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The DR/DRZ Thread

A DR-Z with a big bore is like a draft horse. You probably won't run it quite like I do. So, you know, it might last.
 
I'm not exactly outright turning it down, just giving Chris first shot at it. Besides, we both know it's not going in the hello kitty pack, he's gonna need help and tools to install it. ;)
 
That's awfully nice of you Jasen. Are you still feeling guilty about nabbing that sweet seven-fiddy out from under me? ;)

I did just turn 25K miles on the prodigal SM, but I can't decide whether to interpret that as another milestone on the way to some imaginary high score, or as... "it's big bore time!"

Problem is, you're right: if I just take the parts home, they'll just sit there like that box o' Bilsteins. (Admittedly I have been a bit distracted lately.)

So I am gonna put myself third in line here, behind Jasen and Wall-of-Shame. (The beauty of WoS is that they would be standing by for the next incident. Just among ourselves there's already a one-in-three chance.)
 
not selling, more like gifting. I am replacing it, there is a ding in the piston, but it all looks alright. I wouldn't feel comfortable selling it. I would recommend at least new rings and of course the piston clip. Cadillac would be to go new piston and rings. But at min you will need an E model base gasket from Suzuki, a Millenium works head gasket for the 94 mm cylinder, rings for their piston, and a circlip.

If you are interested, my other 2 DR-Z buddies are passing, so it is up to you, sir. If you want it, I could ship it tomorrow. I will let you know the shipping cost and you could reimburse me if you are so inclined.

Let me know, nothing spectacular, but the price is right, I'd say.
 
Well, we continue. First, with correct tools and tiny bit of patience, all of this is easy. I bought a really nice Motion Pro Bearing Driver, aluminum and such nice range of sizes. With that, I hammered out all the bearings I could easily drive out of the case. I also used my trusty heat gun set on stun to heat the case as I tapped out the bearings. Then, I got out my blind bearing puller I bought off of eBay for $49.00. I popped out the rest of the bearings in the other case with that. Wow! Tools work. I had to grind one of them a bit to fit the balancer bearing, but after a lot of effort I got them all out. No case damage, not even cussing. It was a very successful effort. I think I am going to go buy a parts washer shortly so I can clean everything up and get on with building this puppy, I have forgotten how loud she can be. Can't wait to fire her up again.

Post Split, right side case, pretty clean for 21 or 22 k miles and the abuse she has suffered.

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Left side case, with all the blind bearings...

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Singles are so simple inside.

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All bearings out without any foul language!!!

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This is as far as we go with this one. Now cleaning and tapping in new bearings, putting it together, tote it over and stick her in the frame. So easy, so simple. What could happen?

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Didn''t knock out the ones for the shifter and the shift drum. I can't get them out with the tools I have. Hoping I have all my seals and such. We shall see.
 
Did you forget one?

Reality is, they don't wear out, like ever...Destroyed motors with tons of junk in them and......the shift drum bearings are just inf... they only support a slight rotation...so even when oil is chock full of crud, the bearing seems to survive.

I have one on the shelf, set out for many builds for builds I KNEW would need ever bearing...and back to the spares it goes after the build each and every time.
 
Thanks Erik, I haven't found a bad part in the thing, but it has 20k+ on it and I bounce off of my E Model rev limiter all the time. I am considering dropping in some new stage II cams with the decompressor and putting in a SM box to lower the rev limit for longevity. Just haven't decided if I want to do that. I certainly don't want to rebuild another head.

But, Eddie Sisneros did the work on that head, and I don't think he used the "good stuff". I also paid for +1mm valves and didn't get them. So what are the odds he didn't put in the correct springs? So, since I sent it to APE, I am hoping their work is as good as it looks.

More to come, tapping in bearings should be fun as well. But I need to clean it all up first.
 
When Eddie did good work it was good, but it was not all good...... and I'll leave it at that.

As you all to well know, the motor has signed off before it hits the limiter, its no longer making power.. so no reason to ride it there a lot... up to, or hold it there to finish a corner or crest a hill sure.. but just riding it at 10.5 or so is a waste...SHIFT...lol I don't think your loosing any longevity running an E CDI for an additional 500 RPM.

HC Stage 2 with auto Decomp are a ok cam...Just put them in a 4mm stroked, 94mm BB, 39mm FCR, ACT trans build. They have enough overlap you can run 93 and not ping it to death...but just...

