Sealing an unused wire end; a better way

E.Marquez said:

Morning, I had a second thought on your wiring question. I realized I answered for me.. But I have lots of supplies on hand, many wiring tools at hand and have spent a lot of time using them.....
I don't know what you have.

so that said....the answer to should you buy their $35 or $45 wiring Kit is, it depends.

What it gets you is some material ..but at $35 you can buy everything you needs and have left overs for other projects..If that day will never come, than maybe buy the kit.

The kit gets you three pre terminated on one end wire runs, two of them with a fuse holder. .. Can you solder and use heat shrink tubing? If you can and Your wiling to spend the time again Id say do that and not buy the kit.....
BUT if you find you have less time then money, or just don't like the work, buy the kit.

If its an experience thing, don't let it be, between help here and what you can find on line the job is not hard, and the best part, you learn though doing but mistakes are really cheap to fix...
Bad crimp, do it again your out $0.03
Bad solder joint? Snip off 1/4" strip wire and do it again.

The Kit suggest the use of wire taps, as those go I'm not a big fan....anything that pierces the wire insulation, anything that is a snap or screw together device is not my preferred method.
That said, if I had to use a tap, it would be a posi tap...
When I install a FZ1, as they almost always go under the seat near the rear of the bike, I connect the relay trigger terminal to a taillight 12v key on wire. I do that by removing that terminal pin from the housing and soldiering my trigger wire to that pin, slide some heat shrink tube onto both wires and shrink as a stress guard and then inserting it back into the housing. On the rare occasion that wont work doe to connector design, I will release the pin from the housing, cut back some insulation, solder the trigger wire on and again use a piece of heat shrink tube to seal and stress relieve the joint....
The same thing in a slightly less clean way can be done without releasing the pin from the housing.... carefully remove some insolation and then lay trigger wire along side the primary wire, and coil wrap the trigger wire around it, soldier and use liquid electrical tape to seal. I would also use a few small zip ties at the joint and a few CM back to reinforce the wire joint.

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HailChaser said:

Erik, Thanks for the reply I do have enough spare wires, electical components and all the tools laying around the garage that I think is needed for this job. The trigger wire and soldering job is what worried me on the install but your write up makes it pretty clear what I need to do.

A year or so back I jammed a 50amp fuse in my drz that had a short and was constantly blowing fuses while out on the trail I thought it would get me back to the truck. Of course after frying all electrical components with the turn of the key it took me weeks to find and replace all components that I damaged and taught me there is a lot that I don't know about the electrical part of these bikes. Ever since that headache I've been hesitant on doing anything electrical on my other bikes. I have a lot of accessories to add to the KLR for an upcoming trip so I'm excited to get this fuzeblock in.

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Downs said:

This is a timely thread. I just got done installing a new stator and switching from a shunt style regulator rectifier (two different boxes on my old GS1000), to a series unit using a salvage SH775 R/R from a wrecked out Polaris Side by Side. I used a weather pack connector kit for that specific R/R and eliminated a lot of extra connections in the wiring harness that used to be for the charging system. So I need to seal off a bunch of loose ends in the wiring.

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focus frenzy said:

did you eliminate the loop up to the light switch?

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