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Mad Scientist Tire Academy

If the outer plate is pressed in to tolerance (same as the other non-clip link measurement) and the clip itself is installed blunt end forward, and the link overall is inspected for wear (like the rest of the chain should be), then I shouldn't think clip type master links should be delivering these results.

dunno about all that installation stuff since it is the chain that was on the bike when i got her. but as for the overall inspection, i may have gotten lax lately...i'm a little ocd about cleaning and lubing but now i require readers to really SEE the chain...dang it sux gettin old
 
We're talkin' about returning to Ole Mexico in the fall with the dirty bikes. This time with at least one chain tool fo' sho'
 
well, i may be letting the cat out of the bag prematurely....he is looking at a suzuki 250. hush now.

oh, and hush yore mouth--i'll keep Sally til i'm too old to throw a leg over her.
 
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[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6Ld7MjIbvo"]Original Safety Seal Video - YouTube[/ame]

Fast forward to about the 4:50 mark in the video to see a demo of what I consider the BEST tire plug kit on the market, for motos, cars, trucks etc with tubeless tires.

I carry this kit on the 1200 GSA and there's one in my truck

Be aware that:

(1) Safety Seal makes two sizes of string plugs

(2) The addition of additional plugs and/or rubber cement may make or break certain plug attempts

(3) Gas station style plug kits are an order of magnitude inferior to Safety Seal

(4) You have to practice with this kit as is always preached here, as tire skills are perishable skills
 
I need one of those yellow crayons that doesn't break. There's probably a coffee can full of broken pieces laying around here.
 
We're talkin' about returning to Ole Mexico in the fall with the dirty bikes. This time with at least one chain tool fo' sho'

Yes a chain press should be used even with clip type master link. I have seen them preyed, beaten, squeezed one side at a time and treated with all manner of disrespect. The clip can get sprung from poor install or removal. The clip needs to slide straight in or out of the grooves.

There will always be those who rivet as it is no doubt a more secure method if done properly. There are those who will clip due to the fact they can remove on the road/trail side if necessary. Which ever you chose be sure to use proper tools and techniques to ensure they work as designed. Then follow up with inspection on some frequency.

I carry one of these small press tools and spare link. I recommend to order spare master links when replacing chain so you know you have the correct links for your chain.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0070

They also make a special plier for clip install. These are not a must have but, they allow you to push straight on the clip.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0230


One last thought about chains and spare parts. Those who truly ride remote areas need to consider carrying a short piece 5-6 links of matching chain as a damaged chain usually requires removing a damaged section. This requires a chain breaker to remove the damaged section and will require 2 master links to connect the replacement section.
 
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I carry one of these small press tools and spare link. I recommend to order spare master links when replacing chain so you know you have the correct links for your chain.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0070

They also make a special plier for clip install. These are not a must have but, they allow you to push straight on the clip.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0070

Your second link directly above wasn't of the pliers, but a repeat of your first link. But I did find what you were thinking of on Amazon.

i-rj6J7Gx-M.jpg


But having studied it and reading "one tip is shorter and notched....", I figured that I could take an existing pair of pliers and grind down one side and put a groove in it, which is what I'm about to do in the Mad Scientist Laboratory. Save $18 and have the exact same tool. I'll report back on how it goes.....
 
Your second link directly above wasn't of the pliers, but a repeat of your first link. But I did find what you were thinking of on Amazon.

i-rj6J7Gx-M.jpg


But having studied it and reading "one tip is shorter and notched....", I figured that I could take an existing pair of pliers and grind down one side and put a groove in it, which is what I'm about to do in the Mad Scientist Laboratory. Save $18 and have the exact same tool. I'll report back on how it goes.....

Thanks I have corrected the link.
 
I had my chain put on by TJs in north Austin. Didn't bother to check it again. It stretched pretty bad over and the masterlibk fell off a couple thousand miles later :doh: lesson learned
 
I had my chain put on by TJs in north Austin. Didn't bother to check it again. It stretched pretty bad over and the masterlibk fell off a couple thousand miles later :doh: lesson learned

I found a really good video in you're in the market to switch to rivet links

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mf6qRY0Syo"]How to install a new motorcycle chain and how to rivet the master link - YouTube[/ame]
 
I have a question back on tire changing, I watched the videos, they were very good, he used window cleaner for lube, what about, lock lube or dry lube, it sprays on then dries very quickly, leaving a graphite residue, would it also help next time you changed the tire.
 
I personally wouldn't use a lock/graphite lube but that's me. The graphite would not dissipate. Especially on a rear tire on a high HP/high torque bike.

I have a full gallon of the best stuff on the planet: Safety Seal Tire Mounting Lube.

Come by and you can have a jar of it for free.
 
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To those who buy in bulk (hey Bob): what container do you use to carry a small amount with you on the bike?

I'd like to find something as strong as a Pelican case, just big enough for a couple of ounces, and sealed enough to not leak when mistreated and banging around inside a tank bag / tool bag.
 
Yea I had that idea, posted it then had to leave, after I had waited, and thought about it, I realized it wouldn't be a good Idea.
 
To those who buy in bulk (hey Bob): what container do you use to carry a small amount with you on the bike?

I'd like to find something as strong as a Pelican case, just big enough for a couple of ounces, and sealed enough to not leak when mistreated and banging around inside a tank bag / tool bag.

I use a "Smokeless Tabaco" can inside a small tackle box that contains all my flat fixing tools.
 
To those who buy in bulk (hey Bob): what container do you use to carry a small amount with you on the bike?

I'd like to find something as strong as a Pelican case, just big enough for a couple of ounces, and sealed enough to not leak when mistreated and banging around inside a tank bag / tool bag.

I keep that stuff in an old plastic film container wrapped in gaffers tape.
 
I personally wouldn't use a lock/graphite lube but that's me. The graphite would not dissipate. Especially on a rear tire on a high HP/high torque bike.

I have a full gallon of the best stuff on the planet: Safety Seal Tire Mounting Lube.

Come by and you can have a jar of it for free.
If it's a high horsepower bike it should have a rim lock.
 
I carry small generic travel tube thing you can typically find in a CVS or Wal Mart. It has never busted.

More is better when it comes to tire lube.
 
This is how you do it: (click on "watch this video on YouTube")

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DY6h83rTX-U"]LINK[/ame]

Actually this is from an epic ride report on ADV:

The Pan American Trail

30729749158_72dff9ba4c_b.jpg


30729743218_ec92a5031e_b.jpg


You really should check out that ride report. Unlike anything I've seen.
 
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