Rebuilding a 1993 CR125: help at every level

thrill-billy85 · Oct 26, 2015

"Aircraft remover"

It gels the paint up, and rinses it right off. DO NOT get it on your skin. It's very aggressive.

combsie · Nov 1, 2015

OK so here are the parts after I stripped them. As you can see there were some really tough to remove spots. Other than that it looks pretty good and I don't have large acid burns on my skin. I sort of like the engine stripped but do I need to paint it for rust protection?

Hopefully I can assemble the engine and get this bike running!!

thrill-billy85 · Nov 1, 2015

It's aluminum, it won't rust per sé.

I like to keep the two main cases bare, and powdercoat the side covers.

combsie · Nov 1, 2015

The stater side cover is a piece of plastic so I don't think I can powdercoat that. The transmission side could be done but I was wondering is this would be a stupid idea...([ame="http://www.amazon.com/Black-Carbon-Fiber-Exterior-Vinyl/dp/B00KMABQ2O/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1446441861&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=carbon+fiber+vinyl&psc=1"]Amazon.com: 3D Black Carbon Fiber Wrap Exterior Vinyl Sheet Decal JDM: Automotive[/ame]). They offer aftermarket covers that are metal and coated for about $90 but don't know if that's worth the investment.

Also a previous poster recommended that I strip the frame and get it powder coated. Would this be good idea and does anyone know how much that might cost?

combsie · Nov 1, 2015

Also when getting a chain does it matter if it has o-rings?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Renthal-R32...m35e4f50372:m:mws9-QbjtWA7wjECfbq-awA&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bikemaster-...ash=item51c55b5f1f:g:~RIAAMXQhpdR23ea&vxp=mtr

thrill-billy85 · Nov 2, 2015

Powdwrcoating a frame is about 200, and they've always stripped mine.

You're correct, can't powder coat the plastic ignition cover.

Don't vinyl wrap it though.... Maybe REAL carbon fiber?

You can use an o-ring cain, or a roller chain. Doesn't matter.

ed29 · Nov 2, 2015

I ran non-O ring chains on my dirtbikes since they always got a power washing before getting put away. Also I always lubed the chain once the bike was dry. There is a touch less drag without the O rings too.

combsie · Nov 7, 2015

Thanks for the help everyone! So here is today's festivities:

This was a very easy $30 considering I am going from black to Al: [ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/311134462018?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT"]Honda 1985 2001 CR500 CR500R Polished Stainless Engine Bolt Kit | eBay[/ame]

Well I only got the crank, transmission, and oil seals installed. I planned on closing the case but I noticed that there is a missing dowel pin. My brother helped me separate the case and assumed (I know) he packaged the pin. The local bike shop will have it in in 3-5 days...But everything is working well. The crank rotates smoothly and I can shift through all 6 gears. More to come later

MaxxTraxx · Nov 7, 2015

Looks great so far! I had my frame powder coated for around 250$. It went a long, long way to making my CR look new and complete again.

I always run O-ring chains, they don't stretch as much and seem to hold adjustments longer, not to mention they last longer than a standard roller chain.

I would put Boyseen clutch/ign covers on the bike, looks great and they are tougher than the oem plastic covers.

combsie · Jan 5, 2016

Sorry I haven't posted in a while. I busted a crank bolt (about an hour after I sent ThrillBilly his case splitter in the mail). That got me super frustrated...and a little embarrassed because I have broken so many bolts on this stupid engine following the torque specs from the manual. I talked to my local guy who is helping me and he told me that only follows the spec for the jug and head bolts. Everything else he just makes tight.

Other than that I got the cylinder back from the shop fitted to the piston and recoated. I also decided to get the frame powder coated and found a really good deal...hopefully this place works out. I will post pics later.

Thanks again for all the help.

thrill-billy85 · Jan 5, 2016

Thanks for the update!

ed29 · Jan 7, 2016

If you are busting multiple bolts at book torque I have two questions that you might ponder. First, are the threads either clean of any oil or dressed with the called for thread locker? Second, when was your torque wrench last calibrated? Thought of a third question while typing... Are you in the middle of the range give or take on the wrench?

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

combsie · Feb 3, 2016

To be honest I have never had the wrench calibrated and wouldn't know where to go to get that done. It's been a while but I think they were stripping when I was nearing the end of the range. The wrench is old and was free so I used it. It's a Snap-On so I thought it would be good but maybe I should get another. Do you trust the Harbor Freight wrenches?

