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What Oil and Oil filter do you have in your Bandit?

I have always preferred the Fram Xtraguard direct replacement filters, paper mesh is much better in short run times than a metal mesh filter like a K&N as the pores are smaller. Sure, they clog easier, but I only tend to go about 1500-2000 miles between changes. Also, I have ALWAYS used Shell Rotella T oil in my bikes.... Have been using it for nearly 10 years when in the last year or so they finally put a motorcycle application on the label. :sun:
 
Oil threads.... heeeerrre we go.....:giveup:

Ooooohhhhh, how I love oil threads! And tire threads! Those are my two favorite forum subjects! There's more squabbling between the interested parties than "negotiated" divorce settlements! :lol2:

Here is my 2¢ worth: Motul 5100 is bad, at least for this motor it is. My Aprilia is happiest with it, but the Bandit motor isn't. Turned the gearbox into an irritating, clunky pain in the posterior. I'm trying Agip Tec 4T next because I have it. I'll let you know.

Hi-Flo filters. Fram sucks! They used to be good, I wonder what happened.
 
for the last 4 oil changes on the drz ~ 4000 miles between it has been Shell rotella and a single scott laser cut reueseable filter.
 
All I'm going to say about the oil I run in my Bandit is that it comes in a plastic container, is liquid and is quite slippery. :lol2:
 
All I'm going to say about the oil I run in my Bandit is that it comes in a plastic container, is liquid and is quite slippery. :lol2:

That's very interesting. I heard on another forum that oil that comes in a metal container is better for certain types of engines....... We should debate that, then talk about chain lubing while we're at it!!!!!!

JK :doh:

I guess if I had two identical Bandits running two different oils and I rode them exactly the same and kept them both for 150,000 miles, I'd probably notice a difference. But...........
 
I usually go with 10w-40 Valvoline from autozone (the one with a picture of a motorcycle on front). I've used various filters, but I'm usually able to find a hi-flow filtro one. Right now I have an emgo on there. This is on an air-cooled bandit, btw.
 
Blue Streak: I'm interested to to hear more about that first paper you mentioned. If I'm understanding correctly, this paper is supposed to say that an oil that's been used for 50 hours cuts wear by a a factor of 10? I tried to find the paper online, and all I could get for free was the abstract, which just mentioned that they also compared long drain oil from fleet vehicles. Anyway, would you mind sharing some specifics about this wear rate decrease? I'm interested in seeing if their test methods accurately replicate something happening in an engine. For example, if they did the test at room temperature, there may or may not have been a protective film present that wouldn't show up at normal engine temperatures. Or if they had their test rig set up to reciprocate somewhat slowly, the test samples would be in a boundary lubrication regime, and the decrease in wear rate may be magnified. (It's hard to make a bench test to accurately predict wear trends in an engine.) I'd like to see if it'd be reasonable to apply their conclusions to an actual engine.
 
I've used the valvoline before...Seemed to work well....The clutch is very grabby with it..Some may like that and some may not...I kind of liked it.
 
I'm afraid I don't currently have access to the full paper. An acquaintance who worked in the oil industry did have a copy that I read a while back. I think the full text is only available to members of the SAE.

I'm no petroleum engineer, but my recollection of it is that it was thorough, and according to the guy who lent me the article well respected in the industry. My understanding is that oil manufacturers took it seriously.
 
Only the best oil, but stock filter. 5W-40 winter and 10W-50 in summer. It is a bit costly but oh well.

Mark
 

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So, Twinkie........

What's up with Agip? I am really interested. I run Mobil 1 Racing - and it works great.
 
So, Twinkie........

What's up with Agip? I am really interested. I run Mobil 1 Racing - and it works great.

The Agip version I have is recommended by Aprilia for the Falco. It works great in the Rotax lump, but the cheapest method of buying it is from the US distributor by the case. Normally I find it for $10.99 per litre retail, but by the case it runs $8.60 with shipping. So, if you can afford paying for three (or so) oil changes at one time...

I have also switched to the DuPont Teflon Multi-Use for the chain. And the chain makes quite the racket at the counter shaft sprocket. This the day after applying it to the chain. I wasn't expecting that.

Right now, the Bandit is the stepchild that gets the hand-me-downs. When it comes to chemicals and lubricants that is. Although I'm thinking of using the Castrol semi-synth the dealer recommended for the next Bandit oil change. All in the name of science. :brainsnap

Some brands (Motorex) I just will not try, even as a one time thing, because they are just too :eek2: expensive.
 
I run Dupont Teflon lube on my Bandit chain and it is clean, smooth and quiet. Do you have some bad links or an alignment problem??
 
I've also not noticed any issues with the chain using the Teflon lube.

As for oil, I'm currently running Rotella T6 5W-40. It's fairly cheap, it works well, and it's JASO MA certified.

Were money no object, I'd run Motul 300V. In my ST, it turned a really clunky gearbox into a smooth shifting one. And it smells good, too. ;)
 
Long Haul diesel engines are very different beasts than motorcycle engines. Max torque and HP are generally found between 1500 and 2000 rpm, with redlines not much higher. Oil capacity is huge: think 20 quarts or more. And light weight is not a design consideration: the engine alone may weigh more than 3000 lbs. All the parts are heavy duty, designed for maximum life. And they spend most of their life running at relatively constant rpm, not accelerating and decelerating like a bike engine.

To try to extrapolate from truck use to motorcycle use is meaningless.

That said, there's no doubt that keeping your oil clean is a good thing. And most water cooled engines can go well beyond manufacturers recommendations for OCIs, especially with synthetic. If you look at some of the online sites that discuss oil and UOAs (BITOG) is one of the largest: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/ ) you'll see people routinely getting 10K OCIs without any undue wear on the engine or the oil, and as much as 15 to 20K with a filter change halfway through.
 
I use the K&N oil filter. It has the 17mm nut on the end - very easy to tighten / lossen. $15 at cycle gear - Amazon has it for $11.

Oil - I used the Suzuki racing 10w-40 semi synthetic. I bought it by the case. I wen to buy a case Friday and it appers Suzuki does not make it anymore. I bought the regular suzuki 10w-40 for $59 (case of 12). I generally change my oil at about 5000 miles. I never ride in dirt or very dusty conditions.

Do you change the filter every time ? My brother will change it every other time, but he does not extend his time between oil changes.
 
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