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THE TWTex XR400 Thread.
- Thread starter thrill-billy85
- Start date
Shoot, I've got a brand new XRs Only Mikuni TM36, pumper carb. I do like the FCRs, but some of the older slant body, and factory 37's and 39's suck having. There's no replacement o-rings for the middle section of them.
Okay, I've spent the entire day researching various things for gas tank refinishing.
My verdict- NOTHING. There is absolutely nothing anyone has done with 100% success. The big problem is gas fumes empregnating the pores in the plastic. If this could be stopped, then sky is the limit.
Caswell sells a product they swear works. My findings is that it only works about 50% of the time on NEW tanks that've never seen gas.
Rit dye- this apparently works to make Yamaha blue, and white tanks black. Yellow tanks end up dark brown, red tanks end up dark plum, and I couldn't find anything on kawi tanks.
New up is the tank covers.... I said were trying to make the bike look good. Someone find be a fabric tank cover that LOOKS GOOD, and not gaudy, I'll buy it
Then---- I stumbled across the carbon fiber tank overlays from light speed....these are available for newer ('09+) MX bikes only, where only a small part is visible. Further research finds a few folks that have applied CF directly to their tanks, one of which has not been used, so that too may be an option, but I doubt it. I think it'll just delaminate and fall off.
So back to the CF skins.... This is something I can do. Not just for my tank, but others.
Obviously I've gotta guinea pig this first, but initial research, and my ability to do stuff, I think this is a go.
Basically it'll be a one piece cover that covers the top, sides, and wraps around the bottom and front. It'll have a hole in the top for the filler neck, as well as a hole in the spine for the seat stay. It will be removable, and held in place with thin Velcro, or for a more secure hold, 3m double sided tape. I'm pretty confident it'll stay in place, being that the tank its to be used on will be used as the mould. The skin could be cleared to hold the carbon fiber look, or painted to anyone's taste. Its a completely separate piece from the tank, therefore impervious to escaping fumes.
I think if it were to be painted, carbon fiber would still be the right choice, as it won't shatter in a bad crash.
Disclaimer- this post is to determine interest in such a product. If a good enough interest is seen, could be available for purchase, (at which time I'll be paying for a vendor's account here)
Preliminary cost estimates are around $150 plus shipping. It'd be one of those, send me your tank, and the dinero, and in whatever given time, I send you back your tank, tank skin, finished however you'd like. This would be a paintable surface, and could be finished with automotive grade paints impervious to fuels. Graphics can also be applied under the clear.
Here's a pic of a yz tank I painted with automotive paint, graphics under the clear
My verdict- NOTHING. There is absolutely nothing anyone has done with 100% success. The big problem is gas fumes empregnating the pores in the plastic. If this could be stopped, then sky is the limit.
Caswell sells a product they swear works. My findings is that it only works about 50% of the time on NEW tanks that've never seen gas.
Rit dye- this apparently works to make Yamaha blue, and white tanks black. Yellow tanks end up dark brown, red tanks end up dark plum, and I couldn't find anything on kawi tanks.
New up is the tank covers.... I said were trying to make the bike look good. Someone find be a fabric tank cover that LOOKS GOOD, and not gaudy, I'll buy it
Then---- I stumbled across the carbon fiber tank overlays from light speed....these are available for newer ('09+) MX bikes only, where only a small part is visible. Further research finds a few folks that have applied CF directly to their tanks, one of which has not been used, so that too may be an option, but I doubt it. I think it'll just delaminate and fall off.
So back to the CF skins.... This is something I can do. Not just for my tank, but others.
Obviously I've gotta guinea pig this first, but initial research, and my ability to do stuff, I think this is a go.
Basically it'll be a one piece cover that covers the top, sides, and wraps around the bottom and front. It'll have a hole in the top for the filler neck, as well as a hole in the spine for the seat stay. It will be removable, and held in place with thin Velcro, or for a more secure hold, 3m double sided tape. I'm pretty confident it'll stay in place, being that the tank its to be used on will be used as the mould. The skin could be cleared to hold the carbon fiber look, or painted to anyone's taste. Its a completely separate piece from the tank, therefore impervious to escaping fumes.
I think if it were to be painted, carbon fiber would still be the right choice, as it won't shatter in a bad crash.
Disclaimer- this post is to determine interest in such a product. If a good enough interest is seen, could be available for purchase, (at which time I'll be paying for a vendor's account here)
Preliminary cost estimates are around $150 plus shipping. It'd be one of those, send me your tank, and the dinero, and in whatever given time, I send you back your tank, tank skin, finished however you'd like. This would be a paintable surface, and could be finished with automotive grade paints impervious to fuels. Graphics can also be applied under the clear.
