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Stripped Pinch Bolt

TVgod

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Boerne, TX
Whoever last changed the front tire on my '98 Valkyrie tightened down the pinch bolts like they would never need to be removed again. I broke one hex tool trying to get the last one out. I bought a longer hex tool to get some leverage and stripped out the top of the bolt.

The bolts are recessed so I can't grab the outside of it. My current plan is to soak with penetrating oil for a few days then JB Weld a torx head socket into the stripped hole to see if I can get some leverage that way.

If anybody has another option, I'd appreciate hearing it.
 
Drill the head off, that will release tension on the threaded shank.
Heat, soak in penetration fluid, do that again several times. Let sit overnight.
Center punch the fastener, heat the body around the fastener A LOT, use a left hand drill bit and drill a hole 70-80% the diameter of the fastener, it may come out with just that. |If not you now have a nice clean hole for a spiral extractor. Heat, soak in penetration fluid, do that again several times. Let sit overnight. Heat again and use the extractor.
All of that is best done at a machine shop with the proper equipment. So if you can remove the triple clamp (or is it fork leg pinch bolts? ) and take just the part to a machine shop they will be able to more easily get it out before you butcher it up... after it may be too late to help and drilling it out and repairing with a thread repair coil or bushing may be the only way.
 
Had similar issue when I went to reseal a set of fork tubes. The allen head bolt than holds the cartridge and lower half together had the head rounded out.

I bought a set of extractors and I can't recall the brand name. Couldn't find in google space. I will look when I get home.

It's basically a slightly tapered square end that is driven into the bolt head. The opposite end is a standard 6 point socket head.

So once the square end is driven in and seated, you use a socket and ratchet to remove it.
Worked like a charm.

Seems like it was about $30 for a small set and $40 for a larger set.

If we were closer, you could just borrow mine.



Remembered ....

http://sockitout.com/

Worked for me when pulling the fork tube apart.
 
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Don't use any bolt extractor of any type, unless you completely drill through the existing bolt and almost to the size of the existing bolt.. They are not designed to remove a seized or over-tightened bolt like what you have. All you will end up with is a super-hardened extractor inside a stripped our bolt. At that point, it goes to the machine shop. Not good.

It is probably too late for you, but the easiest way to do this, if you can, is to pound in the next sized torx into the allen head with a hammer. It will make it's own way and will be very tight when done correctly. Do not move it once it is in. From there, you simply connect an impact wrench--something with some power, and it will spin right out. I have a lithium 1/2 inch impact that would have gotten that right out.

I am not contradicting the advice given by Mr. Marquez. I just have seen too many extractors broken off in bolts, that never had a prayer of working.
 
I am not contradicting the advice given by Mr. Marquez. I just have seen too many extractors broken off in bolts, that never had a prayer of working.

Your actually not contradicting..This was a over tightened fastener, not cross threaded with a mechanical locking action..\
Notice I said drill the head off? That releases all tension and clamp load... now it is just a threaded shank in a threaded hole, with some moderate friction likely.
Then I noted "drill a hole 70-80% the diameter of the fastener" just like you suggested..
We are on the same page

A: remove all clamp load FIRST.
B: mitigate friction between threaded fastener shank and the threaded hole with heat and penetration fluid.
C:drill the fastener shank to 70-80% shank diameter, as that allows some flex and helps to break the two component surfaces apart.
D: Shock is your friend if using a standard tool or tool bit to loosen the fastener but DO NOT use an impact driver or gun on a hardened extractor
 
if the bolt still has a head on it and you have just stripped it then there is a set from Irwin that is probably your best bet of getting it out with a minimum amount of drilling...

It's about 50 bucks but you can probably find a set that has fewer sizes for less, but then there is a chance you may have to drill up a size.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRG66/?tag=twowhetex-20

I have a set and to be fair they have saved my butt on more than one occasion. Also I have a set of Timesert bits and installer sets because on rare occasion they bolt has stripped out after king kong got done tightening it.
 
Good suggestions. Going to try the torx solution after a couple of days of PB Blaster applications. Thanks.
 
