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If you can't wear leather, what's the next best?

I recently bought this roadcrafter lite suit to get into dual sport & street riding. It's Aerostich's lighter weight fabric , for riding when the temps are between 50-80degF.
But above 80F, it starts to get hot underneath if I'm not moving. I'm not looking forward to wearing it when we see temps in June-Aug, so i'll see how uncomfortable it'll be then. It may just work out fine, since it's got front, underarm and back air openings. Standing up while riding pushes alot of air through it.

Took some measurements, called them to see what size I need to order, and in 4-5 days, it got delivered to my door step. Off the "rack", it fits me better than my Armani suit.:lol2:
 

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Just to clarify a couple of points. It's not actually "nylon" you should be concerned about. Nylon covers a wide range of products of varying degrees of abrasion resistance, tear resistance, and yes, melting point. Nylons actually are on the better side of abrasion and melting resistance. The type of nylon selected will depend on what other characteristics the manufacturer desires, color fastness, softness, luster, UV resistance, etc. Often times in motorcycle gear you are talking about a type of Nylon 6 which has a melting point in excess of 400F. And if Nylon 6,6 we're talking in excess of 500F in some documentation I've seen. To put that in reference, I've seen crash abrasion data with temperatures that exceeded 400F in localized points, but that's about max. And keep in mind that in your most critical points that are likely to take the hardest draggin/most abrasion/have the most weight behind the hit and therefore the most friction, you have armor between you and the fabric. So that's why Nylons with capabilities in the 400+ range make good/reliable/adequate choices for fabrics in those garments.

What can affect things is that PU coatings on top of Nylons don't do as well in high heat/high abrasion situations. They are sometimes used because they yield desirable characteristics in water resistance, color fastness, etc. But the PU melts much lower and *CAN* be an issue under extreme circumstances. It seems Teflon makes a much better coating choice as a nylon treatment.

Bur really, where this perpetuated concern of melting gear in the motorcycle community comes from is cheaper products that use Polyester instead of Nylon. POLYESTER IS NOT NYLON. It has a MUCH lower melting point. It can be down even into the 250F range. Early generation mesh jackets, and still some lower end models/manufacturers use polyester that won't hold up to higher heat abrasion. The number of actual *firsthand* anecdotal cases of gear suffering any "melting" or riders sustaining added injury from melted gear is *VERY SMALL*. But the handful of firsthand cases that *I've* found (not I heard of this guy, I read on this forum, etc.) have all gone back to polyester fabrics. In my line of work I get to see HUNDREDS AND HUNDREDS of crashed jackets. I'm entirely comfortable with Nylon garments, but would seriously stay away from Polyester.

Keep in mind Corduras are typically just branded nylon fabrics or some kind of nylon blend. And then you have Kevlar, Dyneema, etc. which all have favorable properties as reinforcing material, but drawbacks as the primary materials. Bottom line, high quality mesh textiles, that allow for more enjoyment due to comfort, as well as the safety that comes from not being overheated/uncomfortable/dehydrated/restricted, all while still offering a high degree of protection in most realistic crash scenarios, make PERFECT sense in Texas weather.
 
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