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KLR rotor puller

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K

klantz

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Hey Everybody! I am not a regular on here but I've also been out of the game a while. I just picked up a KLR and am doing the waterpump shaft replacement jobber. I know, lucky me right. I was wondering if anyone had a KLR rotor puller laying around in San Antonio. I can come pick it up or you can drop it off, I just figured instead of ordering one and waiting, I'd ask on here. I'll see if I can find a pic of the bike and post it up. Thanks in advance!

-Klantz
 
What year KLR?

Better if you know what size you need?

I likely have one... but am a bit too far to save you anything.
 
That would probably be helpful. It's a 2000 KLR. The puller I need is the standard 22 x 1.5mm thread bolt with a 19mm head(edit I guess it doesn't matter if its a 19 mm head). I was going to call Ace Bolt and Supply tomorrow.

-K

IMG_0281.jpg
 
Well I have one... but am a ways away.. and yes, a standard M22x1.5 bolt works on that flywheel.. nothing fancy is needed.

If your bolt place does not pan out, go to your local Auto supply store and buy a M22x1.5 Dorman brand replacement drain plug.
 
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Thanks! That'll work, auto parts store is a lot closer. I called and they have a couple in stock. I'll be sure to post up when I get this thing running.
 
9y9a9yza.jpg


Well that didn't go as planned... Called eagle mike and he's sending one of his pullers. Looks like I'm back to my original plan of waiting.


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klantz said:
9y9a9yza.jpg


Well that didn't go as planned... Called eagle mike and he's sending one of his pullers. Looks like I'm back to my original plan of waiting.


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I've used those plugs literally many of dozens of times. :giveup:

Just yesterday as a matter of fact on two VTR1000f flywheels after i got done cutting them down... And I've recommended this "tool" short cut to dozens of people and never heard an issue.

I apologize for the bad advice.. I've just never seen one do that before. . Must be something in the taper design for that motor that causes the KLR rotors to stick really hard.. The net is full of stories about stripped KLR rotor pullers (a misnomer .. it's really a rotor pusher) Of which i only found because you tried my suggestion and had issue, so I went looking.

Sorry you had to have that happen for me to become smarter.. LOL


Did you use a beaker bar or an impact?
I only use air tools for jobs like that, and the shock and impact may allow the tool to work for me, where slowly turning it with a socket wrench or bar may not.

Happy to loan you a Motion pro m22 flywheel remover if you need.:giveup:
 
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Air impact. I think it is just one of those things. It should have worked, it just would not budge. I am duly impressed though with how strong the metal on that rotor is. Only a little clean up on the threads and it should be good to go. A quick google search told me that on rare occasions it has had to be cut off. Let's hope it doesn't come to that.


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klantz said:
Air impact. I think it is just one of those things. It should have worked, it just would not budge. I am duly impressed though with how strong the metal on that rotor is. Only a little clean up on the threads and it should be good to go. A quick google search told me that on rare occasions it has had to be cut off. Let's hope it doesn't come to that.


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When you get the rotor tool.... crank it down tight.... and then smack the end of it with a steel ball peen hammer (or better if you have one, an air impact tool with a blunted driver bit, and zap it with the impact bit)

The combo of tension on the tool and shock on the end of the tool will often pop the rotor off the crank taper.


Which is why 99.99% of the time when I pull a flywheel, using an air impact wrench it comes off no problem...

Last one I had issue with was on a 1976 RD350...... and doing the tapping like noted above worked on that one..
 
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I've got a nice 24oz ball peen for just this purpose. I was also going to tap the outside of the rotor with a rubber dead blow as I ran the impact. No mercy.


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klantz said:
I've got a nice 24oz ball peen for just this purpose. I was also going to tap the outside of the rotor with a rubber dead blow as I ran the impact. No mercy.


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Two things.

One I don't feel a dead blow hammer imparts the needed shock.. its not a soft blow your looking for, it is a hard, shock.

Two,, for the same reason we use pullers (or pushers) to remove the rotor from the center,,, and not three jaw pullers... I would not be hitting the sides of the rotor with any sort of hammer... they are often just formed steel, malleable and with even more fragile magnets (either brittle or softer)
 
E.Marquez said:
I apologize for the bad advice.. I've just never seen one do that before. . Must be something in the taper design for that motor that causes the KLR rotors to stick really hard.. The net is full of stories about stripped KLR rotor pullers (a misnomer .. it's really a rotor pusher) Of which i only found because you tried my suggestion and had issue, so I went looking.

Sorry you had to have that happen for me to become smarter.. /QUOTE]


Eh, it's not really bad advice. It should have worked. I was planning on using a regular bolt anyway. I don't blame ya. If I thought it would have possibly caused damage I wouldn't have tried it. I didn't see any reports of stripped pullers/pushers until I searched specifically for it. I'll keep posting the progress on this as it seems like it will inform quite a few people.


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I would think a grade 8 or better bolt would probably have worked with the right tap of a hammer. Oil drain plugs are soft metal for a reason but it would probably work on one that had been removed often. Now you have the real deal coming. On with the project.
 
mattc said:
I would think a grade 8 or better bolt would probably have worked with the right tap of a hammer. Oil drain plugs are soft metal for a reason but it would probably work on one that had been removed often. Now you have the real deal coming. On with the project.
Click to expand...

Grade 8 might have worked M22 grade 8 bolt IF you can find one would be very pricey).. Tool steel WILL work :giveup: The Eagle Mike remover will work.

But the drain plugs have worked so many times before when the user does not have a proper pusher bolt available, it is very strange that something with the KLR design cause them to stick so hard.

Does seem to be a common issue though for the KLR crowd.

And at the cost of the Eagle Mike remover.. I wont even bother turning one myself... not worth the cost and hassle of ordering stock and machining one.
 
My original idea for ace bolt and screw had an m22 grade 8 bolt. For $37


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