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Tie down dirtbike

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None if done properly. :mrgreen:

I use soft straps and d-rings. D-rings go through the holes on the tie down point and then through the holes on the hook on the tie down strap. D-ring goes through the soft strap and then through the hole on the hook of the tie down strap on the other end. Front end chocked in some way shape or form, then pull snug. This method doesn't employ any hook at all and the suspension can bounce along as if it were on the trail and nothing will ever come loose short of a break in the strap, which will happen if you have it pulled super duper tight as well. I also will have a strap that goes from somewhere on the back of the bike to around the chock area pulling the bike forward into the chock.

Your tire must be secure though from side to side movement with this method. If not it can slide from one side to the other very easily. I learned this method from a guy with a rail type trailer and employed it on my truck and had my bike slide over. That's when I started putting the bike in at an angle with the front wheel in the corner. No problems ever since.
 
I usually do about half or less.
Most of the time I have a home made "fork save" [peice of 2x4 cut to length] in there so the forks compress very little.
 
texasnh said:
How much should the shocks be compressed when tying the bike down on a trailer?
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It doesn't matter, do it with none, half or full compression. What ever you feel like.


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poser said:
I usually do about half or less.
Most of the time I have a home made "fork save" [peice of 2x4 cut to length] in there so the forks compress very little.
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+1.. Use something to limit your compression to about 25%. That way you seals are not under constant pressure, your springs don't get sacked out if you leave it for longer than the trip and if the truck or trailer hits a bump the suspension wont compress any more than the straps are holding it.
 
About half. Point is you don't want the bike to bounce too much causing the straps to get loose allowing the bike to become unsupported. You will NOT hurt either the forks, shocks or seals by doing this. Not possible. By design, neither shocks or forks are under "pressure" so that under compression seals are not having to seal against increased pressure. If seals ever start leaking, they were bad in the first place. Contrary to popular belief, they are not under any pressure when forks are compressed.

So, "It doesn't matter, do it with none, half or full compression. What ever you feel like." Trust me. It's a fact.
 
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Hemibee said:
It doesn't matter, do it with none, half or full compression. What ever you feel like.
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I should have added, I crank mine down so the bike doesn't bounce all over the place. You can not, I repeat, you can not hurt the springs or seals by doing it this way. You can leave it for extended periods with no worry, you can not, I repeat, you can not hurt the seals or springs by doing this.


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Enough to stabilize it. I agree with the folks on no damage to the forks from strapping the bike securely. If you have not bought straps already take a look at some of the ratchet straps from Rocky Mountain ATV. My choice is the type with built in soft ties at the top, and carabiners in place of hooks on the bottom. That biner gate simply will not release off of a tie loop.
 
On a similar topic, what type of strap do you use? I use the rachet, but it's a pain to loosen.

Cam
cam-buckle.gif


Rachet
ratchet.gif
 
Whichever you prefer. I used cam straps for years. As they aged they would slip a bit, especially if I hauled on rainy days. I resorted to replacing straps every two seasons.

Both (either) work for dirtbikes. Once you get up into KLR weight class and above the ratchet gives me peace of mind in exchange for the hassle involved. I have yet to have a ratchet strap slip.
 
Hemibee said:
You can not, I repeat, you can not hurt the springs or seals by doing it this way. You can leave it for extended periods with no worry, you can not, I repeat, you can not hurt the seals or springs by doing this.
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A long time ago I was one of the ones that cringed when I saw someone doing this to their bikes. So I finally called a suspension shop (I believe it was Race Tech) and the confirmed that cranking them down hard would not hurt the springs one bit. They did however tell me that it does put the seals under pressure, but the worst thing that would happen, if anything, would be that it would force a little oil out from between the seal and the fork leg.

If I had a choice between having my motorbike skid down the freeway after coming unhooked, or maybe losing a little fork oil, I think I'd be cranking them down. Lucky for me I have D-rings on all my straps so I don't have to crank the poo out of them, or worry about them coming unhooked.:thumb:
 
I really like Pro Taper tie downs. They are about 1.5" wide vice the standard 1". They have swivel d-rings on bottom and soft loop on top. They work well.
 