This owner wanted the Auto decomp, and last i checked I cant get that in my preferred WEB cam grind.

APE work on the head should be solid, all i have sent them have been>
I have a new smaller speed shop Im wanting to try for head work.... They talk a big game, have the right machines and seem to have the right knowledge....but proof is in the part returned and I have not had a need to use them yet....maybe next month though if a guy who contacted me pulls the trigger on a build.

Oh and tapping in bearings should be fun as well."

Heat the cases ...HOT!!!!!! 215~250 deg or so...Use a temp gun to check your work... case is a huge heat sink and most never get them hot enough to really help.....and freeze the bearings and they will fall in or take just a little help.
Use a puller to pull the crank in, seen more than a few cranks pressed out of whack with just cranking on case bolts.

After install, flood the bearing with water displacement lube of your choice, the bears will have condensation and are super susceptible to flash rust and pitting if not rid of the water immediately.

Thanks Erik, I haven't found a bad part in the thing, but it has 20k+ on it and I bounce off of my E Model rev limiter all the time. I am considering dropping in some new stage II cams with the decompressor and putting in a SM box to lower the rev limit for longevity. Just haven't decided if I want to do that. I certainly don't want to rebuild another head.

But, Eddie Sisneros did the work on that head, and I don't think he used the "good stuff". I also paid for +1mm valves and didn't get them. So what are the odds he didn't put in the correct springs? So, since I sent it to APE, I am hoping their work is as good as it looks.

More to come, tapping in bearings should be fun as well. But I need to clean it all up first.
 
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I wonder if I could just dry them with the heat gun? Thanks for the advice, bearings go in the fridge shortly. I will heat up the cases and monitor the temperature. I noticed the screws holding the bearings the spacer by the kickstart and the oil pump were not all loctited. The ones that were, looked blue. Do you use red? Thanks.
 
I wonder if I could just dry them with the heat gun? Thanks for the advice, bearings go in the fridge shortly. I will heat up the cases and monitor the temperature. I noticed the screws holding the bearings the spacer by the kickstart and the oil pump were not all loctited. The ones that were, looked blue. Do you use red? Thanks.

Color is not a strength .....it changes by brand and type.

I use high strength on a motor Im likely to take apart next time as i know I will heat up that screw before trying to take it out.
I use medium strength on all others. The service manual states to use either High strength or Medium strength... Techs choice.
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Ok, Here we go, assembling, assembling we go. I got the bearings popped in, rebuilt the water pump and "glued" the cases together. I am waiting on a buddy to come hold my wrench so I can properly torque the primary and continue. So far it has gone well. I only sealed it once, and I am building her up.

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So, today, I got a lot further. Things that are difficult are fairly rare. But the complications were a little frustrating, but I worked through them. The little arm that holds the shift drum and its associatd spring were the hardest part. So, anyway, I played swap the shims for about an hour. So I got the clearances spot on for my cams. I also was frustrated because I didn't have a thermostat gasket, and as luck would have it, I don't need one. So, hopefully tomorrow I can lift the puppy into the frame. I plan to do three heat cycles (run until the fan comes on) and then let it cool in between. Then a slow ride up the driveway, gas it for a bit, then change the oil. Then ride her like I stole her some more!!!!

First, I had trouble yesterday with the clutch tightening up when I torqued it, turns out not only did I put the primary gear on backwards but it was draging on the retainer for the kickstarter spacer that I installed with the countersunk holes down.

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New oil pump, old one is perfect, so I have a great spare.

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I have become a master fisher of the cam chain. I cannot count how many times I dropped that puppy.

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Timing the cams is easy on the bench.

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APE redid my head, and also made my cam chain tensioner.

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Best part for me is having my name engraved on the head.

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Couple of tweaks later and Bob's your Uncle!

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And, so, another fine day spent in Pee Paws Scooter Shop.

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Got her assembled, haven't installed the chain, I lost the radiator cap, and I used all my 10W40 scooter oil on the Baby Bandit and the Gixxer. Good thing I am off tomorrow. I don't know where to get a DR-Z400 Radiator cap, but I think it is a common Suzuki item.

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She is a runner. Wow, I missed my baby. The thing handles ungodly well. I missed the riding on rails feeling. She is strong, handles well and the brakes are awesome.

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Is anyone is need of a drz400 swingarm? Free pickup only ... no shipping. Free chain? North Houston.
 

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