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I disable the kickstand switch too.
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The Honda CRF250L Thread
- Thread starter jimhaleyscomet
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It's a pretty basic system used on the LRP and the clutch switch is not wired through the brain for the fuel or ignition in a way that would set a fault code.
I wonder what someone at Honda was thinking when they decided to move the switches around?
This is not the only bike they have done it on.
I wonder what someone at Honda was thinking when they decided to move the switches around?
This is not the only bike they have done it on.
cwadej
0
Kickstand switch removed. I pulled the entire thin, shorting the wires at the connector by the battery.
Clutch switch bypassed at the factory harness. Green / Orange and Green /Red.
Now to go find a place to ride. Loving this little bike.
Clutch switch bypassed at the factory harness. Green / Orange and Green /Red.
Now to go find a place to ride. Loving this little bike.
cwadej
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what do you mean "move the switches around" ?
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I went and looked one over in El Campo a few weeks ago. The owner of that shop goes to our church, might sweet talk him into a deal, maybe. LOL I have to pay off a debt or two anyway before I'll worry much about it.
They had a Suzuki 200cc dual sport there for $700 off, quite a bit lighter and should be more off road worthy, but it wouldn't be as road worthy. The Honda could easily ride on the highways around here, doubt the Suzuki would like a 70 mph speed limit with a head wind. It's a lot simpler engine, though, and the bike is already a bargain.
That Honda is heavy, but it's a lot lighter than my KLR. I really don't do much highway riding anymore, but would like the ability. Fortunately, I have time to conger this problem.
They had a Suzuki 200cc dual sport there for $700 off, quite a bit lighter and should be more off road worthy, but it wouldn't be as road worthy. The Honda could easily ride on the highways around here, doubt the Suzuki would like a 70 mph speed limit with a head wind. It's a lot simpler engine, though, and the bike is already a bargain.
That Honda is heavy, but it's a lot lighter than my KLR. I really don't do much highway riding anymore, but would like the ability. Fortunately, I have time to conger this problem.
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They went and moved the horn button above the turn signal switch after building bikes with the horn button on the bottom for almost 50 years.
cwadej
0
I went and looked one over in El Campo a few weeks ago. The owner of that shop goes to our church, might sweet talk him into a deal, maybe. LOL I have to pay off a debt or two anyway before I'll worry much about it.
They had a Suzuki 200cc dual sport there for $700 off, quite a bit lighter and should be more off road worthy, but it wouldn't be as road worthy. The Honda could easily ride on the highways around here, doubt the Suzuki would like a 70 mph speed limit with a head wind. It's a lot simpler engine, though, and the bike is already a bargain.
That Honda is heavy, but it's a lot lighter than my KLR. I really don't do much highway riding anymore, but would like the ability. Fortunately, I have time to conger this problem.
I read this when deciding on a small dual sport. Had been looking at the KLX.
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/reviews/backyard-adventure-mc-comparo
cwadej
0
got ya. I didnt know if you meant the clutch switch and such.
Another 80 miles of mostly road, maybe 15 of dirt. Come summer I wont be scared of the giant mud puddles that make me turn around like today.
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What sort of luggage racks are available for the CRF? One thing I love about my KLR650 is the HUUUUGE (as Trump would say) and strong luggage rack which I can strap down 2 50 lb bags of corn on to take back to the feeder. The KLR doubles as my ATV...a street legal ATV at that. I really don't NEED the extra power of a 650 if the CRF will do the speed limit. Everything is 70 mph highways around here and I'll put on maybe 100 miles on a ride, could do that with the 250. So, I've given thought to downsizing, but it'll be later on, not right now. I've got a truck payment right now.
The KLR doubles as my ATV...a street legal ATV at that. I really don't NEED the extra power of a 650 if the CRF will do the speed limit. Everything is 70 mph highways around here and I'll put on maybe 100 miles on a ride, could do that with the 250. So, I've given thought to downsizing, but it'll be later on, not right now. I've got a truck payment right now.