One other thing I thought of just now, you might try and find some of the Freeze off spray. It's made to kind of shock the bolt off. You spray it on for a few seconds and through whatever magic is in the bottle it will make the work area very cold and shock the fastener, sometimes enough to allow it to loosen. It also has a penetrant in it. I used it to get some of the rusty bolts on the front of my Jimmy off and I had so so results. Not as good as using the sawzall but it worked on a couple pieces I needed to keep.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Freeze-S...93696&wl11=online&wl12=48349513&wl13=&veh=sem
 
Good suggestions. Going to try the torx solution after a couple of days of PB Blaster applications. Thanks.

Make sure and pound the torx socket in all the way until it bottoms. Refrain from removing the torx socket to check your work. You will hear and feel when it is bottomed. Just the shock from knocking in the torx will do a bunch of good in getting the bolt to let go. Once it is bottomed hit it with a good air or electric impact. It will come out if the torx socket is driven in all the way and tight.
 
Also, might go without saying but do not re-use the bolt. Chances are it is stretched, much less having a messed up head (from the Torx)..
 
Success. Hit it with PB Blaster twice a day for four days. Hammered in a torx and loosened with a breaker bar. I was ready to still strain and barely get it loose on the first turn. In actually came out easily. Obviously the penetrating oil was the trick. I probably could have loosened it without pounding the torx in so far. Hard to know at this point. The important thing is that it worked!

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Thanks to all of you for all your input.
 
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Nice work. Glad you got it out. The shock of pounding in the torx did as much as the penetrant in getting it to let go.
 
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Yeah whoever had the bike or did the work before you probably never heard of a torque wrench. I live by them and have never ever had a problem.

Glad you were able to sort this one out. I'm sure it was very frustrating.

Dave.
 
I used to be one of those guys who professed to never need a torque wrench but then I finally figured I would give one a try and its kind of funny how you think tight enough can be so overtightened....

Especially on the smaller fasterners
 
a lot of times the action of pounding in the torx, or a extractor will actually shock it loose. You think that sucks though, when I got my Ls swap motor for my project Jimmy about 4 of the manifold bolts cracked off below the surface of the head. I was able to get 2 of them out with an EZ out but the third one royally screwed me and the ez out broke off in the bolt so I ended up getting a mig welder and because the heads were aluminum I was able to weld a nut on to the bolts that were left and slowly ease them out. Talk about stressing out.
 
Mitchntx Sockit tool works well, I bought some myself, so much tougher than an ez out, plus I can us them in my impact.
 
This has been very interesting. A lot of solutions that are great ideas and most of them work. I see that a different method solved the problem.
I have to go back to the Emarquez solution. First because he removed the load on the threads. Drill out the head. Second, by removing the head, taking the load off, left us with a countersunk shaft of the offending bolt. No need for a center punch, your left handed drill bit will pull that rascal out in a heartbeat.
A left hand drill bit set is an essential toll to have. RH
 
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Airplanes are devices that are intended to flumux mechanics with stuck fasteners. Mostly screws, but some bolts too. I used to tell my folks when they had trouble getting stuff loose to shoot it with some oil, let it sit, and go do something else. Those that followed the advice used a lot less drills, apex bits etc. These are folks that pull hundreds of weathered fasteners every inspection cycle. We didn't even get any of the good name brand penetrating oils. It doesn't always work and resorted to all of the other techniques when needed. It work often enough that penetrating oil is always the first thing I use. I will also let it sit if I can spare the time. Sometimes you don't have that luxury. I'm glad it worked out for you.
 
You can also make the world's best penetrating oil at home for next to nothing. Just mix a 50/50 blend of cheap ATF and acetone. If you really want to go nuts, get one of those sure-shot resuseable sprayers.

There's been numerous tests done (when I found out about this in college, it was in a collegiate engineering journal), and every time the ATF/Acetone mix comes out on top, requiring less torque to remove than other sprays for a small fraction of the cost.
 
You can also make the world's best penetrating oil at home for next to nothing. Just mix a 50/50 blend of cheap ATF and acetone. If you really want to go nuts, get one of those sure-shot resuseable sprayers.

There's been numerous tests done (when I found out about this in college, it was in a collegiate engineering journal), and every time the ATF/Acetone mix comes out on top, requiring less torque to remove than other sprays for a small fraction of the cost.

I second this. ATF/Acetone, wait, shock by tapping with a hammer, left hand drill.
 
I like the ATF/Acetone concoction too, although in practice I tend to grab whatever is handy.
 
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