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I dont understand. I thought you did a dyno, then changed something like exhaust or timing and then did it again to measure the effect. What is dyno tuning?
That is normally the way you would do it - make a run stock and then change things, make another run to see how much power you gained. To get the most power out of your setup though, you'd make several runs under varied load and watch the air/fuel ratio on the gas analyzer. Based on the results, you adjust your injection map (on fuel injected vehicles, you'd change needles and jets in a carbuerated vehicle) to keep your air/fuel ratio where you want it. While doing so may not seem like a huge difference in terms of peak power - you can see that it did manage to fill out my power curve clear across the band, particularly at the low end and again up top. Had I the time, or money - I would have done this when the bike was totally stock for a true baseline, then remapped the stock fuel map the same way. For this run I already had a full exhaust and a "high flow" air filter (which I only buy for the ability to clean.) as well as my Power Commander III USB.
Got it. So you had already done the parts swap. This was just fine tuning of the air/fuel ratios within the PowerCommander. I definitely saw the difference. Significant improvement across the entire band.
As a general rule EPA exhaust sniffing and engine noise testing is done in the 2000 to 5000 range so most manufacturers purposely lean the motors out in this RPM range to pass emmssions. Fattening them up in that range usually provides significant improvements not only in power but in mileage simply by putting the fueling closer to stoichiometric(ei perfect air fuel ratio approx 14 to 1)
SRAD
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