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CB750 DOHC - oil leak from intake cam chain adjustor

mitchntx

Follower of Rev. Doug
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Location
Whitney
First Name
Mitch
Last Name
Warren
Need a bit of guidance ...

1982 CB750F super sport has developed a nasty oil leak from the intake cam chain tensioner adjuster. It appears from the parts schematic, to be a simple bolt/locking nut with an O-ring.

But having never been inside a DOHC Honda in-line 4, I don't know if it's a mechanical jenga puzzle in there or simply a bolt pushing against a tensioner slide.

My fear is backing this bolt out to get at the O-ring and hearing a part or two rattle it's way into the bottom end.

Here are a couple images from parts fiche ...

i-VNKfV6N-XL.jpg


#20 is the O-ring I seek to replace. It either fits onto the tensioner below the locking nut or into a machined lip of the head.

i-rpR8TWg-XL.jpg


And exploded view of the tensioner itself ... again, #20 is the O-ring.

My concern is the plug #19. If I back the tensioner all the way out to replace the O-ring, what keeps the plug in place? And then, without tension, does the mechanism fold like a cheap suit and the spring is released and falls along with the dampening sleeve #s 12 & 13.

#21 appears to be a fastener that holds the fixture in place, but I see two places where the whole fixture can articulate. The articulating is what scares me.

Oh sure, I could pop the valve cover and get a better look. But the bike is a survivor

i-PNW7Q2v-X2.jpg


It appears to have never had any of the covers off. Who knows what the domino effect might be once a I breech a 36 year old factory sealed motor. Paranoia is high because parts are not easy to come by.

It took months to cobble together enough usable parts to put a starter solenoid together without having to butcher the factory harness. :eek2:
 
EM ...
I have a valve cover gasket and replacement O-ring on hand.
But none of the tensioner components are available


JC ...
I had run across that video and it's good info.
Although it didn't address my concerns about removing (instead of backing off) the intake side adjuster, you did. Thanks.

But to be honest, I don't see why, the valve cover needs to come off to adjust the chain tension.
 
But to be honest, I don't see why, the valve cover needs to come off to adjust the chain tension.
It does not, technically.. You adjust both cam chains externally.. BUT, visually observing the B chain tension (cam to cam) is the better way to adjust it vice "feel" I think, and how Id do it.

And I thought you said no gasket was available, so why I mentioned they were.

Unless it s a mega mile motor or the adjusters were significantly over tightened, the cam chain guides commonly are ok.

If the bike was stored un used for a long time and not prepped (oil fogging the motor) take a look at the cam chain springs.... they tend to rust when not covered in oil, which drains off, evaporates and leaves those uncoated high carbon steel springs vulnerable to rust, then fracture when put back in service.
 
It was more rhetorical than specific.

The motor has 17K miles total and had a few hundred per year since 2000, according to maintenance records that came with it.

Understand the reasoning behind valve cover removal.
 
I'll be down in the morning with some J-B Weld. Problem solved. :trust:
 
My first proper motorcycle was that exact same model and color!! Was a great bike but the silencers all rotted out in no time!! :)

Gary
 
Update ...

After the slacker ride Thursday, Doug and I tackled the above mentioned O-ring with great success. Took about an hour ... mostly fiddling with new valve cover gasket.

A LOT of oil dribbled off the exposed head and made a huge mess to the point I thought oil was weeping from the head gasket. But a thorough ****** of degreaser and a simple green bath found the culprit ... residual oil.

Changed the oil and filter. Geez ... is that canister filter a fiddly design. I took it all apart and replaced every o-ring and seat.

but then another annoyance reared it's head ... the starter clutch.

I pulled the side cover today, found the 3 bolts had indeed backed out.

I removed the assembly, cleaned and reassembled with red loctite as directed by the service manual.

It is better, but still disengages on occasion. I ordered a rebuild kit for the clutch and the necessary gaskets from Vintage CB750.

The ultimate fix is alter an R6 clutch ... I am watching one on ebay now in case the rebuild kits doesn't work out.

I need to take pics don't I ....
 
Yep. The inside of the CB750 is truly magical. I had a little trouble wrapping my brain around the design. But, luckily Mitch knew what we were doing and got me up to speed. I am impressed at the way they capture the little plugs on the end of the valve cover in the gasket. The DR-Z/TLR/TLS motors usually have to put a little RTV in the bottom to seal. Works well, but I liked the Honda method. That was a Honda built back when you could work on them easily. I have been working on a 2009 CBR1000R Repsol and you have to just about disassemble the entire bike to adjust the throttle cables. Very annoying. I think they do it for fun.
 
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