zip ties. He had already made a similar repair elsewhere on the Tiger and now was anxious for some liquid refreshment.

The Tiger gets whiskers? Or maybe those are ground feelers? Extreme lean angle detectors?



Sunlight hits the mountains that overlook the square.




Dao and Vinny enjoy camaraderie and dinner at The Colonial.
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Dos Semanas En Mexico - Oct2017

Mexico Paved - Oct2015

A Week in New Mexico - Oct2014

Last edited by SpiritAtBay; 11-07-2015 at 04:12 AM.
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:32 AM   #46
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

Gina, I finally came back to this thread and caught up. Glad JT made it through after what could have been much worse. And he finally stayed on road for a bit. Thanks for sharing the stories and pics of great people, places and twisties. Cheers
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Old 01-02-2016, 01:05 PM   #47
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

Thanks, Randy.
Here's some more.




We really enjoyed the roadside eateries for the food and the chance to talk to fellow diners.


She wasn't busy when we ate there so we had a nice conversation with this lady. When we passed back through town a few days later, she saw us and waved like we were long lost relatives.


I like the altars you see everywhere and tried to snap pix of them when I could.

(have already purchased a better camera that also will be easier to access on the move. So y'all are hereby forewarned; you'll have lots more pix to suffer through next time; Big Bend next month and MX in April. Yippee!)
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Old 01-02-2016, 02:09 PM   #48
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

And here we are in the Huasteca region. Lots of fruit, plants, flowers, local pottery for sale. Very pretty area.


Las Pozas, The Pools. The wildly indulgent creation of the eccentric English artist, Edward James.









The above photos taken by JT





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'09 Suzi DL650 (Quite possibly the best bike for me)
'00 Yami TTR250m (Dirty Sally)
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Dos Semanas En Mexico - Oct2017

Mexico Paved - Oct2015

A Week in New Mexico - Oct2014
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Old 01-02-2016, 06:01 PM   #49
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

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Every once in a while, someone posts an awesome ZRX pic on this forum and I think to my self, "Man, I wish I had one of those." Then I realize that I do have one, and it makes me very happy about life.

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Old 01-03-2016, 06:33 PM   #50
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

Just come across this thread today and read it. Great area of Mexico to explore. I use to go in at McAllen years back. Loved the pics. I know it's late on a camera suggestion but, I went with a few different cams and took many pics in the last 10 years of travel. Settled on the Canon G series. Reason why, I take about 80% of my travel pics on the roll. So I wanted to be able to get the camera out with my left hand, gloves on, turn it on, shoot a pic or 2 or a dozen. and get it back in the tank bag fast if coming up on the need to. Had most of my success shooting in the P mode or Speed modes.
Thanks for sharing with us. Love it.
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Old 01-03-2016, 07:28 PM   #51
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

Thanks for camera suggestion. I hope the new camera will be good for me for that very reason; it has a good zoom but still telescopes down to almost flush with the thumb grip. Hope it will be easy to use on the fly.

Thanks for kind words about the thread.
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Old 01-03-2016, 09:42 PM   #52
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

Must have missed it - what camera did you get?
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Old 01-03-2016, 10:01 PM   #53
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

It's a Fujifilm something or other. Enroute now.
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Old 01-04-2016, 10:35 AM   #54
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

I'm not famliar with that model...
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Old 01-05-2016, 08:15 PM   #55
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

I had a something or other and was very pleased with the pic quality

Looks like a very nice trip. Enjoying your report.
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Old 12-05-2017, 07:42 PM   #56
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

Another great report. Thank you.
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Old 12-07-2017, 02:19 AM   #57
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

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Another great report. Thank you.
Thank you!
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'09 Suzi DL650 (Quite possibly the best bike for me)
'00 Yami TTR250m (Dirty Sally)
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Old 12-07-2017, 07:35 AM   #58
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Re: MEXICO, PAVED. A Week of Riding Bliss

Great fotos along with the narrative, Bien hecho.
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