• Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to register so that you can join the community and use the numerous features on the site. After registering, don't forget to post up an introduction!

exhaust bolts seized

Forums New posts
gunzip

gunzip

0
Joined
Jan 20, 2008
Messages
423
Reaction score
0
Location
oklahoma
Anybody have any tricks or advise for backing out seized bolts? I made a deal I couldn't turn down on some Delkevic headers and three of my header bolts just will not budge and I am afraid to get 'indelicate' on these aluminum threads
 
heat cycle and anti seize ( Left Loosey or similar)multiple times. meaning until the bolts or nuts back out. Other wise it becomes a time consuming and not inexpensive proposition ( says the guy with the cylinder swap on a V Strom)
 
Soak it with 50% acetone / 50% transmission fluid.

Signatures? We don't need no stinking signatures!
 
Wd40, run the bike until the fan kicks in then Wd40 again(caution bike well be pretty warm)
 
Henkel (loctite) makes a lubricant called Freeze and Release that causes a cold reaction on whatever it is sprayed on. My recomendation would be to try it first at room temperature, just to avoid cracking anything. If that doesn't work to start then you are going to start using heat and some of the various methods mentioned.


http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797940809729
 
Wrap the bolts with a rag then saturate the rag with a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster. Let it sit overnight then try to get the out.
 
as above get the engine stinking hot make sure you have a good quality wrench and do not touch anything hot.
 
A can of spray air for computers will dispense cold stuff if you hold it upside down so the propellent comes out instead of air. Applied through a tube to the bolt, aimed in such a way not to also cool the aluminum head may cause the bolt to contract and break the bond enough to loosen it.

Once removed, replace the bolt with a stud and nut for reassembly and apply copious amounts of anti-seize to prevent future problems.

A steel nut on steel stud is less likely to bind up than steel on aluminum and the chemical process between the two.

Back in the early 80's I had to remove a head on a GS1000 and have the remainder of the bolt that broke off removed at a machine shop.

Went through a lot of things trying to get it loose to no avail. My attempts at removal with drill and EZ-out led to them using a laser to destroy what was left of the bolt, then welding the hole in the aluminum back up, machining, drilling and tapping it, then returned the head to me along with a stunning repair bill. :eek2:
 
I am going give this stuff called Kroil a try with some heat cycling etc. Reading up on the product ; everyone swears it's head and shoulders above any other penetrant-catalyst
 
Kroil is the best I've ever used. On shore and offshore in the salt atmosphere. Let us know how it works out.
 
I read a thing a while back where they tested different penetrant oils on test subjects. Kroil was up on the list, PB Blaster was up there....

The highest, however, has already been mentioned here.

Acetone mixed 50/50 with ATF.

The torque it took to break a bolt loose was SIGNIFICANTLY lower with it, than the next dinner up. (Kroil or PB, can't remember which)

EDIT----- it was Machinist Workshop magazine, Apr/may '07.

If you Google "Machinist wo......." It recommends the exact article, as well as 40,000 other threads refrencing it, saying its the best way hands-down.
 
Last edited:
Well exhaust is off. Now to start a broken bolt removal thread . Hindsight is 20-20 ; wished I'd never messed with stock setup. I've never been too crazy about aftermarket pipes on any bike I've had . They all seem to increase vibes and shift the powerband away from where I use it most
 
gunzip said:
wished I'd never messed with stock setup. I've never been too crazy about aftermarket pipes on any bike I've had . They all seem to increase vibes and shift the powerband away from where I use it most
Click to expand...

Reference the XR400 thread for more discussion on this subject & "impossible to start" bikes.
 
Same thing in the pro audio business, some dude with a woodshop figures he can do a better job than the OEM with an anechoic chamber & a couple of $M in Agilent equipment.
 
Well all fixed on the exhaust bolts ; sounds and runs great! quite a jump from bone stock to full stage 2...but now the clutch is slipping :doh:
 
Glad it's working out for you. Finally needed to do maintenance on my Suzy. New rear tire. Don't think I've touched the engine since my last oil/filter change about 2000 miles ago. Other than that, sparkplugs about 2.5 years ago. Still runs like a kitten.
 
thrill-billy85 said:
X2. We're NOT smarter than a team of Japanese engineers.
Click to expand...

Of course not, unfortunately the design goals of that team of Japanese engineers rarely aligns with the goals and wants of the individual rider.

So if you want a well designed bike that works as good as it can as built, keep it stock. If you want a bike to work as good as it can, build it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top