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holeshot/ cogent and valve

Joined
Apr 13, 2014
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Location
springfield, OR
Hi folks, I have an 07 1250s and I'm thinking about swapping out the oem springs for the cogent springs and gold valve as sold by Holeshot. Are you happy with the results? Worth the money, subjective I know. Thanks, Gary. :rider:
 
Well Gary,
I have not done so yet, but, I've not read any report of any ride whom has done this same thing not be very pleased. And, I really do plan on doing the same thing this next year as my suspension is really worn out. The only thing I've done to it is flush and change the oil. Sigh!
I really notice the difference in trashy road riding when I get off my KLR with near stock suspension (progressive springs in the front) and get on the bandit for the same roads.
 
Day and night difference!! The factory setup is "okay" at best with a 120 lb midget. Its basically THE biggest thing they cut corners on because the motor, etc. is SO amazing! :)
 
+1. Worth every penny. It totally transformed the handling and riding quality. Best customer service from Dale too.
 
Like so many stock bikes suspensions, they are over dampened and under sprung, as is the case with the 1250's suspension.

I installed the gold valves and straight wound springs in my forks way back in 08, shortly after installing the first remote reservoir rear shock I got from free from my friends at Works Performance, who used my then nearly new 07 to use for designing the new rear shock.

I ended up pulling the forks apart twice to tweak the valve stack shims, but finally got it where I wanted it, and I love the way my bike handles and rides.

So the bottom line is, if you plan on keeping your 1250 and riding it a lot, spend the money for the Race Tech valves and springs, and a better after market shock, but do yourself a favor and don't but a progressive suspension rear shock, as their shocks are crap IMHO.
 
There is a wealth of info on this subject in the archives here if you dig a little.
My 2 cents: I have been riding with the springs and gold valves (from dale walker) for about six months and I agree with others here that it was well worth it, better ride, handling and no more extreme fork dive under braking.
On a budget? Just go with just the springs, probably almost as good.
When I stripped the forks to change to gold valves I omitted to change the bushings (cause I didn't know about the bushings, 1st timer) and at 40k miles they were worn. Recommend ordering a set if you are going to do the job.
You will also need a #55 drill bit to drill a bleed hole in the gold valve. I have 2 extra, so PM me and I can mail them to 2 lucky souls.
 
There is a wealth of info on this subject in the archives here if you dig a little.
My 2 cents: I have been riding with the springs and gold valves (from dale walker) for about six months and I agree with others here that it was well worth it, better ride, handling and no more extreme fork dive under braking.
On a budget? Just go with just the springs, probably almost as good.
When I stripped the forks to change to gold valves I omitted to change the bushings (cause I didn't know about the bushings, 1st timer) and at 40k miles they were worn. Recommend ordering a set if you are going to do the job.
You will also need a #55 drill bit to drill a bleed hole in the gold valve. I have 2 extra, so PM me and I can mail them to 2 lucky souls.

I would like drill, PM sent. Thank you very much!
 
I would like drill, PM sent. Thank you very much!

I highly recommend that use the #55 drill in a drill press if possible, as it's such a small drill and very easy to break using an electric hand drill, and you don't want it breaking off in the valve body. I drilled mine on my mill, but if you do attempt to drill the holes using an electric hand drill, make sure that you leave just enough of the drill sticking out of the chuck.
 
I agree with the drill press, however, most don't have one. I used a cordless drill. No problem at all. The valve is made of brass and drills easy.
Incidentally, drill bit shouldn't be clamped all the way in the chuck because this defeats the purpose of the flexible shank part of the bit, which is designed to flex and bend and not break.
 
I agree with the drill press, however, most don't have one. I used a cordless drill. No problem at all. The valve is made of brass and drills easy.
Incidentally, drill bit shouldn't be clamped all the way in the chuck because this defeats the purpose of the flexible shank part of the bit, which is designed to flex and bend and not break.

