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Chain, Chain, Chain!

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Bines

Bines

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My chain is due for a change. What brands of chain and chain tools do y'all like?

I'm certainly pleased with the quality of chain Honda put on it. Just looking for opinions, and I don't have a chain tool.
 
2013 Honda NC700X
Red
With top box
:mrgreen:
 
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Get the chain tool, it's worth it.

Says the guy who doesn't have one but always borrows one. Oh wait, my bike has a shaft drive now. Anyway.

I always liked DID chains. OEM is usually an endless chain that doesn't require a special tool but many times requires disassembly of large portions of the bike. All depends on what you are comfortable doing and how much you want to spend.

These tips though.

1. Change it if it needs it, don't put it off.
2. No clip style master link. Rivet only.
 
Bines said:
My chain is due for a change. What brands of chain and chain tools do y'all like?

I'm certainly pleased with the quality of chain Honda put on it. Just looking for opinions, and I don't have a chain tool.
Click to expand...


Ebay from idaily
JT Drive Chains 520x114 Links X1R2 Heavy Duty Sealed X-ring Gold Chain

$50.47

Comes with a rivet master link and a clip master link.

Just put one on my 700x. I have used JT sprockets a long time but first time for chain.
 
Stockton Chain tool kit

Will break and rivet just about any MC chain

Don't remember where I got it but probably easy to find.
 
Neiko Chain Breaker Riveting Tool Kit | 13pc Set Cutting OHV Cam Drive ATV Motorcycle'

Walmart $18.00 Looks identical to the stockton for a whole lot less money.

The Ebay seller idaily probably has one if you search his store
 
Go with the best chain possible, you wont regret it. I personal have been using DID over the years and my last bike (ZX1100E) had 24K on the chain when I sold it and it was still in great shape. Don't forget the sprockets!
 
Second the recommendation on DID. Go to sprocket center.com as a good resource. It's always a good idea to replace the sprockets at the same time. Any sprocket wear will in turn shorten the lifespan of the new chain.

Not a difficult job, hardest part is breaking the old chain without ruining the chain breaker...:doh:

Dave.
 
More chain tools have been ruined with careful removal of the chain with the tool. It's going in the garbage people. There's other ways... ;)
 
:tab I like DID X-Ring chains, for dirt or street. I am notoriously bad about NOT lubing my chains, but I DO try to keep them clean and not rusty. They are lubed internally, hence the rings sealing in the grease. Keeping them clean preserves the rings and prolongs their life. I typically got about 20-24K miles from a chain using this method on my VFR 800s.

:tab I use the same routine for my KTM 530 EXC. Anything I might put on the chain to lube it will just allow dirt/grit to stick to the chain and act like sand paper on the rings. I keep the rust off and that is it.

:tab To totally blow a few head gaskets, I will admit that I use WD-40 to remove water from the chains and prevent rust, but not as a lube! I spray then immediately wipe off the excess. I usually do it after washing the bikes. If the chains get wet while riding, the water flings off so I don't worry about it.
 
Not sure what the manual says for Red Hondas, but for White BMWs the instructions is to remove the swing arm and lubricate the bearings while there. This may sound like a pain, but it is much easier than a chain breaker. Failing to follow this instruction caused me to have to do a last minute swing arm bearing replacement before a trip. The BMW chain fits without adjustment and the Honda chain may as well. Could be a little more expensive, but I'd pay an extra $20 not to have to mess with breaking and riveting a new chain. It's worth looking up in the manual.
 
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Best chain tool bar none is the RK tool.

P1010417.jpg
 
Ditto on Sprocket Center, that's were I got my stuff. I have the motion pro chain tool set for the last 20 years and has been flawless.
 
OldTLSDoug said:
Best chain tool bar none is the RK tool.

P1010417.jpg
Click to expand...

Other than the black handle, that looks almost exactly like the Motion Pro set I have.

To remove the old chain, I just Dremel the head off a link pin, use the tool to push it out, and the chain comes right off. I then use the tool to spread the head of the pins on the new master link. Very easy and simple to do.

A word of experience though. If you plan to remove sprockets, loosen then nut on the drive sprocket BEFORE removing the chain ;-) It might also help to have someone apply the rear brake while you are doing it. Same for when you tighten the nut on the new sprocket.
 
A word of experience though. If you plan to remove sprockets, loosen then nut on the drive sprocket BEFORE removing the chain It might also help to have someone apply the rear brake while you are doing it. Same for when you tighten the nut on the new sprocket.
__________________
Scott Friday

Yes, be sure you leave the chain in place until AFTER you loosen the front counter shaft sprocket bolt. Always have the bike in neutral, and rear brake applied so the rear wheel/chain assy can't turn when you put torque on the front sprocket nut. Putting force against your transmission gears can bend shifting forks inside the tranny. Same routine when tightening the front sprocket bolt; tranny in neutral, use rear brake to hold wheel and sprockets from turning.
 
Thanks, y'all. This will certainly be a diy job for me now. :)
 
If you're going to own a bike, own a chain tool. It pays for itself the first time you use it. All major brands are well made and have good alphabet o-rings. Tensile strength is the most important spec, maybe not as critical with your 700cc bike but generally the higher the number the lower the stretch and better the longevity. Then of course there's care and lubrication. I don't dare mention a spray can chain lube brand - we'll be hopelessly hijacked and here all day. Frequency and keeping the rollers clean and wet is key. I resisted getting an onboard oiler for almost a decade but now that I have one I'll never go back to the spray can. My 11,000# EK chain has 15,000 miles on it and my axle is still in the front of the slots. Zero stretch. I change the front sprocket every 10k or so too. 40k chain life with an oiler is not uncommon. Any drip and fling which is minimal is well worth it.
 
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