Lots of rack options out there, just google "crf250l rack", and check out the images.
According to the Owners manual, the bike is designed to carry only 351lbs of rider, passenger, and luggage, and only 10lbs of that as luggage. I believe that tells us, the seating area is pretty stout, but past that, things get sketchy. There have been many reports of the rear subframe fracturing if asked to support too much weight, too far back, such as on a rack with panniers attached. In order to safely carry much weight for long trips, I suggest you use soft systems that go over the rear of the seat and angle forward, like the Giant Loop products, http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/664481_10152295202950601_1334742972_o.jpg
and/or a rack that attaches to the main frame, such as the CycleRacks product: http://cycleracks.com/ProductDetail/tabid/87/ProductID/50/Default.aspx
Also of note, the stock shock spring is very weak (not so much the forks), as is the rebound dampening on that shock. I weigh in around 190 with gear and a small tail pack with 7lbs of water and tools, and even with the preload maxed on the shock, I can still easily bottom out on deep whoops at speed. Not super hard, but I can feel the suspension reaching the limit of its travel.
Adding much more cargo, or a passenger, would make that a big deal, so expect to purchase an aftermarket shock right away. YSS makes one that is affordable ($350) and functional. RaceTech makes one that is twice the price and much nicer.
Let us know how it goes.
According to the Owners manual, the bike is designed to carry only 351lbs of rider, passenger, and luggage, and only 10lbs of that as luggage. I believe that tells us, the seating area is pretty stout, but past that, things get sketchy. There have been many reports of the rear subframe fracturing if asked to support too much weight, too far back, such as on a rack with panniers attached. In order to safely carry much weight for long trips, I suggest you use soft systems that go over the rear of the seat and angle forward, like the Giant Loop products, http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/664481_10152295202950601_1334742972_o.jpg
and/or a rack that attaches to the main frame, such as the CycleRacks product: http://cycleracks.com/ProductDetail/tabid/87/ProductID/50/Default.aspx
Also of note, the stock shock spring is very weak (not so much the forks), as is the rebound dampening on that shock. I weigh in around 190 with gear and a small tail pack with 7lbs of water and tools, and even with the preload maxed on the shock, I can still easily bottom out on deep whoops at speed. Not super hard, but I can feel the suspension reaching the limit of its travel.
Adding much more cargo, or a passenger, would make that a big deal, so expect to purchase an aftermarket shock right away. YSS makes one that is affordable ($350) and functional. RaceTech makes one that is twice the price and much nicer.
Let us know how it goes.
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Lots of rack options out there, just google "crf250l rack", and check out the images.
According to the Owners manual, the bike is designed to carry only 351lbs of rider, passenger, and luggage, and only 10lbs of that as luggage. I believe that tells us, the seating area is pretty stout, but past that, things get sketchy. There have been many reports of the rear subframe fracturing if asked to support too much weight, too far back, such as on a rack with panniers attached. In order to safely carry much weight for long trips, I suggest you use soft systems that go over the rear of the seat and angle forward, like the Giant Loop products, http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/664481_10152295202950601_1334742972_o.jpg
and/or a rack that attaches to the main frame, such as the CycleRacks product: http://cycleracks.com/ProductDetail/tabid/87/ProductID/50/Default.aspx
Also of note, the stock shock spring is very weak (not so much the forks), as is the rebound dampening on that shock. I weigh in around 190 with gear and a small tail pack with 7lbs of water and tools, and even with the preload maxed on the shock, I can still easily bottom out on deep whoops at speed. Not super hard, but I can feel the suspension reaching the limit of its travel.
Adding much more cargo, or a passenger, would make that a big deal, so expect to purchase an aftermarket shock right away. YSS makes one that is affordable ($350) and functional. RaceTech makes one that is twice the price and much nicer.
Let us know how it goes.
Mmm, well, don't sound like the bike for me.
cwadej
0
I grew tired of the front brake line over the dash this weekend.
