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Power for GPS?

Neat diagram. I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and redo my bandit's set up sometime soon. I forgot the GPS and Radar Detector on last week and in two days, battery to far down to start the bike. Sad is I have a relay for the set up , just never installed it.
 
This is a schematic I got online and works VERY well on my bike.

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/relay/relay-diagram-final.jpg

I used tied into the license plate lamp for switched power, and by using a terminal block, you can have several accessories connected, and only have to do the seet up once.

Nice diagram. If I was doing the wiring I would add an inline fuse for the relay coil[protects tail light wiring and possibly more]. my .02 YMMV
 
Nice diagram. If I was doing the wiring I would add an inline fuse for the relay coil[protects tail light wiring and possibly more]. my .02 YMMV

You could add it, but it's not reallty needed, you're already on on the return side of the wiring, even if you ground, you're not going to short it.
 
You could add it, but it's not reallty needed, you're already on on the return side of the wiring, even if you ground, you're not going to short it.

Note to self: Don't have BanditBob do any wiring for me:giveup:
 
This is a schematic I got online and works VERY well on my bike.

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/relay/relay-diagram-final.jpg

I used tied into the license plate lamp for switched power, and by using a terminal block, you can have several accessories connected, and only have to do the seet up once.

that's how I have my relay wired in except my switch is ground and has a fuse from the battery and taillight (OVERKILL!!!! RULES) . Works great. I have a fuse on every wire though just in case.
 
Nice diagram. If I was doing the wiring I would add an inline fuse for the relay coil[protects tail light wiring and possibly more]. my .02 YMMV

I have not went through the schemac but would think it's already protected by the same fuse that protects a possible short in the taillight circuit. I ran a few relay type switches on my old BMW's for 11 years and never had a problem burning out wiring even though I did short it out accidentally playing around with a tester once and blew the light fuse on my R1150Gs.
 
Yes, it's protected by the license plate light fuse. Of course, if you blow that one you don't know where the fault actually lies, and if there are multiple lights on that fuse you'll lose them all. I'd hate to lose my tail and brake light because of a short in my relay wiring. I think it's still advisable to protect that with a fuse, too, but certainly not mandatory.

The real fuse issue, AFAI am Concerned, is that lack of fuses on the individual circuits. To run a heated vest and heated gloves, the main fuse is going to need to be 10 to 15 amps. But your GPS and radar detector need to be protected by a much smaller fuse. Relying on a 15 amp fuse to protect the electronic devices is bad design.

Aside from that, if the in-line fuse to the battery blows, you have no way of knowing why. Is it a short between the battery and the relay, or between the relay and one of the 4 devices. Which one? The only way to tell is to disconnect them all, replace the fuse, and then add them back one at a time.

Each circuit coming off that distribution block should be protected by its own appropriately sized fuse.
 
Yes, it's protected by the license plate light fuse. Of course, if you blow that one you don't know where the fault actually lies, and if there are multiple lights on that fuse you'll lose them all. I'd hate to lose my tail and brake light because of a short in my relay wiring. I think it's still advisable to protect that with a fuse, too, but certainly not mandatory.

The real fuse issue, AFAI am Concerned, is that lack of fuses on the individual circuits. To run a heated vest and heated gloves, the main fuse is going to need to be 10 to 15 amps. But your GPS and radar detector need to be protected by a much smaller fuse. Relying on a 15 amp fuse to protect the electronic devices is bad design.

Aside from that, if the in-line fuse to the battery blows, you have no way of knowing why. Is it a short between the battery and the relay, or between the relay and one of the 4 devices. Which one? The only way to tell is to disconnect them all, replace the fuse, and then add them back one at a time.

Each circuit coming off that distribution block should be protected by its own appropriately sized fuse.
Thats why SM&P's dictate fusing all circuits thereby protecting not only the SOURCE, but ALL ASSOCIATED WIRING. my .02 YMMV
 
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Yes, it does suck to lose all lights on a dark and rainy night. Been there as I was riding old Harleys, Truimps and BSA in the 50's and 60's.
I was checking my wiring this morning while putting my centerstand back on the bike. I run all my wiring though plastic tubing, plus the insulation on the wires. Habit from the above days and working on drilling rigs as a mechanic/electrician lots of my years. (probably why my body is a wreck now LOL ) All is good after 40,000 miles. No chaffing or wear marks on anything.
My last Harley in '75 had circuit breakers. And, they would steady click till the short circuit was found. In fact, a lot of us back then bought a spare breaker and my short hunters out of them instead of eating up fuses.
 
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