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Magnetic Tip Oil Plug Loose in Case

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Bajaexplorer

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DR650

Well, not loose now, its latched itself onto a shaft.

How to get that thing out without opening the case?

Dont think it traveled very far with it loose in there.
Maybe 150 yards.

Right now my thought is to get a magnet on a goose neck and run it back to the gearing, just try to pick it off from what ever it is stuck to.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.
 
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Because i hear it grinding/scrapping, like it is on a shaft caught between the shaft and case or other non movable part.

with clutch pulled in no scrapping noise.
putting bike in neutral and releasing clutch, i hear the scrapping.

Have a total of about 5 seconds of run time before i shut the bike down.
Not going to start it back up until i try fishing with magnet for it for some very long length or time.

Didn't know what the noise was until i pulled the oil drain plug.
 
I feel for you, that's a "real sticky" situation. That previous poster's link to the snake camera is not a bad idea, though I would probably try to find someone that already has the camera and borrow it. Just fishing around blindly with another magnet is probably worth a try; but you might have to just get out the tools and start taking it apart.
 
For 11 dollars why try to borrow it? Get it and keep it in the toolbox it'll have future uses.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
reading the reviews for that camera, i am not going to try it.
1) going to need better focus within the distances inside that case.
2) LED light beam width causes flooding into the camera itself.
3) More than likely will not run on my old android phone.
 
Mine has worked fine and runs on my little windows netbook and full size laptop like a champ. There are lots of other options though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Sounds like possibly it has latched onto the transmission input shaft. Short of splitting the case I cannot think of a reasonable way to extract the magnet.
 
ed29 said:
Sounds like possibly it has latched onto the transmission input shaft. Short of splitting the case I cannot think of a reasonable way to extract the magnet.
Click to expand...

yes...
I'll pull up a mechanical diagram see if there is any kind of way a goose neck magnet can reach back in there.

No idea of other gearing/etc that might be in the way.
I sure i hope i can. can't afford to have someone split case.
Bike just doesn't really have a value to it that would warrant that cost.

2002 DR650SE 49k miles.

edit:
Well, i found an parts assemble drawing of the transmission/clutch, but not the drawing i was looking for.
Wanted to see a perspective view of the transmission/clutch assemble.
 
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I tell you what, of all the crap I've seen this is a big pile of crap. You put in a drain plug with a magnet to gather all the metal crap that might be floating around so it doesn't end up somewhere it shouldn't, and the freaking magnet comes off and goes somewhere it shouldn't. Sometimes you really can't win no matter how hard you try. My condolences on this one. I wish I had some miracle to fix this one but I don't.
 
gixxerjasen said:
I tell you what, of all the crap I've seen this is a big pile of crap. You put in a drain plug with a magnet to gather all the metal crap that might be floating around so it doesn't end up somewhere it shouldn't, and the freaking magnet comes off and goes somewhere it shouldn't. Sometimes you really can't win no matter how hard you try. My condolences on this one. I wish I had some miracle to fix this one but I don't.
Click to expand...

I understand that.
What i keep wondering is did it just come out, or did one of the gears have a tooth break and shear it off. Really dont think there would enough velocity in the tooth to do that. Not with all the oil being kicked up slowing it down.

Sent an PM to Eric hoping he will jump in here.
If the case needs to be opened he is the only I will let do that work.
But then again dont know if the bike value warrants it.
 
What about put 5 or 0 weight oil in and new magnetic plug. Rock motor and trans back and forth with socket. Wait 24 hours and drain through strainer and see what you catch.
 
Windmill said:
What about put 5 or 0 weight oil in and new magnetic plug. Rock motor and trans back and forth with socket. Wait 24 hours and drain through strainer and see what you catch.
Click to expand...

Thought about something like that.

unsure if can jog the engine back n forth fast enough to cause the magnet to break it's hold.
Other thing is the reverse rotation stop on the DR. There is few degrees of it can rotate backwards.
 
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So, couple of thoughts..
Leave it be- Most permanent magnet material lacks ductility and are commonly brittle. Possible that magnet will just crush up and come out in a few oil changes or adhere to some non interacting surface and be in that exact spot 10 years from now.

The risk of leaving- it gets between two things that are mostly non ductile and have little to no clearance between them .. meshing gears for example...and the magnet causes a fracture of the gear. OR bits of a crushed magnet get in a open bearing race and the bearings and race are damaged.

Cost and time wise, I think Id suggest pulling side covers, clutch, shift shaft and assembly, any and everything on the outside of the case that might give you a window into the inside, a oil return port uncovered by removing the clutch basket might just be the thing needed to see the magnet and grab it with a tool.

