- Joined
- Jan 8, 2011
- Messages
- 3,604
- Reaction score
- 1,502
- Location
- Lake Charles, La
- First Name
- Joel
- Last Name
- Sims
I disable the kickstand switch too.
It's a pretty basic system used on the LRP and the clutch switch is not wired through the brain for the fuel or ignition in a way that would set a fault code.
I wonder what someone at Honda was thinking when they decided to move the switches around?
This is not the only bike they have done it on.
what do you mean "move the switches around" ?
I went and looked one over in El Campo a few weeks ago. The owner of that shop goes to our church, might sweet talk him into a deal, maybe. LOL I have to pay off a debt or two anyway before I'll worry much about it.
They had a Suzuki 200cc dual sport there for $700 off, quite a bit lighter and should be more off road worthy, but it wouldn't be as road worthy. The Honda could easily ride on the highways around here, doubt the Suzuki would like a 70 mph speed limit with a head wind. It's a lot simpler engine, though, and the bike is already a bargain.
That Honda is heavy, but it's a lot lighter than my KLR. I really don't do much highway riding anymore, but would like the ability. Fortunately, I have time to conger this problem.
They went and moved the horn button above the turn signal switch after building bikes with the horn button on the bottom for almost 50 years.
Lots of rack options out there, just google "crf250l rack", and check out the images.
According to the Owners manual, the bike is designed to carry only 351lbs of rider, passenger, and luggage, and only 10lbs of that as luggage. I believe that tells us, the seating area is pretty stout, but past that, things get sketchy. There have been many reports of the rear subframe fracturing if asked to support too much weight, too far back, such as on a rack with panniers attached. In order to safely carry much weight for long trips, I suggest you use soft systems that go over the rear of the seat and angle forward, like the Giant Loop products, http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/664481_10152295202950601_1334742972_o.jpg
and/or a rack that attaches to the main frame, such as the CycleRacks product: http://cycleracks.com/ProductDetail/tabid/87/ProductID/50/Default.aspx
Also of note, the stock shock spring is very weak (not so much the forks), as is the rebound dampening on that shock. I weigh in around 190 with gear and a small tail pack with 7lbs of water and tools, and even with the preload maxed on the shock, I can still easily bottom out on deep whoops at speed. Not super hard, but I can feel the suspension reaching the limit of its travel.
Adding much more cargo, or a passenger, would make that a big deal, so expect to purchase an aftermarket shock right away. YSS makes one that is affordable ($350) and functional. RaceTech makes one that is twice the price and much nicer.
Let us know how it goes.
My CRF250L is a 2014, I think. I always get over 60mpg (whenever I've checked), so that should be about 125 miles to a full tank.
I usually get over 65mpg and have exceeded 70mpg often, but I'm unsure how I'd do now. I've changed the rear sprocket, put on a full Yoshi, removed the screen from the front of the airfilter, and unhooked the O2 wire. It's noisier, with just a little bit more power. When I get the chance I'll check the mileage again.
I have a rear rack with the fitting to hold a 1.75gal Rotopax tank.
Necrobump
Just got a CRF250L. Digging it.
I think I need to start looking at rear shocks. Looks like YSS, Race Tech and Ohlins all make something? Any recommendations?
I'd also like to get some folding mirrors and maybe relocate the front blinkers something less break prone. I like the idea of them being on the hand guards. Will that pass inspection?
At this point, does anyone know how far the bike will go on a tank with the stock tank? Only mods on my bike that might affect this are 13 tooth sprocket and Uni air filter.