Rox 2" Risers and New Brake lines

[treybrad]

Originally Posted by Tazman2

Perfect! Will order them ASAP! BTW what is your height, etc? Just curious if the Rox will be worth it for me $$$ wise!

I'm a pretty average sized guy. 5'11", about 160lb, 31-32" inseam.

My new Sargent seat is what really forced me to do something -- it has a nice pocket for my butt, but it was about an inch further back than I usually sit. I used to really hugging the tank with the stock seat, and I didn't have any complaints with the bars that way...

It'd be interesting geometrically if I could see what I've actually done from stock. The Sargent seat sits me further back, and it's a little taller than stock. I've compensated by getting the risers and bringing the bars up and back a bit. I bet I've just about cancelled out the two things and my body position is right about where it was with the stock seat/bars...

trey

[Tazman2]

Well when I 1st put my cheapo 1" inch up risers I had the stock seat and it helped. Then got the Sargent and don't think it changed much maybe I just didn't notice after all the excitement of the much more comfy seat. Dumb question though, with the adjustable Rox's how do you find a good spot!? Do you just sit straight up and adjust to roughly there or? BTW ordered those hex bolts already thanks a lot for that info!

[achesley]

Here is the ROX site. Check it out.

http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/ca...?subcat_id=268

[treybrad]

Originally Posted by Tazman2

Dumb question though, with the adjustable Rox's how do you find a good spot!? Do you just sit straight up and adjust to roughly there or? BTW ordered those hex bolts already thanks a lot for that info!

That's pretty much what I did. Adjusted them to where I thought they were comfy in the garage on the centerstand. After a couple of rides I decided to rotate them down a little bit to bring the bar a little lower, but more towards me -- that seems to be where my body likes them. The beauty of them is you can adjust however you like.

You'll like those bolts -- no more fumbling around for the screwdriver that fits exactly right

trey

[superspeed123]

Much more comfortable but more vibration on my bike after fixing rox risers.

[Mick]

Originally Posted by treybrad

Here are some pics of my nearly identical install, only I took the cheapskate option of only replacing the one short line on my ABS model.

Treybrad, I'm finally going to install Rox Risers on my 1250ABS and have a couple of questions:

.....How much longer is the (top) replacement brake line that stock?

.....Where did you get the the line? Did they come at a pre-cut size already made for the Bandit or did you have to measure your stock line, add "x" inches and order them custom made?

[Mick]

Andy & Treybrad,

Would either of you happen to remember exactly which model of 7/8", 2" riser you used? The Rox site has several.

A year or so ago someone on the forum told me that they used the "3R-P2SS" . When I just looked, what's on the site now is the 3R-P2SSM ( http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/ca...?parts_id=9948 ). The description mentions that the posts are longer than normal. In looking at their other 7/8", 2" risers, I see the 1R-P2SSN ( http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/ca...?parts_id=9688 ).

I'd rather not have an extra length of post sticking out if it's not needed. Which of these did you guys use if any?

[achesley]

Originally Posted by Mick

Andy & Treybrad,

Would either of you happen to remember exactly which model of 7/8", 2" riser you used? The Rox site has several.
Which of these did you guys use if any?

I used the second ones you have mentioned.
In looking at their other 7/8", 2" risers, I see the 1R-P2SSN ( http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/ca...?parts_id=9688 ).

With the Sargent seat I'm trying out that I bought lately, it almost feels like I need 3 or 4 inchers. LOL. The Corbin seat I have is 1" lower than stock and the Sargent is as high or higher. But, we're not yet decided on which seat is gonna be left on. Need more miles on the Sargent for that ruling.

[treybrad]

Originally Posted by Mick

Treybrad, I'm finally going to install Rox Risers on my 1250ABS and have a couple of questions:

.....How much longer is the (top) replacement brake line that stock?

.....Where did you get the the line? Did they come at a pre-cut size already made for the Bandit or did you have to measure your stock line, add "x" inches and order them custom made?

I got the line off Amazon via Motorcycle Superstore (shipping was cheaper with Amazon... ). This is what is in my confirmation email:

Streamline Universal Braided Stainless Steel Brake Line - 20"/--
Sold by: Motorcycle Superstore, Inc.
Condition: new
Quantity: 1
$35.99 each
Item subtotal: $35.99

and

Rox Speed FX 2in. Pivoting Riser for 7/8in. Handlbar - Natural Aluminum 1R-P2SSN

The brake line fit, no issues, but it probably could've been an inch shorter. I'd double check, but the bike is gone, that sounds about right though.