Just a note on securing loads. I haven't worked any incidents involving motorcycles coming off trailers with broken/loose tie-downs but I have from BROKEN(fatigued) tie-down bolts. We worked a situation on I-35 where a Kaw Vulcan tumbled down the outside lane when a tie-down bolt on a home-made trailer broke. The little eye-bolt should never have been used for a tie-down point and it broke, so check the points where the straps connect. I am till amazed no one was killed when the Vulcan fell off the trailer.
 
I heard a trick the other day from a riding bud that is so simple and obvious, I don't know why I didn't think about it. :doh: Ok, I'm not that smart but here's the tip:
Use a bungee cord along with the strap attached to both ends on the hooks. That way, if there is any slack in the straps from bouncing or whatever, the bungee cord keeps tension on the hooks and they stay in place.

I also use one of those fork saver things that go between the wheel and the fender. Kinda of a brace type deal. Even with that, I've had my bike fall off the trailer driving out from Hidden Falls. I was riding with Budzrex and my wr was on my Harbor Freight trailer. I think the trailer flexed enough for the straps to come loose on one side. The bike fell off and the other strap stayed on. The trailer wheel ran over the bike and it was dragged a very short distance. It didn't hurt it too bad, only a little scratched plastic & kill switch. I only had two straps on it though. Now I also use two on the pegs coming forward.
 
I always tie the back of my bike down also. It will keep the bike from cartwheeling over the cab of the truck if someone runs a stopsign and I broadside them. The bike could become the proverbial projectile. There nothing wrong with doubling up tie downs. Seeing that Kawasaki Vulcan on I-35 makes me doublecheck what I load.
 
A friend of mine rear ended a car in his truck and didnt strap the back of the bike down. It flipped the bike over on top of the cab of the little Toyota truck. And your fork seals WILL weep if fully compressed for a long time.

Lets think about it your fork is filled with oil 5 and a half inches from the top you strap it down and compress it 8 inchs???
 
Fiddyone said:
Lets think about it your fork is filled with oil 5 and a half inches from the top you strap it down and compress it 8 inchs???
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Just to clarify this a little, your oil measurement is taken when the forks are already compressed fully. Yes, there are no springs in when the measurement is taken so they will take up some of that space, but the wording in your post made it seem like you only have 5 inches of space yet are compressing it 8 inches.

I still tie mine down at loose as I can while still feeling safe about it. If anything it just makes me feel better....LOL
 
DFW_Warrior said:
Just to clarify this a little, your oil measurement is taken when the forks are already compressed fully. Yes, there are no springs in when the measurement is taken so they will take up some of that space, but the wording in your post made it seem like you only have 5 inches of space yet are compressing it 8 inches.

I still tie mine down at loose as I can while still feeling safe about it. If anything it just makes me feel better....LOL
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I just threw some #'s out thier more that your fork oil is going somewhere and the seal is the weak point.

You could do it once or never your seals eventually gonna go out! I tighten to the point I feel safe except when using my block between the tire and fender. Then I crank my tire almost flat Im more afraid the block might pop out.
 
I have trailered my WR many times. I get about half-way down on the front and use extra tie-down points in the back. I ideally, if you have a front-wheel chock, just drive up and click. I stop after about ten minutes and check the strap tension again. Make sure and tie up an excess straps with zip ties. After a long-trip, they can get loose and flap against the bike and possible damage the surface.

Here is a pretty good demo.

RB

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLxXUB_wa9E&feature=related"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLxXUB_wa9E&feature=related[/ame]
 
AustinJake said:
On my current bike, the front is compressed about 5 inches (of 11.8" available) and the rear about 4 inches (of 11"). The bike is very stable on the road. I have tied bikes down like this for over 40 years and I have never had any problems with this method and I agree with prev posters that there is no risk to suspension components.
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Nice looking bike - and is that a wooden ramp?
 
Jake,

Nice photo - where is that taken? Also, cool bike is that a Dakar / Ralley wind screen?
 
Red Brown said:
I stop after about ten minutes and check the strap tension again.
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Best advice so far. I usually check pretty early in the trip. If I'm coming from where I've ridden the dirtbike and there's a bumpy dirt road to get out, right afterwards is the best place to check. Most likely you'll spot any problems with your tiedown technique there and you can correct and be good on the highway.
 
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