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What is your experience with Rekluse Auto Clutches?

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Speaking of clutch disengaement on the downhills...Free wheeling down those mountain trails in CO with the engine off is hands down the best way to get yourself totally dialed in on your braking technic. Nothing like several thousand feet of steep descent to get you in practice. I spent an entire half day running my little TW up the trail until it reached the elevation where it simply couldn't climb any further ( about 12,000 feet) Then i would turn off the engine and free roll all the way down to the bottom. I must have done that at least 20 times. My ability to apply just the right amount of front & rear binders improved greatly, as did my ability to carry rolling momentum thru a corner. I adamantly advise anyone to try this on a few long steep descents. Watch and see if your braking & riding abilities don't suddenly improve.
 
wildernessrider said:
Speaking of clutch disengaement on the downhills...Free wheeling down those mountain trails in CO with the engine off is hands down the best way to get yourself totally dialed in on your braking technic. Nothing like several thousand feet of steep descent to get you in practice. I spent an entire half day running my little TW up the trail until it reached the elevation where it simply couldn't climb any further ( about 12,000 feet) Then i would turn off the engine and free roll all the way down to the bottom. I must have done that at least 20 times. My ability to apply just the right amount of front & rear binders improved greatly, as did my ability to carry rolling momentum thru a corner. I adamantly advise anyone to try this on a few long steep descents. Watch and see if your braking & riding abilities don't suddenly improve.
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When riding with friends up there we cost raced down some of the roads. All line up and starting rolling. Pretty fun to carry speed through the corners and still hit speeds of 45 and better to hear the suspension working underneath you.
 
DFW_Warrior said:
I have the older Z Start Pro (full kit but with the OEM cover) on my YZ250 and if the bike didn't have it on there I would either put one on it or sell the bike. Honestly, I will never own another dirt bike without one on it. I'm no racer, and honestly I don't get out enough to keep my*nasty terrain clutch skills in tip top shape, so the Rekluse just makes for a much more enjoyable ride.

Now for dual sport riding like Big Bend, all of the normal DS riding in and around the Alpine Loop in CO, and so forth; I think they are very much not needed. But for first and second gear nasty rocky off-road riding it would be my number one modification after suspension tuning.
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Just the opposite, Bill. One of the first advanced off road riding skills I learned was to use the clutch and kill switch as a rear brake on down hills. Now it is such an ingrained habit I screw up what an auto clutch does. I just can't ride without screwing up an auto clutch's action, so I'd never own a bike with one. When I discipline focus I can let the auto clutches do their things, and I can see why they are so lovable, but most of my riding these days is instinct, by feel, and it is rare for me to stop, pick a line, make a plan, and execute. I pretty much look, decide if I can make it or not, and just go. I'm usually too occupied sight seeing to think about controlling the bike, it just happens instinctively. People often ask me how I did this or that, and I just get this confused look and can't really tell because I don't really know.
 
There's definitely a learning curve associated with an auto-clutch. And as mentioned, it pays dividends during extended rides in technical terrain. After a couple of hours most riders adapt to the new technology and begin to appreciate the Rekluse's capabilities.

As for downhills, those accustomed to engine braking may need to drop down a gear to ensure the Rekluse is engaged. However, disc brakes are so effective that engine braking (literally required during the era of drum brakes) is nearly an afterthought. The brakes also provide greater control and better "flow" over downhill obstacles.

The Rekluse is not for everyone, and those folks riding non-technical terrain could find better ways to spend $500+. Those who ride tight woods and rocks will benefit the most from an auto-clutch's peace of mind.


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Assuming one has the available funds, it also might be "worth it" if your clutch is particularly stiff to operate. Clutching my WR-450 all day long makes my hand go into muscle cramps by mid afternoon.
 
Hands down the best mod I've made short of custom suspension. I put a 3.0 on both my KTM 500 and my wife's KTM Freeride. Those are about as opposite types of bikes you can get and the Rekluse works great on both. On a big 4 stroke like the 500, you start riding everything in second or third, even tight trails, because there is enough available torque. Setup is key, I swapped the springs out after my second ride at SHNF and haven't touched it since. Been to Colorado twice now with them. If you feel like you need some engine breaking coming down those long mountain roads, just blip the throttle and the clutch plates engage and don't disengage until the rpms drop back down. I'll never own another bike that I can't put a Rekluse on, that's how much I love them.
 
