Cushion Link Loose

Hey guys/gals, i am doing some maint on the DRZ and got a ? regarding the rear lower cushion link. It was loose in the frame mounting tabs on removal and is till loose after reinstallation.
Circled area,

Is it supposed to have play for some reason? I can kinda see it if it was, but i can see the washers covering the dust seal move around in there.
I have considered buying a couple washers to space it out a bit if need, but if not, i will leaves it alone.
Thanks fam.
Snapps

*** it also appears to me the tabs are slightly bent in which tells me they are too wide for the part that fits in.
BUT, the parts fiche shows i have everything i need.


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No specific knowledge, but if there were supposed to be shims/spacers/washers in there and it was installed (re-installed?) without them in place, then honked down, that could bend the "ears." And if it was still too loose, might someone have just stuck some makeshift shims in?

If 'twere me, I'd dig into the parts fiche and service manual, find the specs on the shims, disassemble, mic' the shims, and see just what was going on. Maybe it's supposed to be loose (though I doubt it).

Could it be that the shims are just worn and need to be replaced? Could the "ears" of the linkage be worn?

When in doubt, R.T. F. M!

Garfey, all the washers and the spacers are all in place according to the diagrams. Dont know about any where to find proper thicknesses and lengths... :/
I mic'd it the best i could and got a 1.5mm difference between the two points.
End to end of the central spacer (sticks out a tad past the thrust washers)
And inside to inside of the mounting tabs.
All other washers and spacers look similar in appearance and condition. None of the others fit off like this one.
I know my harley's swing arm uses misalignment bushings for movement, but thats a swing arm not cushion link.. :/
Im thinking im going to just go with it and maybe order all new insides for the whole link. Its just in too dang good a shape to have things like that wore out to me. Not many miles or abuse.


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Know anyone else handy who has the same model bike so you can take a look and see if the tabs/ears look bent in? That could be helpful.

I Googled-up a parts list for a 2012 400S (don't know what year yours is, probably the same anyway) and it gives specs for the shims/thrust washers. Does that help any? If yours are in spec, and absent any signs of not-right-ness, I say torque it to spec and call it good.

2012 DRZ400S Rear Cushion Lever Parts Breakdown

Nice! No, bike bandit didnt have the specs. And i almost punched in motosport first, too.
I will check them later.
Thank you!

And yeah, i dont think they matter what year. But it could on certain things.
Its an 09


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Does every bearing on the linkage have the correct corresponding spacer going through it? Are there any chances of one of them being? Those spacers should be a pretty darn tight fit and if the ears are bending in I would certainly stop as that is a very bad sign if you ask me. Do not try to continue tightening them, as aluminum does not like to bend.

None are mixed up that i can tell. If they were, the only one that would fit is way too long. But its not to say the wrong one could not have been put in prior to my ownership.


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snapp600 said:

None are mixed up that i can tell. If they were, the only one that would fit is way too long. But its not to say the wrong one could not have been put in prior to my ownership.

Click to expand...

That is very odd. Hopefully someone with a DRZ can chime in with a little more detailed info for that particular bike. Of all of the suspensions I've ever messed with, I've never had any play whatsoever with the linkages. Those bushings are a very tight fit for the very purpose of supporting the mounting tabs.

Shoulder bolt right & nut is bottomed out on the bolt shoulder? You can see the link move slightly to each side but you are not talking 1/16 inch right. I'd expect .01 or .015 inch

You are talking minor side to side clearance, not diameter clearance of the parts right (all bushings, needle bearingsin place)

There should be some side to side clearance in the assembly, the admittedly few times I've had these assemblies apart I pack the needle bearings and ( lightly coat) the washer faces with waterproof grease

To some small extent there should be clearancce so the suspension is self aligning, you don't want it binding up when you hit a bump mid-corner when the swi g arm is already under side

A y body who has done dog bones will remember they swing freely

A total of about 0.0625 side clearance is normal.. so a little lateral movement of the suspension links. There should be NO vertical movement (slop) nor should you be able to angle or "twist" the link when mounted and tightened properly.

There are no "specs" for thrust washers and bearings.....and various aftermarket kits i've used end up with varying side clearances.
thrust washer vs torrington bearing and washer...
So tighten it all down to tq spec and make sure the only measured movement is a slight side to side and all is good.

Theres Erik! I was wondering if i could get you out of the wood works. If i get a chance to work on it today i will tighten down and go from there.
So are the thrust washers more or less just a guard for the dust seal? Keeping larger "dislodging" items away from it?
It seems they are all in a little compared to the spacer.

Thanks everyone for chiming in on this. Hope to conclude this soon and be on my way.
It never fails. I have a bunch of new goodies i want to put on and tear into it and find something not jiving. Ive been meaning to look into all the swing arm stuff anyhow.


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