One of the ladies on the LDRider list posted up a link to some photos of a cooling system she built. I thought it was pretty neat and asked for some details. The link to her photos is at the very bottom. She's getting ready to do a CC50 so she'll report back afterwards on how well it performed on the trip.
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 10:00:56 -0400
Cc:
ldrider@ibdone.org
Subject: Re: [LDRider] Evap Cooling on the cheap
Thank you.
The idea was modified from another rider's idea. (Ron)
1. The tubing is Silicone (very flexable, semi-rigid), not Nalgene (rigid,poor flexibility). Therefore very low risk of chaffing.
Found here >>>
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23884&catid=799&clickid=searchresults
57292 <http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=31565> The small tubing is Tygon? Sanitary Silicone Tubing 1/8" ID
x 1/4" OD with 1/16" Wall (bought in 10' sections) ($17.30)
57296 <http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=31569> The large tubing is Tygon? Sanitary Silicone Tubing 1/4" ID
x 3/8" OD with 1/16" Wall (bought in 10' sections) ($24.10)
One quick disconnect M/F set
64650 <http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=37290> *Acetal
Coupling Quick Disconnects *Acetal Shut Off Coupling In-Line Hose Barb 1/4"
ID ($4.82)
64660 <http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=37300> *Acetal
Coupling Quick Disconnects *Acetal Shut Off Inline HB Insert 1/4" ID ($4.95)
I don't recall where I got the "Y" connector, the 1/4" to 3/8" reducer, hand
pump with 1/4" fittings or the check valve just below the "Y". They were
ordered years ago for another project.
2. Pop-off: Yes. The distal end of the the small tubing does not have a zip
tie acting a hose clamp and will pop-off with a moderate easy pull.
3. The spacing of the holes is an indivual thing because my small frame girl
shoulders are not the same as larger people.
I placed them to be at mid-collar bone in front and mid-shoulder blade in
back.
4, You cannot drill or burn holes in silicone. They must be cut with a
razor. You'll need to practice, but fold the tubing tightly and nip a small
piece off. The hold should be 1/16" but not greater than 1/8" or most of the
water will dump out the two closest holes to the pump.
5. The lengths of tubing is also something you'll need to play with due to
body size, placement of water bladder, type of bike and where you want the
pump to be.
Running tubes down the sheves would just be a matter of adding "T"
connections and termanator plugs to the ends. However you'll run the risk of
not having enough pressure in the system due to the pressure dropping at
every hole along the path of flow.
I hope that helps and I will report back after the ride.
-Gwen
On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 3:34 PM, Brian Thorn <brianthorn@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > On Friday, July 15, 2011, Shogs K1100RS <shogsk1100rs@gmail.com> wrote:
> > I made this.
> >
> >
>
http://shoganai.smugmug.com/Other/Evap-Cooling-Shirt/18026719_Mq6Js8#1381871207_zVsGSGP