If that did not work........balance the cost of a good used motor vice the time and cost to tear down completely the one you have now. How many miles on that motor now, if it is a 10 hour rebuild, / refresh sure, spend the money,,,if it is a 32k mile motor that is needing a full rebuild soon...and your not going to bite that off NOW while your in there..maybe not worth it.
 
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E.Marquez said:
So, couple of thoughts..
Leave it be- Most permanent magnet material lacks ductility and are commonly brittle. Possible that magnet will just crush up and come out in a few oil changes or adhere to some non interacting surface and be in that exact spot 10 years from now.

The risk of leaving- it gets between two thinks that are mostly non ductile and have little to no clearance between them .. meshing gears for example...and the magnet causes a fracture of the gear. OR bits of a crushed magnet get in a open bearing race and the bearings and race are damaged.

Cost and time wise, I think Id suggest pulling side covers, clutch, shift shaft and assembly, any and everything on the outside of the case that might give you a window into the inside, a oil return port uncovered by removing the clutch basket might just be the thing needed to see the magnet and grab it with a tool.

If that did not work........balance the cost of a good used motor vice the time and cost to tear down completely the one you have now. How many miles on that motor now, if it is a 10 hour rebuild, / refresh sure, spend the money,,,if it is a 32k mile motor that is needing a full rebuild soon...and your not going to bite that off NOW while your in there..maybe not worth it.
Click to expand...

The bike has 48k miles on it now.
Runs great. Before this problem, I would take it anywhere for just about any length of trip.

I am really not too sure about buying a used engine off of ebay or such.
 
Well, took the clutch side cover off, basket and all related.
Still can't see any of the gears nor the input shaft from the clutch.

Going to try stabbing blindly with the goose neck magnet I have and hope to get lucky.
Can't say how long i will keep trying that.

Only think after that is button it back up, put a new magnetic plug in and ride it for some miles and the change/check the oil and magnetic plug, hope for the best.

Did run the magnet all along the bottom of the case and did not pick up any particles.
 
Given the desperate situation lacking an obvious easy solution ....

?maybe pull the spark plug to make rotation easy then gently hand-turn the engine to see if
  • you can get a better 'feel' for the risk of the current location of the magnet (does it hit a 'hard stop' point? does it feel 'notchy' or relatively 'smooth'?)
  • maybe get a better sense of it's location by sound or feeling for vibration on various locations you can access from outside (have or borrow one of those 'stethoscopes' that has the long vibration-probe you touch against an engine/component to try to pinpoint a noise source?)
  • maybe break the general rule of 'don't rotate in reverse direction' to see if that helps with any of the locating efforts or changes the 'grinding' situation? (I'm not sure of other risks of that with that engine, e.g messing-up the cam-chain tensioner position)

just brainstorming in the face of a bad situation I'm glad I'm not facing hands-on .... and wishing you the best of luck.
 
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Centex said:
Given the desperate situation lacking an obvious easy solution ....

?maybe pull the spark plug to make rotation easy then gently hand-turn the engine to see if
  • you can get a better 'feel' for the risk of the current location of the magnet (does it hit a 'hard stop' point? does it feel 'notchy' or relatively 'smooth'?)
  • maybe get a better sense of it's location by sound or feeling for vibration on various locations you can access from outside (have or borrow one of those 'stethoscopes' that has the long vibration-probe you touch against an engine/component to try to pinpoint a noise source?)
  • maybe break the general rule of 'don't rotate in reverse direction' to see if that helps with any of the locating efforts or changes the 'grinding' situation? (I'm not sure of other risks of that with that engine, e.g messing-up the cam-chain tensioner position)

just brainstorming in the face of a bad situation I'm glad I'm not facing hands-on .... and wishing you the best of luck.
Click to expand...

I did find a small piece of it.
Looks to be about half what i imagine the full size to be.
It was squish on one end.
Seems to be real malleable from the looks of this piece.
It was attached to metal inside holding the oil level sight.
 
Bajaexplorer said:
I did find a small piece of it.
Looks to be about half what i imagine the full size to be.
It was squish on one end.
Seems to be real malleable from the looks of this piece.
It was attached to metal inside holding the oil level sight.
Click to expand...
Hard to guess if that's 'net good', 'net bad' or 'net neutral' news.

Trying to stay positive I'll go with 'getting any part of it out is a gain'.

Just hoping for continued happy 'fishing'.
 
well, now can't get that 'baked on' gasket off the cover.

Went to 3 auto parts and none had a spray on gasket remover.
Paint scrapers does not even do anything, but slid on it.

Knife works somewhat, but too much chance of gouging the surface.
 
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