I couldn't get rid of the vibes in the Daytona bar, so I bought a protaper 7/8 SE bar in honda mini bend (flat wrist, almost no sweep, and it is close to the OEM height).
The bar has very thick aluminum (5mm) sidewall, so the OEM suzuki bar ends won't work without modification. I am not a fan of removing material that's difficult to replace, so I opted to make my own bar end adapters. I got some ideas from other forums, and I wound up using 5/16 fuel line to replace the OEM rubber on the bar ends. I had to drill out the fuel line on the inside to slide the oem steel tube into it, then placed a washer at the end, and installed another piece of fuel line to act as compression fitting. The nut has a grip washer on it, so it can stay on the rubber without spinning free, much like OEM.
I had to add a thin layer of electrical tape to fill in the gap on the non-compressed fuel line, and once these were in, they weren't going anywhere.
Excuse the protaper foam and crossbar: I am leaving them on until I make sure I don't need to return or exchange the bar. Now, pics:
The bar has very thick aluminum (5mm) sidewall, so the OEM suzuki bar ends won't work without modification. I am not a fan of removing material that's difficult to replace, so I opted to make my own bar end adapters. I got some ideas from other forums, and I wound up using 5/16 fuel line to replace the OEM rubber on the bar ends. I had to drill out the fuel line on the inside to slide the oem steel tube into it, then placed a washer at the end, and installed another piece of fuel line to act as compression fitting. The nut has a grip washer on it, so it can stay on the rubber without spinning free, much like OEM.
I had to add a thin layer of electrical tape to fill in the gap on the non-compressed fuel line, and once these were in, they weren't going anywhere.
Excuse the protaper foam and crossbar: I am leaving them on until I make sure I don't need to return or exchange the bar. Now, pics: