The DR/DRZ Thread

Hail said:

Got some warp 9 runs for my DRZ today. It is going to be so nice not having to change tire between street and off road!


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Using the Warp 9's for dirt since it does not have a speedo drive?

Spare wheels is icing on the cake for sure. When I was riding the DRZ every weekend and some week days, I had three sets
Soft dirt/ mud.. Hardpack and rocks, 17's for street. The only additional hassle was swapping th brake caliper adapter on and off going from the small rotor dirt wheels to the 320mm Sm rotor

E.Marquez said:

Using the Warp 9's for dirt since it does not have a speedo drive?



Spare wheels is icing on the cake for sure. When I was riding the DRZ every weekend and some week days, I had three sets

Soft dirt/ mud.. Hardpack and rocks, 17's for street. The only additional hassle was swapping th brake caliper adapter on and off going from the small rotor dirt wheels to the 320mm Sm rotor

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I use the trail tech vapor on my S model. But I am glad you brought it up I need to order a new magnetic bolt for the rotor. I don't have any SM rims. Just setting up for DS and pure dirt.



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Hail said:

Got some warp 9 runs for my DRZ today. It is going to be so nice not having to change tire between street and off road!


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Sorry to hear you got the runs!!!! Warp 9 must be a literal pain in the butt!!!! LOL

rpcraft said:

Sorry to hear you got the runs!!!! Warp 9 must be a literal pain in the butt!!!! LOL

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I have the runs much more than my bike. Just ask my wife.

Hail said:

...I don't have any SM rims. Just setting up for DS and pure dirt.

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Ok Brad I'm gonna play devil's advocate and pick on ya to open this discussion. If 17" SM wheelset I would've understood but not.

What tire selections are we talking here to give a big enough difference between DS and pure dirt to make the wheel swapping worthwhile? Even aggressive dirt rubber have decent road manners and the difference in longevity is not great unless you're going with Heidenau's or similar for DS. DOT tires are not needed to be street legal. Requirement is they cannot be marked "Off highway use only". Maxxis tires are excellent dirt rubber that meet this.

_

Went for a ride today around SHNF. There were many trees down which made it fun. All the trails were closed but the roads were in excellent condition!!!




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How convenient that I came across this thread tonight. I just want to say that I've put only 850 miles on my dr650 so far and I can't believe how much I still get excited while riding it. I've had a handful of bikes of different types in the past and have never felt this way about any of them. I'm sure there are better bikes out there, but man I couldn't be happier with this one.

Welcome to the dr forum ya hillbilly! I feel the same way when I ride mine.

TXHillbilly said:

How convenient that I came across this thread tonight. I just want to say that I've put only 850 miles on my dr650 so far and I can't believe how much I still get excited while riding it. I've had a handful of bikes of different types in the past and have never felt this way about any of them. I'm sure there are better bikes out there, but man I couldn't be happier with this one.

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Welcome TXHillbilly!
I think everyone has that "one bike" that just fits! The DR650 fits me well. Hope you enjoy yours.


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Has anyone put handlebar risers on their DR? I just bought a pair of 30mm from Tusk and was wondering what the pros/cons were.

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Let us know how they work out. I have had cable links issues with taller handlebars. Not to mention tons of issues with trying to mount all the stuff on the bars .

I put risers on mine with 1-1/8 pro tapers and I had to deviate from the cable routing in the manual, however it is possible and I haven't had any issues with pinching or breaking cables since

ICDRrider said:

Has anyone put handlebar risers on their DR? I just bought a pair of 30mm from Tusk and was wondering what the pros/cons were.

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I have and there really aren't any, especially if you are taller than 5 ft 6. It's a great way of extending the reach of the bars and getting them off your knees.

Installed them over the weekend. It took about half an hour. Not rerouting required. The difference it makes while standing is immediately noticeable. I am more comfortable. I have better confidence and control.

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'm looking for some carburetor help. I am rebuilding my carburetor and I thought I had all my jets in order but now I'm concerned that I am reassembling incorrectly. The bike is a 2001 DRZ400e with the Keihin FCR 39 Flatslide carburetor.