Here's a pic of a yz tank I painted with automotive paint, graphics under the clear
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Pardon the interruption from the less glamorous sister!
Just got back from Big Bend where the XR & I got in a ton of dirt miles, got wet, got muddy, got dry and then got wet again. Through it all the bike performed like a champ, 1st kick starting not a single sputter even in torrential downpours and that tractor-like pull that gets ham-fisted newbs like me out of trouble on a regular basis.
I love this bike
Notice already missing rear shark fin & soon to be missing license plate! All I can say about that is there's no line at the Presidio DMV!
Just got back from Big Bend where the XR & I got in a ton of dirt miles, got wet, got muddy, got dry and then got wet again. Through it all the bike performed like a champ, 1st kick starting not a single sputter even in torrential downpours and that tractor-like pull that gets ham-fisted newbs like me out of trouble on a regular basis.
I love this bike
Notice already missing rear shark fin & soon to be missing license plate! All I can say about that is there's no line at the Presidio DMV!
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Needs a bigger gas tank. I had to cut off the last few miles of the Challange as I hit reserve. Probably going to go with the IMS 4 gal but opinions welcomed.
I have IMS 4s on both my XR4 and XR650, both are about 8 years old and are holding up just fine.
I had an IMS tank on my old DRZ. twas junky. Really brittle.
This site is good-
http://justgastanks.com/
This site is good-
http://justgastanks.com/
Last edited:
ed29
0
- Joined
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- Ed
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- Hegarty
Never had a bad IMS tank. The one on my KLR has suffered extreme abuse and keeps doing its job. YMMV.
- Joined
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- Cleburne
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- Leon
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- Hogan
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2004
- Messages
- 12,160
- Reaction score
- 1,393
- Location
- Cleburne
- First Name
- Leon
- Last Name
- Hogan
yep pretty engine, pretty wrapped tank, its a trailer queen now!
Man, I can't wait till I'm "done"... I'm gonna find the sloppiest **** mud hole around and plow through it.
I'll show YOU frenzy
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2004
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- Leon
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- Hogan
Man, I can't wait till I'm "done"... I'm gonna find the sloppiest **** mud hole around and plow through it.
I'll show YOU frenzy
you are going to run the bike on the trailer through a mud hole?
How did I never see this? Subscribed.
Mudholes are just convenient places to take a break without having to put stand down.
Mudholes are just convenient places to take a break without having to put stand down.
you are going to run the bike on the trailer through a mud hole?
**** right! And enclosed, climate controlled trailer!
Well stay tuned- next up is me making the first (of hopefully many) Carbon Fiber 'Tank-Skinz'
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2008
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- 5,825
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- RIO DELL, CA
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- Niebel
**** right! And enclosed, climate controlled trailer!
Well stay tuned- next up is me making the first (of hopefully many) Carbon Fiber 'Tank-Skinz'
Nothin' like a little risqueness in the thread!
For real? Did you buy it like that?
"I love the reliability of auto cam chain tensioners..."
-No one, ever.
Luckily the ACCT design allows for a quick, and cheap conversion. About $2 in hardware, and 10 minutes
Here's how-
Remove ACCT, and the Phillips screw on the back
Remove snap ring holding it all together
Pull out the guts
Remove the adjuster screw, and flat washer
Grab the end of the coil spring and pull it out. (Mine was already bent, and liable to fail)
This just comes apart
Clean the oil off everything and put a dab of jb weld on the adjuster bolt
Screw it all the way onto the adjuster, wipe the pookies away
Put the new adjuster back into the housing, and re-snap ring that sucker. Make sure you leave out the barrel and washer.
Next, take an M6x35 (I THINK the length is 35mm) and slide a washer, and a flange but on it, and screw it in! Bada a bing, bada a boom! With the tensioner all the way extended, the bolt has maybe 1 more thread left to turn. Perfect.
Just a tiny bit of space left under the washer.
Finished product. Cheap insurance.
-No one, ever.
Luckily the ACCT design allows for a quick, and cheap conversion. About $2 in hardware, and 10 minutes
Here's how-
Remove ACCT, and the Phillips screw on the back
Remove snap ring holding it all together
Pull out the guts
Remove the adjuster screw, and flat washer
Grab the end of the coil spring and pull it out. (Mine was already bent, and liable to fail)
This just comes apart
Clean the oil off everything and put a dab of jb weld on the adjuster bolt
Screw it all the way onto the adjuster, wipe the pookies away
Put the new adjuster back into the housing, and re-snap ring that sucker. Make sure you leave out the barrel and washer.