Originally Posted by achesley

With the Sargent seat I'm trying out that I bought lately, it almost feels like I need 3 or 4 inchers. LOL. The Corbin seat I have is 1" lower than stock and the Sargent is as high or higher. But, we're not yet decided on which seat is gonna be left on. Need more miles on the Sargent for that ruling.

You know, I didn't even think about the Corbin being lower, and the Sargent being a little taller than stock. I bet that did make a big difference for you. I went from a re-worked 'Spencer-ized' seat that was a little taller than stock to the Sargent, which was no big deal -- but I did buy the risers after I sent my original to Spencer...

trey

[Mick]

OK, I'm in the middle of installing the Rox 2" risers on my Bandit 1250 today and hit a snag. I could not figure out how one is supposed to tighten down the lower set of bolts much less set the torque on them so I did a google and found the following on adventure rider:

---------------------------------------------------------------
From:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=743703

"Push the risers forward, tighten the lower bolt, then pull them back into the desired position and tighten the upper bolt. I realize this is backwards from the factory directions, but it works fine."

AND

"And the clamps need to go down evenly (more or less). The front is all the way down and the back has a gap. What the previous poster said. Loosen up the front and rear bolts. Snug them evenly, then tighten the rear a little, loosen the front bolt. Pull your bars back to the desired position and finish off by tightening the front bolts. This way when everything is finally set and tight, the gaps between the front and rear end up being about the same. "

AND:

"Thank you Jim, I am looking forward to trying this!! My concern was that it'll be difficult to move the risers/bars when the small bolts are tight. I used a rubber mallet to move them into position initially and it was a challenge to get them to move evenly. I thought the bars would keep the risers straight/aligned when moving. Any suggestions on this dealing with this specific challenge as well?"

AND

"It wont be an issue. Get them just snug enough so you can move them with some effort. Alighn the bars where you want them, tighten up the ypper bolts holding the bars, then mark the position of the lower part where the riser meets the tripple tree. Then push the bars forward to snug down the rear bolts, you may not get them to full torque before you can no longer move the bars and that is OK. Then pull the bars/risers back into the marked position and tighten to spec. They wont move at all. I have installed these many times with no issues."
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

If anyone has a better way to torque these bolts down and get things lined up please chime in! Gonna take a break for lunch right now. Hopefully I'll get an answer before I start back to work. If not, hope I don't bugger it up. At any rate, an answer will help the next guy. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has had this question.

This picture illustrates the problem:

[hizzo3]

Get a fair set of Allen keys, and hack off 1/4-1/2 inch to suit. Clean the edges with a file. You will find these will help in many locations.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[Mick]

Got the risers installed and torqued down. I used the method mentioned where you get everything adjusted and lined up like you want it, then mark the position of the risers in the clamps. After doing that, remove the bars, position the risers just forward enough to get the be able to get an allen socket on the rearward lower bolt, torque that bolt down, then using a rubber mallet, force the riser rearward, back to the position that was marked. Once done, torque down the front and you're good to proceed.

I bought the brake line that was recommended by Treybrad. He's right, it could definitely be an inch or more shorter. It'll do the trick though.

Now I'm *almost* ready to ride. After washing it and rolling it back in the garage, I managed to drop the bike (didn't put the side stand down and forward enough)! My Renntec engine guards paid for themselves in full! The only damage was a broken clutch lever. Other than that not even a scratch to the body! Gonna run by Cyclegear tomorrow and pick up a replacement clutch lever and maybe THEN take a test ride.

[achesley]

enjoy!

[Mick]

Thought I'd post pics showing the newly installed 20" brake line to illustrate that it could have used a line that was about an inch or so shorter.








And one other thing. Like achesley, I cut off the little tab on the clutch fluid reservoir to allow the clutch line to rotate to a position where the hose wasn't kinked. Had to do the same thing on a VFR once when I installed Helibars. Here's a pic of that:

[Mick]

Bleeding:

I did not evacuate the fluid from the entire front brake system. All I did was empty the reservoir, then disconnect the hose at the manifold to let it drain. That way I was hopefully keeping as much air out of the system as possible.

After putting the new line on, I used a handy gadget I bought a few months back that allows me to bleed in reverse. I got it from White Horse Press (http://www.whitehorsegear.com/eze-bleeder ) . Here it is in action. As you can see, it's basically a syringe:

[Tazman2]

Kickstand not out all the way yeah....... Did that one week before vacation back in June! Hard bag a little scratched up (bought used anyways!), clutch lever broke and blinker went byebyes....