Btweaver13 said:
There's definitely a learning curve associated with an auto-clutch. And as mentioned, it pays dividends during extended rides in technical terrain. After a couple of hours most riders adapt to the new technology and begin to appreciate the Rekluse's capabilities.

As for downhills, those accustomed to engine braking may need to drop down a gear to ensure the Rekluse is engaged. However, disc brakes are so effective that engine braking (literally required during the era of drum brakes) is nearly an afterthought. The brakes also provide greater control and better "flow" over downhill obstacles.

The Rekluse is not for everyone, and those folks riding non-technical terrain could find better ways to spend $500+. Those who ride tight woods and rocks will benefit the most from an auto-clutch's peace of mind.


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My personal problem with engine braking was when fast riding and charging a corner, at the worst moment rpm dropped to the point it would free wheel. Of course I pretty much learned to adapt but still got surprised once in a while. Some of this was worse at first as I was "cheating" and riding a gear high because I could. So it would free wheel sooner in too high of gear. So I lost the advantage of running a higher gear by staying in proper gear.
 
The "gear high" riding style does keep RPM low while maintaining speed. The bike relaxes at lower RPM, resulting in more supple suspension and and increased engine fluidity (ie less "jerky").

The freewheeling effect in corners can be used to a rider's advantage. Drive in deep, chop the throttle and step on the rear brake, since there's no worry of stalling. As the back slides around, roll the throttle, and since you're a gear high, the bike will accelerate in a deliberate fashion, but not too aggressively. Want more juice? Feather the clutch, as Rekluse has full clutch functionality as an option.


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:chug:, I learned to ride it, but sold the bike and for now no intention of adding to current bike. But never know!!
 
Good point about the increased effectiveness of modern brakes, My TW still has the original rear shoes with 58,000 miles on them. It's been through several sets of pads on the front. I expect if I was a newbie today and had the $$$ I'd probably go with a Rekluse or similar, but old habits die hard. The older I get the more difficult it is to adapt from one bike to another.
 
I tuned a Husky 430 auto for a friend many years ago , when I test rode it in a well used trail section thru the woods the first couple miles were spent trying to figure it out and the next few miles were way faster than I ever rode one of my bikes , brakes or gas , all or nothing slide into the berm in the corner while you roll back on the gas when it's pointed the right direction off the brakes and wfo toward the next corner then do it all over again . The only issue with the Husky is that's the only way the bike could be ridden was locked up brakes or wfo , no such thing as puttin along enjoying the scenery . I have never felt my Recluse let go and freewheel because as I'm slowing down I'm down shifting to be in the right gear when it's time to go again and on the brakes if I want to slide the wheel so what I don't kill the motor . It really shines on steep nasty up hills , trials ride up picking you line thru the rocks or blast up if it's smooth both ways work just fine and you never stall the motor . For off road it's the ultimate cheater , no need for it on the highway . I've been tossing around the idea of a electric paddle shifter but I haven't got finding neutral figured out yet .
 
I looked to see what I am running in my bikes , the 450 EXC is the original Rekluse , the Beta has a Core EXP 2.0 and the one for the 950 SE is a EXP 3.0 not installed yet .
 
I will be anxious to hear how it holds up, and if you like having it on a bigger bore road bike. Have an Africa Twin that I might want to put one in.
 
The 450 bikes have been flawless , until I get major suspension work done to the SE it won't be installed , the po set it up for a big boy and I'm not near big enough so as is it , is unrideable off road . At soft settings it is way too stiff for me and rider comfort is not near as good as my 950 adventure . At this point I could prolly be talked out of it fairly easily and I really never felt the need for the Rekluse on the adventure so it to will prolbly be passed on too .
 
I bought this Rekluse for my CR250R back in '06 when I first bought the bike. This is the Z-start Pro model. Back then when it was just released, the improvement over the original Z -start model was that the clutch override now works throughout the entire RPM range (vs. low rpm only w/ the z start).
DSC0815.jpg


So when I 1st went to install it inside my smoker, I talked extensively w/ the tech guys about which setting to go with. the techie suggested to try their recommended setting per instruction sheet. So I did that, and that's what it's set at for 11 yrs now...and man/dude/bro.... that little sucker's still slipping away perfectly like the 1st day I installed it. My motor's gone through 11, maybe 13 top ends so far, and yet I've never had to do a thing w/ my clutches. Unfortunately, my stock clutch basket is just starting to notch. So when I do my next top end, a new Rekluse billet clutch basket and cushions is going in there and I'll throw in some new clutch pads and reset the gap all over again. But Seriously, I haven't messed w/ that rekluse since 2006!