Next, take an M6x35 (I THINK the length is 35mm) and slide a washer, and a flange but on it, and screw it in! Bada a bing, bada a boom! With the tensioner all the way extended, the bolt has maybe 1 more thread left to turn. Perfect.
Just a tiny bit of space left under the washer.
Finished product. Cheap insurance.
I am definitely in need
On its way!!! The carbon fabric shipped today, and I found a composites supplier locally. I cannot friggin wait to see how its gonna go!!
This is the idea, but will cover the sides and wrap under a bit
Also refinished the headlight. The white number palte part will probably get another wet sand, and final coat, before clear
Last edited:
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2004
- Messages
- 12,160
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- Cleburne
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- Leon
- Last Name
- Hogan
Well? How's it going?
I got an update coming. It was a slow weekend, and weather in the north has delayed parts delivery (was supposed to get today)
Okay, so first things first.... Was nobody gonna tell me I had the shock in backwards. Lol. The rezzy is supposed to be in the other side. Lol
Anyways, I cleaned up the front brake. Both the master, and caliper, as well as the line, and all the little holders on the fork. Before I go any further, I need to tell y'all, my hands stayed REALLY dirty all weekend, and I really didn't ever stop to mess with my phone. So.. Sorry.
This is always fun. If y'all don't already have one, go buy an impact driver. They're essential.
I got this pic of the master staged on the bars. I went back with stainless Allen machine screws. Other that those odd-ball factory only fasteners, EVERYTHING on this bike is stainless.
Next I moved on to to wiring up a 220 for my welder. Super easy as it turns out there was already a drop plug with (your guess is as good as mine) a 110v hot to each side of just a regular plug. Geez, talk about a fire hazard. Anyways, it made it easier, as I didn't have to actually run or pull any wires.
Next up I started in the exhaust. I HATE how the stock exhaust looks, so I decided to have at it and make a shorty can like I did in my old drz400. Before all the naysayers get all fired up, I'll just say this- yeah, its gonna be loud. But also, yes, on the Drz, it made a very noticeable difference mid-top.
First, cut the end off
Next, cut out enough to creakt the desired length.
Next, weld the end with the treaded holes back onto the can. I move around alot. Little here; little there... Keeps excessive heat and warpage down
My ugly welds. (I haven't touched my welded in a few years)
I use a 4 1/2" stone grinder to take care of the heavy stuff, then 120gt wheel.
After that, you're left with little dimples from welding. Normally in an autobody application, those are bondo'd.
For a high temp application, I use JBweld.
Smooth it down, sand it and spray it to see how it all looks. If bondo was made in high temp choices, it'd be perfect. Its far from it, but whatevs
Mock-up on bike
Close enough.
Anyways, I cleaned up the front brake. Both the master, and caliper, as well as the line, and all the little holders on the fork. Before I go any further, I need to tell y'all, my hands stayed REALLY dirty all weekend, and I really didn't ever stop to mess with my phone. So.. Sorry.
This is always fun. If y'all don't already have one, go buy an impact driver. They're essential.
I got this pic of the master staged on the bars. I went back with stainless Allen machine screws. Other that those odd-ball factory only fasteners, EVERYTHING on this bike is stainless.
Next I moved on to to wiring up a 220 for my welder. Super easy as it turns out there was already a drop plug with (your guess is as good as mine) a 110v hot to each side of just a regular plug. Geez, talk about a fire hazard. Anyways, it made it easier, as I didn't have to actually run or pull any wires.
Next up I started in the exhaust. I HATE how the stock exhaust looks, so I decided to have at it and make a shorty can like I did in my old drz400. Before all the naysayers get all fired up, I'll just say this- yeah, its gonna be loud. But also, yes, on the Drz, it made a very noticeable difference mid-top.
First, cut the end off
Next, cut out enough to creakt the desired length.
Next, weld the end with the treaded holes back onto the can. I move around alot. Little here; little there... Keeps excessive heat and warpage down
My ugly welds. (I haven't touched my welded in a few years)
I use a 4 1/2" stone grinder to take care of the heavy stuff, then 120gt wheel.
After that, you're left with little dimples from welding. Normally in an autobody application, those are bondo'd.
For a high temp application, I use JBweld.
Smooth it down, sand it and spray it to see how it all looks. If bondo was made in high temp choices, it'd be perfect. Its far from it, but whatevs
Mock-up on bike
Close enough.
Last edited:
chaissos
0
Close enough? I didn't figure for this queen anything would just be "close enough". lol
Lookin' good...
Lookin' good...