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Bandit 1250 coolant bleeding procedure

B

bluebandit

Guest
I am in need of page ob-12 of the bandit 1250 service manaul. Mine which I purchased from Suzuki doesnt have the page in it. I need to bleed the coolant system and was looking for any particulars or different procedures from when I did my vfr 8oo. Any help would be greatly apreciated. I have just reinstalled the radiator and didnt know if there was an engine coolant plug to also drain the coolant fromthe block. Thanks in advance. Steve
 
Perhaps he realized that, even though he bought his Bandit in 2007, it's really an 06 model and... THERE'S NO COOLANT!
 
All kidding aside, why did this person ask for help and then not acknowledge said help? I'm starting to get bad vibes! He will be the one down the road wondering why no one will help him.
 
Don't take it personally. Maybe he figured it out on his own and didn't need the help anymore... (I know, a simple 'thank you' would have been nice!)
 
I would like this document you speak of very much! I finally found my radiator cap and it looks like I have to remove the fuel tank to get at it?
 
I am in need of page ob-12 of the bandit 1250 service manaul. Mine which I purchased from Suzuki doesnt have the page in it. I need to bleed the coolant system and was looking for any particulars or different procedures from when I did my vfr 8oo. Any help would be greatly apreciated. I have just reinstalled the radiator and didnt know if there was an engine coolant plug to also drain the coolant fromthe block. Thanks in advance. Steve

The coolant drain and change procedure actually starts is on page OB-13 and ends on page OB-14 on my factory service manual, and chaning the coolant is very easy to do, as I just did mine again recently when I pulled the radiator off so that I could finally silicone the fan shroud to get rid of the very loud buzzing it made because of how it mounts to the fan bracket.

I highly recommend everyone to purchase a factory service manual if you are planning on doing any kind of work on your bike. :rider:

I also made up a new recovery tank plug out of black Delrin to fix an inherent problem with the stock rubber plug.
IMG_3550.jpg


Here's the procedures for draining, filling and beeding the air from the cooling system.

Draining the coolant
Step 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand

Step 2. Remove the fuel tank.

Step 3. Remove the radiator cap

Step 3. Remove the sprocket cover, then loosen the hose clamp on the water pump inlet hose
(lower large hose), and pull the hose off of the water pump housing and drain engine coolant
into a drain pan.

Step 4. Flush the radiator with fresh water if necessary.

Step 5. Reconnect the water pump inlet hose to the water pump, and tighten the hose clamp.

Step 6. Proceed to filling and bleeding the cooling system



Filling and bleeding air from the cooling system
Step 1. Support the motorcycle upright with the center stand.

Step 2. Place a rag underneath the filler neck inlet, then slowly pour a 50/50 mixture of distilled
water and silicate free engine coolant up to the bottom of the filler neck inlet. Pouring the
coolant in slowly helps to keep from trapping air in the system.

Step 5. Move the bike off of the canter stand, and slowly rock the motorcycle, right and left at least 10
times to help bring any trapped air in the system up to the filler neck inlet, so it can vent out of
the cooling system.

Note: The 10mm hex flange bolt on the the face of the water pump housing cover, is a air bleed vent that
can also be used to help bleed air from the water pump.

Step 6. After bleeding the air out, if the coolant lever has dropped, add more coolant to bring the coolant
level back up to the bottom of the filler neck inlet.

Step 7. Install the gas tank and start the engine up and allow it to come up to temp, so that any air
trapped in the system can expel out the filler neck inlet.

Step 8. Check coolant level again, and if needed add more coolant to bring the coolant level up to the
bottom of the filler neck inlet.

Step 9. Repeat steps 6 and 7 until no air bleeds from the filler neck inlet.

Step 10. Install and tighten the radiator cap securely.

Step 11. After warming up and cooling down the engine several times, check the coolant level in the
recovery tank is at the full mark on the tank with the bike sitting on the side stand, and if
not, add coolant.
 
What a timely post. Got some new spark plugs yesterday. So next weekend Plug change, oil change, and coolent change.

Thanks for the detailed write up on the coolant change MM, can't be any harder than the F650
 
Darn Scott,
After reading these simple instructions, you're gonna make me get energetic enuff to finally change out my coolant after over 4 years and 55K+ miles. Multiply that by 1.05 and you have my actual millage on da Bandit due to speedohealer. ;-) Have a new set of plugs that need to be changed and a brand new air lift table to try out with the Bandit. It's already KLR tested.
 
Darn Scott,
After reading these simple instructions, you're gonna make me get energetic enuff to finally change out my coolant after over 4 years and 55K+ miles. Multiply that by 1.05 and you have my actual millage on da Bandit due to speedohealer. ;-) Have a new set of plugs that need to be changed and a brand new air lift table to try out with the Bandit. It's already KLR tested.

Thanks, but is it making you energetic enough to make you also install the block off plates. :lol2:
 
Thanks, but is it making you energetic enough to make you also install the block off plates. :lol2:

:lol2::lol2: Not sure on that. But, I still have them on the shelf, just incase! :lol2::lol2:
You can't believe how much faster and better handling my bandit is since I've lost 30 lbs. :trust:
 
If your Bandit has over 20K on it, and the front of your radiator is looking pretty dirty, and your planning on changing the coolant, I highly recommend removing the radiator which takes less than 10 minutes, as this allows you to properly flush out the fins of dead bugs and small rocks with water from the back side of the radiator, as well as straightening out any bent fins. Before I flushed out the fins on my radiator recently, I first sprayed the fins liberally with S100 cycle cleaner and let it loosen up all the crud, then I flushed out the fins with the hose.

Removing the radiator also allows you to do something else worthwhile, which is clean all 3 of the mounting points for the fan shroud, so that they can be filled in with silicone sealant, which gets rid of the awful buzzing that it makes, as it is a big source of noise, and to see just how much noise the fan shroud makes, just reach your hand in and tap it, and you'll be amazed first at just how loose it is, and how much noise it makes just tapping on it.

I could not believe how much quieter my bike was after I did this, not only when I first started it up in the garage, but also as I was riding as well.
 
Thanks, will go in that direction when I get the bike back on the lift. Need to do that before I take off in mid June for Iowa, Wyoming, Washington State and down.
 
Thanks for the post MM. Changed the coolant and did the silicone job on the fan shroud. Does seem smoother for sure.

BTW, I took both hoses off the water pump to get all the old coolant out. Not sure that was needed but can't hurt I guess.
 
Sorry to resurrect a old thread but. So you run the engine to temp with NO cap on correct? Just making sure! :mrgreen:
 
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