bigdon55
0
Quite possibly the Greatest Lightweight Adventure Travel Bike ever! 
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The DR/DRZ Thread
- Thread starter Marc B
- Start date
So after receiving the replacement tank I realized the previous fitment problem was my own. I had read everywhere that the tank fits just fine with radiator guards installed. This go around I realized the tank was butting up against the left hand radiator guard. So I had to cut the guard and grind it down smooth to get rid of any sharp edges for the tank to fit properly.
Everything fit perfect after that.....
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- Joined
- Apr 15, 2013
- Messages
- 1,299
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- Location
- Beeville
- First Name
- Bryan
- Last Name
- Hughes
My only advice is to go for machined rather than pressed links. Avoid the adjustable links like the plague. I have seen to may of those fail over the years. It just depends on how low you plan to go whether you really need a kickstand. 1"? ... probably not. 2" or more? ....probably.
When I first got my DRZ I wanted a lowering link. My friends talked me in to riding it for a few months first. I am glad they did. After a few months I was so used to it I did not even think about it.
I have a 29" inseam and I have never been able to flat foot any bike but a cruiser. So I have an advantage in that I have always leaned the bike over to one side and supported with one foot. I don't know anything else. If I spent my life flat footing both feet on every bike I had the DRZ probably would have unnerved me.
My suggestion.... Don't use lowering links. They are a band aid solution to the task.
Have the forks and shock internally lowered.
Unless suspension action and function are not a concern do to how you use the bike, in that case, slap on a lowering ling and go.
The new side stand is a good idea.. modify what you have or get something else. Other wise the bike will be standing straight up when on the stand and have a tendency to fall over.
Unfortunately I only have a 26" inseam. So like you I lean to the side on most bikes.
Quoting the previous owner "This bike started its life as the supermoto version but I've added the "S" (dirt) wheels and tires." When I bought it the "S" wheels were on it which I really didn't feel safe on.
I switched to the "SM" wheels and I have put just over 900 road miles on it. I would really like to switch back to the "S" wheels and do some dirt riding.
I know I can get a lower seat but thought I could save some money by starting with the lowering link. Now I'm not so sure.
I think your suggestion is great. I just missed it because I was responding to the other post and had to step away.
I am concerned about suspension action and function.
FYI - DRZ wheels and tires set for sale just posted in the for sale section of this forum. I will be going to RTBV rally in Whitney this weekend so if anyone wants them and is headed to the rally I can bring them along for a FTF Cash transaction. I am asking $450 for the set with used non-street legal tires currently mounted and a set of used death wings that I can throw in with the deal.
Odd DRZ Issue
Half the time I stand up on my pegs and get my butt off the seat the bike wants to die. It starts to sputter and lurch.
2012 DR-Z 400s w/ following mods
Any ideas on what to check?
Half the time I stand up on my pegs and get my butt off the seat the bike wants to die. It starts to sputter and lurch.
2012 DR-Z 400s w/ following mods
- OEM Carb Rejetted
- 3X3 mod
- Slip On Exhaust
Any ideas on what to check?
bigdon55
0
What Jeepman said!
Re: Odd DRZ Issue
Bypass or change foot position... but the switch will still activate in hard bumps, jumps or whoops so I'd suggest bypassing it in any case
Foot is hitting the kick stand, activation the safety switch
Bypass or change foot position... but the switch will still activate in hard bumps, jumps or whoops so I'd suggest bypassing it in any case
Re: Odd DRZ Issue
Thanks guys! This is the first thing that has made any sense. Come to think of it my new SIDI Adventure Rain boots have a more prominent heel than the last set. I first noticed on down hill slopes and that would bring my heel even farther down in the rear.
Foot is hitting the kick stand, activation the safety switch
Bypass or change foot position... but the switch will still activate in hard bumps, jumps or whoops so I'd suggest bypassing it in any case
Thanks guys! This is the first thing that has made any sense. Come to think of it my new SIDI Adventure Rain boots have a more prominent heel than the last set. I first noticed on down hill slopes and that would bring my heel even farther down in the rear.
OldTLSDoug
Forum Supporter
Hey Fellas, I have a rear shock with a broken compression adjuster. Anyone have a SM rear shock with an intact adjuster? Help me out fellas!
As you can see the screw is snapped off.
As you can see the screw is snapped off.
Hey Fellas, I have a rear shock with a broken compression adjuster. Anyone have a SM rear shock with an intact adjuster? Help me out fellas!
As you can see the screw is snapped off.
Doug
Two things one that part can be source for a shower shock just not for the DRC application
Second I'll look when I get home I think I still have one if so I'll PM you
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Bypassed the kickstand switch on my DRZ. I saw many very old posts about how to do this but none had pictures any longer so I figured I would go ahead and post a few.
This green doodad under the seat near the tank is what I need.
I disconnected it and pulled up enough cable to cut 3" from the connector. I figure that will make it easier for me to reconnect later if I need to.
Finished product soldered and shrink wrapped.
....and nicely tucked away.
Went ahead and removed the switch entirely as well.
This green doodad under the seat near the tank is what I need.
I disconnected it and pulled up enough cable to cut 3" from the connector. I figure that will make it easier for me to reconnect later if I need to.
Finished product soldered and shrink wrapped.
....and nicely tucked away.
Went ahead and removed the switch entirely as well.
OldTLSDoug
Forum Supporter
I pulled and jumpered all the relays on my DR-Z and added an electronic flasher. Got rid of clutch switch, kickstand switch and related interlocks. Downside, it is indeed quite a yeehaw the time or two it starts in gear with the clutch out. But I think I have that out of my system now and always pull in the clutch, to be sure...
- Joined
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Curious - what do you mean by "...jumpered all the relays..."
I built a set of headlights for mine and added relays for each light. Jumped the connector for the clutch to bypass that switch; wasn't one for my kickstand. Or was that the other way around? It's been awhile and CRS has raised its ugly head at times so I stand corrected if necessary.
Anyway, carry on...
OldTLSDoug
Forum Supporter
+1
I've had that happen many times with my size-12's, doesn't take much pressure to move the stand enough to activate the switch.
But still have my kill-switch. Don't want to do a left-hand turn high-side!
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Fellow DRZ ers if anyone has a lead on a stock E header pipe, please direct them to me or point me in their direction. I bought a used DRZ header on fleabay to replace my bent and dented stock E header and found out the hard way that the S model header is a few MM smaller in diameter. I did not remember that. If anyone has a complete exhaust for an E I would entertain that idea as well.
Also if anyone needs a freshly cleaned, non dented, derusted and painted header for an S, let me know!
I know, let the whipping begin!
Also if anyone needs a freshly cleaned, non dented, derusted and painted header for an S, let me know!
I know, let the whipping begin!
Hail,
What kit do you have in the CV carb?
What kit do you have in the CV carb?