No drill bit regardless of size is designed flex and bend, even though they will when not properly used, and flexing and bending is exactly what will cause a drill bit to break, especially a small one like a #55 drill bit, and I do know of what I speak, as I've been machining and fabricating parts out of all types of steel and aluminum using every type of machine shop equipment for over 44 years.

Ever here of stub length drill bits, their short length is to make the drill bit more rigid for drilling the hole straighter by reducing the flex in the bit, and any time you have a drill bit bending and flexing while your drill a hole, especially in soft material like brass, your going to end up with a much larger and out of round hole then you would if the drill was not flexing and bending, and if the size of the hole is critical for something like oil flow, this can really change what effect that over sizes hole has on the oil flow through it. I know this because I have also worked on lots of industrial hydraulic equipment which uses certain size holes and orifices in the control valves to control the flow of hydraulic oil through the valves in the systems, and changing the size of a hole even slightly can have a big effect on fluid flow and how the system operates. :trust:
 
well I was gonna pay a local shop to do the springs and valves but now it looks like its so complicated I don't know if I'll do anything now. certainly beyond my wrenching abilities or at least that's how I feel, but thank you all for the feedback.
 
well I was gonna pay a local shop to do the springs and valves but now it looks like its so complicated I don't know if I'll do anything now. certainly beyond my wrenching abilities or at least that's how I feel, but thank you all for the feedback.

Trust me, its not brain surgery, and is very easy to do even for a person with basic mechanical skills, as long as you take your time and have a factory service manual, and will be here to help you through the process if you run into any problems. :trust:
 
Springs and 5 wt oil would probably be enough. Fork brace is huge. The valves were the scariest part.
 
I finally got a good ride in after installing the gold valves in the forks.
First off a big THANK YOU to Super J for sending me the #55 drill.

Of the 3 mods to the front suspension I would rate this as #2 with fork springs #1 and fork brace third. Honestly the 1250 needs all 3 and for under $500 if you DIY, it transforms the handling and ride.
The valves do require a few measurement tools. You must have a torque wrench that is capable for 30 inch pounds. This is critical for compressing the valve stack to work properly. Also a micrometer or at least a digital caliper to measure the shim thickness, they vary as little as .002" (two thousandths of a inch). As MM stated a drill press should be used for drilling the hole in the valve. I also used a small center drill to give the tiny #55 bit a good starting point. I used a chunk of auto heater hose to put the alum. valve body in and clamped in a vice. A impact wrench is nice for breaking the cartridge bolt loose on the bottom of the fork leg and the valve shim bolt too. It really isn't a tough job and there are not many parts involved.

Every fork oil change I've done has shown the stock oil is always more contaminated. Probably a combo of internals wearing in and cheaper fluid.
Just flipping the forks and pumping them is not enough, there's a lot of crud in the bottom of the fork legs. I used contact cleaner spray to flush it out the bottom hole after pulling the cartridges. Spendy but leaves zero residue to contaminate the new oil. Once you get the compression valve out by removing the wire retainer in the bottom of the cartridge (I used small metal pick tool) you can also expose the rebound valve on the rod for cleaning. When reinstalling the compression valve with the new O ring make sure you have some oil on it as it's a tight fit. Cartridge forks tend to stay cleaner than the old dampening rod type but need cleaner fluid to keep working properly.

I ended up with 1.1 kg. springs - 4.650" spacers - 5 wt. Silcolene fork oil 120 mm from the top of the tubes (compressed with no spring).
C-35 gold valve shim stack - 3 1/2" lines showing on the pre-load adj.

I've been riding with just springs, a partial oil change and the fork brace for almost 10,000 miles
I rode it for over 150 miles with the valves installed and the difference in bump absorption, large and small, is very noticeable. I test rode new Motorcycles with USD forks the same day and Bandit felt just as compliant and even more controlled. It also has less chassis pitch under braking. Raising the fluid level also helps with the end of travel by not allowing as much compression (air compresses easier than fluid).
I can't wait for the roads to get cleaner and get the new tires scrubbed in to test it out in the twisty's.:twisted:
Disclaimer: If you do this and still have the stock shock you be forced into improving the rear suspension too. :-?
 
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