It's a shame Rekluse retired the Pro model. That line has a proven record for
being bulletproof. If you ever get your hands on a Rekluse Pro, grab it quick.
 
Dao said:
I bought this Rekluse for my CR250R back in '06 when I first bought the bike. This is the Z-start Pro model. Back then when it was just released, the improvement over the original Z -start model was that the clutch override now works throughout the entire RPM range (vs. low rpm only w/ the z start).
DSC0815.jpg


So when I 1st went to install it inside my smoker, I talked extensively w/ the tech guys about which setting to go with. the techie suggested to try their recommended setting per instruction sheet. So I did that, and that's what it's set at for 11 yrs now...and man/dude/bro.... that little sucker's still slipping away perfectly like the 1st day I installed it. My motor's gone through 11, maybe 13 top ends so far, and yet I've never had to do a thing w/ my clutches. Unfortunately, my stock clutch basket is just starting to notch. So when I do my next top end, a new Rekluse billet clutch basket and cushions is going in there and I'll throw in some new clutch pads and reset the gap all over again. But Seriously, I haven't messed w/ that rekluse since 2006!

It's a shame Rekluse retired the Pro model. That line has a proven record for
being bulletproof. If you ever get your hands on a Rekluse Pro, grab it quick.
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You might be right about reliability, I had both the Pro and now an EXP 2.0 and the newer versions are so much easier to install (don't have 20 large ball bearing to balance in the clutch when putting it together), in a workshop that is not an issue, but I have had to adjust my rekluse clutches whilst out riding in the dirt and the new clutches are much easier to take apart and put back together!! Just for convenience I would always go for an EXP2 or 3

Gary
 
The Core EXP 3.0 has an external slave cylinder for bikes with hydraulic clutches. A 4mm hex wrench and 15 seconds is all you need to adjust settings.
 
I rode with an very experienced rider this last week and he has done many races in his life.

I noticed he had a Rekluse clutch on his bike and I was kidding him that I thought those were only for inexperienced newbies. He said he had heard all that but it was one of the best mods he had done to his bike and was very glad he had done it!!
 
SilverBullet said:
Wishing that you had bought the DCT version now?

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Positively NOT! Really more of a curiosity thing about how well they will work in the large torque engines. If i had my way, they would still be putting 6 speed manual shift trannies in F-350s. I still refer to any truck with an automatic transmission as a "womens truck". Wheather on 2 wheels or 4, I will forever be a non-PC gear jammer.
 
wildernessrider said:
Positively NOT! Really more of a curiosity thing about how well they will work in the large torque engines. If i had my way, they would still be putting 6 speed manual shift trannies in F-350s. I still refer to any truck with an automatic transmission as a "womens truck". Wheather on 2 wheels or 4, I will forever be a non-PC gear jammer.
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Well I was wondering because you posted your YZ has a Rekluse and you're thinking to put one in your WR. Actually from what I read and gather a DCT is a step above a Rekluse.

If you want a "men's truck" you can still buy a Ram with 6 speed manual. That will be my next vehicle purchase for my retirement haul rig. So long as I still have two healthy legs to clutch and brake, I'll never buy an automatic. In my lifetime I've only bought one automatic for myself and I kept that one less than a year.

_
 
SilverBullet said:
Well I was wondering because you posted your YZ has a Rekluse and you're thinking to put one in your WR. Actually from what I read and gather a DCT is a step above a Rekluse.

If you want a "men's truck" you can still buy a Ram with 6 speed manual. That will be my next vehicle purchase for my retirement haul rig. So long as I still have two healthy legs to clutch and brake, I'll never buy an automatic. In my lifetime I've only bought one automatic for myself and I kept that one less than a year.

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Hate hearing I'm a sissy, lol!
 
woodsguy said:
Hate hearing I'm a sissy, lol!
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Haha..I was only using Donny's terminology Lol

I have nothing against automatics just not for me. Can't really even say you get better mpg with manuals anymore either. I flat out enjoy driving any manual trans vehicle but an auto is transportation mode for me..boring no matter how big, small or sporty the vehicle. If I ever had a daily rush hour commute I would have probably changed my mind. But over the years I always chose my work and home locations carefully. Except for a two year stint in So Cal and then I rode the bike everyday and lane split.

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