SL350 plugged oil filter

Never opened this SL350 up. Bought it about 3 or 4 years ago and sold my original SL350 I had for 30+ years. It was running so good and I had already rebuilt an engine for it that is sitting on the garage floor.

My last ride the engine was a little noisy and I changed the oil at about 150 miles. There had been some metal bits in the drain plug but not like this. So I adjusted the cam chain tensioner and started it after the oil change. The engine didn't want to idle and labored. Time to open the side and do a real oil change that means cleaning the oil slinger and screen below the oil pump.

I was shocked at the amount of metal in the slinger:





Below the oil pump:



After cleaning I over torqued the clutch springs and broke one of the studs on the clutch basket. Luckily, I have parted out a couple of SL350s and already had a replacement basket.



Put it back together and started it only to find the same sluggish engine. I feel I could probably continue to "fix" and tune the engine but since I already have another engine waiting to be installed, that is the route I am going. There is a good chance this engine is going to need complete disassembly to clean out all the bits and replace the tensioner.

So it's the holiday season and it's going to be awhile. Now I am CT90'ing and that ain't so bad.

I would be looking at the big end and main bearings, if it wont idle and is sluggish, it is usually those bearings that start to collapse and seize. If you have another engine then an engine swap is a much better choice (mechanically & financially!!), just don't forget to update the registration other wise a police stop & check might get interesting when the frame and engine numbers don't match the title!!

Gary

Compression tested at 148 and 153 tonight. That is decent, almost good. Plugs black and sooty but not wet.

Last night I started the engine removal. Pipes, clutch cover, air filters, and and pedals are off. Carbs come next.

Only SNAFU so far is the oversized clutch cable can't be removed from the sidecover. Likely it will snap the cable as I used a needle nose pliers to try to force it out. When I installed the clutch cable last year, I must have bent it a little to keep the cable connected. Nothing is easy when doing a major repair like an engine swap on a vintage bike.

This is a broken promise to myself to ride more and wrench less. Oh well.

I think you're really having more fun than you really wanted

Good luck with the engine swap and the rebuild. Get her going so we can do another Bluebonet ride next spring.

Ricks coming over tomorrow to help pull out the old engine. I will be ready to ride the Bluebonnet trails in 6 weeks or less and that is well before the Bluebonnets blossum.

The engine is ready but I'll likely do a carb rebuild as it has been 4 or 5 years since the last one.

We need to meet somewhere so that we can catch up on all those trails you have done this year. Dakotas to Big Bend, you been everywhere.

Engine is out, back is still intact thanks to help from TWTer Rick Miller TX. I would have completed the transplant but I want to look at the frame and bolts for problems.

Engine swap complete. Started on about the third kick but one just one cylinder. Changed to a new plug, still no go. Took the first plug and was holding it against the engine to ground it and check for spark and it jumped to the new plug and started hitting. After a few moments the cylinder started running just fine. I suspect this SL needs new coils.

But it's running and I am calling friends for some rides. LBJ Grasslands during the week next sunny day?... Nace?...Rick?....

SL350 said:

... I suspect this SL needs new coils. ...

Click to expand...

Bad plug wire or cap? If you haven't, you might swap wires to see if firing shifts to the "bad" cylinder.

Too late - it all works!