Other than that while I've been waiting to get the motor back I started polishing some of the parts mainly because I shelled out and got the frame powder coated. I found this wire brush drill attachment at O'Reillys for $5.99 and it was so worth it. I think it looks pretty nice and am excited to see this thing put together:

thrill-billy85 · Feb 3, 2016

Okay, I'm really really diggin this build. This is my style. No bolt left untouched, nothing overlooked.

:clap:

chaissos · Feb 6, 2016

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIkg94hDswY"]Calibrating your torque wrenches at home - YouTube[/ame]

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-digital-torque-adapter-68283.html

Perfect? No. Close enough for just about all of us? Yep.

combsie · Feb 26, 2016

So I needed to do this. It seems every time I go to work on the engine some bolt breaks or more recently parts need to get replaced and sets me back another week.

In stead of building on the engine I put the frame together and she looks pretty good. Let see what else I can get done this weekend.

rpcraft · Feb 27, 2016

Nice touch on that tank but out of curiousity did you ever consider using Vinyl wrap instead? I'm not 100 % sure your epoxy is going to blend well with the outgassing from fuel. Just a thought, I'm asking as much as I am suggesting, and maybe you mentioned it already, I just have not read all the thread yet.

rpcraft · Feb 27, 2016

ed29 said:
I ran non-O ring chains on my dirtbikes since they always got a power washing before getting put away. Also I always lubed the chain once the bike was dry. There is a touch less drag without the O rings too.

I've always kind of heard the same Ed... Oring is ok for dirt but not really needed since the wear and tear can be a lot different due to the nature of cleaning. I also hear from a lot of folks if you are around sandy stuff a lot then its better to not lube much...

rpcraft · Feb 27, 2016

rpcraft said:
Nice touch on that tank but out of curiousity did you ever consider using Vinyl wrap instead? I'm not 100 % sure your epoxy is going to blend well with the outgassing from fuel. Just a thought, I'm asking as much as I am suggesting, and maybe you mentioned it already, I just have not read all the thread yet.

Never mind, just saw where you mentioned it was a cover... My mistake!! :giveup:

thrill-billy85 · Feb 27, 2016

rpcraft said:
Never mind, just saw where you mentioned it was a cover... My mistake!!

Yeah, that's my tank off my xr400, not combsie (the guy building this bike).

Indeed, it was a cover. It was rigid, and exactly only flexible enough to removr it without it breaking it... Assuming you even could break it.

Vinyl wrap though.....? I can assure you, with 100% certainty that it lasts about 15 minutes possibly less before it starts to bubble up and look like crap. Basically the reason why you said the epoxy won't adhere, goes for vinyl too.

RIT dye seems to work on Yamaha blue tanks if you're dying them black. I think Honda white would probably work too.

Honda red comes out purple

Suzuki yellow comes out brown

Kawasaki green comes out a really dark shade of green.

combsie · Feb 27, 2016

Thanks anyways. I'm hoping the plastics will cover most of the tank. And thanks for the advice on the chain. I need to pick one up today

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

combsie · Mar 6, 2016

So I started finishing the right side last night and I have a couple questions (as usual):

1. How are should it be to turn the HPP valve rod? When I put the case cover on and tried to hook up the valve rod to the top end I couldn't push it down. I needed to remove the cover and with just the cover, rod, and gear it was still really hard to move. Is that normal?

2. When I turn the engine I hear the idler gear on the kick starter clicking (slipping). Is that normal...?

ahhh lack of experience! but it's fun turning bolts and seeing all these gears work together

combsie · Jul 26, 2016

WOW its been a while since I updated!! Still working at it so here's what I'm doing now. I've mounted the engine(!!), put on brakes (need to rebuild the front), put on the rads with new hoses. This thing is almost ready to turn over but I'm have an issue with the clutch. If I shift into 1st, hold in the clutch, I cant spin the sprocket...I removed the clutch cover and I can see the pressure plate move out about 3/8" but I only see about 4 out of 7 plates move. I've read in other threads that sometimes a clutch will not engage until the engine is warm but I don't want to fill it up with oil then drain if that doesn't work. Am I doing this right? Advice and opinions welcome!

thrill-billy85 · Jul 27, 2016

That's normal.

Did you soak the plates in oil for 24hrs+?

Even if you did, I doubt you be able to swing the sprocket, with the clutch pulled, in first, by hand.

combsie · Jul 27, 2016

I didn't soak the plates...should I take them out and do that? I have the time. Either way I'm going to try to kick it over this weekend.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rebuilding a 1993 CR125: help at every level

0

0

Attachments

0

0

0

0

0

0

Attachments

0

0

0

0

0

Attachments

0

0

0

Attachments

0

0

0

0

0

0

Attachments

0

Attachments

0

0