In the first picture jets are labeled by number on the photo.
1.Pilot Jet 45
2.Main Jet and needle jet 160
3.Starter choke jet 65
4.Pilot mixture screw



I think they are all in the correct position. The pilot mixture screw presents a question. I counted the turns as directed on removal and came up with 8.5 turns. When I removed the pilot mixture screw I didn't see an o-ring but one was found in the cleaning of the carburetor. When I place the spring followed by the washer then the o-ring it seems to bottom out before the threads catch. So should I force it or am I missing something. If I screw in the pilot screw without the o-ring it becomes tight at 8 turns. Any help on this would be appreciated.

Second picture.
1. Pilot air jet 60
2. Main air jet 200



One thing the bike was doing was bogging down on quick full throttle. I checked the throttle sensor and it doesn't look right to me. Picture 3 shows the carburetor side of the equation which looks like the electrical side of the connection would be like a blade on a regular screwdriver.



Instead as you can barely see in picture 4 it has two ridges which looks like it is made to mate with a blade type of connection on the carburetor side.



Is this normal or is the electrical side from a different carburetor/bike?

Any help is appreciated. This is my first carburetor rebuild so I may be over my head.

Ask E Marquez. He dreams about that stuff.

TxTiger said:

Ask E Marquez. He dreams about that stuff.

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Lol

I think that's actually spelled n I g h t m a r e

On the road trying to get home long couple of days teaching class I'll take a look when I get to the house

1.Pilot Jet 45
2.Main Jet and needle jet 160
3.Starter choke jet 65
Correct
4.Pilot mixture screw
The fuel screw as pictured is missing the small steel washer and the o ring.

Second picture.
1. Pilot air jet 60
2. Main air jet 200
Correct

The pilot mixture screw presents a question. I counted the turns as directed on removal and came up with 8.5 turns. When I removed the pilot mixture screw I didn't see an o-ring but one was found in the cleaning of the carburetor. When I place the spring followed by the washer then the o-ring it seems to bottom out before the threads catch. So should I force it or am I missing something. If I screw in the pilot screw without the o-ring it becomes tight at 8 turns.

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1st NO DO NOT FORCE the pilot screw in place, that will render that FCR a paper weight. repairing threads in that body is not a $$$ option.
pilot screw turns are measued coming OUT.. So you lightly seat it and then come OUT 3-----3.5----3 3/4....ect. When removing the pilot screw you get a base line ciurent setting my screwing it in till lightly seated....in now way shoud it have been 8 turns out.

OEM Spec on the pilot screw is 1 1/2 turns out.

Thanks, that really helps. Any thoughts on the TPS? It sure doesn't look like a match between the two parts.

Any news on the carb... was the tps?

I have the carb reassembled and I will install it Sunday or Monday. The TPS cannot be a matched set. (Set being carb side and then the electrical side) The two just don't have anything in common. I'm still looking for a picture on the internet showing what the electrical side should look like.

Another question. I feel pretty confident that I did everything right on the inside but I'm having some doubts about the hose connections. I don't have any leftover hoses but this spot on the carb looks like a place for a hose. Is it or is it nothing to deal with?



I also took the carb by a Suzuki dealer to discuss the throttle position sensor. I stated it didn't look like a match. They looked at it for a while and then said it should be okay. Since I had made a piece to make sure there is a mate, I ran some electrical tests before and after. Before inserting my part the resistance made no change from 0 to full throttle. With my piece installed the resistance went from 4000 ohm to 2000 ohm on full throttle. I left my piece inside.

The bike will not start so I want to get some feedback on the hose question. If there is no change then I will double check the spark and then go back to looking at the carb as my problem.
Thanks

Almost seems like you've got an FCR from a different bike.

The hose nipple you referenced is the ACV (air cut valve)/coast enricher. It's vacuum operated, and provides a slightly richer fuel mixture when you let off the throttle. This cancels the *pop, pop, pop* on decel you sometimes hear on other bikes without it. It needs to be connected to a vacuum source that's downstream of the throttle valve.

It could be a different carb from the original. I bought the bike which had 2 previous owners. Thanks for the input, I will see if I can find a fitting to attach this to.

That being said, your early E model WAS equipped with a slant body FCR with an air cut valve from the factory, so there SHOULD be a place to connect it, though.... if memory serves, it was via a T fitting on the vacuum lines.

I don't remember the factory slant body FCR that came on these having a removable intake bell, but I may be wrong