Sooo....
suck the reservoir dry.
disconnect the front line at the reservoir.
disconnect the hose guide at top of left hand for tube.
extend forks fully, and mark the hose at the top of the lower hose guide.
pull the heat shrink from the top of the stiff outer hose cover. you'll reuse it later.
cut the outer cover from the top to the mark, then cut around the cover and remove it.
slide the heat shrink down to cover the new top of the outer cover.
look behind the headlight, there's a small "tunnel" that the hose will fit through.
push the brake hose from left to right through this "tunnel"
re-attach hose to the reservoir, with banjo pointing down.
a small loop is formed on the left side not a problem.
refill reservoir.
gently playing the brake lever was enough to get all the air out, took about 20 actuations, just watch for bubbles to stop.
rode almost 100 miles, 20 of it off road. no issues, and no brake line over the dash!!
Sooo....
suck the reservoir dry.
disconnect the front line at the reservoir.
disconnect the hose guide at top of left hand for tube.
extend forks fully, and mark the hose at the top of the lower hose guide.
pull the heat shrink from the top of the stiff outer hose cover. you'll reuse it later.
cut the outer cover from the top to the mark, then cut around the cover and remove it.
slide the heat shrink down to cover the new top of the outer cover.
look behind the headlight, there's a small "tunnel" that the hose will fit through.
push the brake hose from left to right through this "tunnel"
re-attach hose to the reservoir, with banjo pointing down.
a small loop is formed on the left side not a problem.
refill reservoir.
gently playing the brake lever was enough to get all the air out, took about 20 actuations, just watch for bubbles to stop.
rode almost 100 miles, 20 of it off road. no issues, and no brake line over the dash!!
I just joined the forum and I'm looking at a 2014 CRF 250L. The bike has almost 10k miles on it. I've owned Honda's before and know they are pretty bullet proof but how do you feel about this bike having that many miles? Anything to look for during a test ride?
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sorry for not seeing this sooner, you might look over on thumper talk, it has a crf250l section that is pretty active.
there are some people out there that have racked up a bunch of miles on theirs with nary a hick up.
it boils down to how the bike has been cared for, even though it spins pretty high rpm pretty much all the time Honda calls for pretty long oil change intervals. KTM's call for complete over hauls in the time it takes for the little honda to just call for a valve check.
water pump weep
the 250L is prone to weep a bit from the weep hole for the water pump, it is normal, Honda designed it to weep a bit. not all do it though.
tire pressures are important, lower pressures that help off road traction cause the bike to develop a weave above 55mph, raise the air pressure to stop it.
stock it is geared for the moon, switching the countershaft sprocket to a 13 tooth makes a big difference in performance.
for a dual sport 250 it has a very healthy charging system that has enough capacity to run electric jacket and glove liners, or extra lighting and accessories.
there are some people out there that have racked up a bunch of miles on theirs with nary a hick up.
it boils down to how the bike has been cared for, even though it spins pretty high rpm pretty much all the time Honda calls for pretty long oil change intervals. KTM's call for complete over hauls in the time it takes for the little honda to just call for a valve check.
water pump weep
the 250L is prone to weep a bit from the weep hole for the water pump, it is normal, Honda designed it to weep a bit. not all do it though.tire pressures are important, lower pressures that help off road traction cause the bike to develop a weave above 55mph, raise the air pressure to stop it.
stock it is geared for the moon, switching the countershaft sprocket to a 13 tooth makes a big difference in performance.
for a dual sport 250 it has a very healthy charging system that has enough capacity to run electric jacket and glove liners, or extra lighting and accessories.
J
Jarrett
Guest
Necrobump
Just got a CRF250L. Digging it.
I think I need to start looking at rear shocks. Looks like YSS, Race Tech and Ohlins all make something? Any recommendations?
I'd also like to get some folding mirrors and maybe relocate the front blinkers something less break prone. I like the idea of them being on the hand guards. Will that pass inspection?
At this point, does anyone know how far the bike will go on a tank with the stock tank? Only mods on my bike that might affect this are 13 tooth sprocket and Uni air filter.
Just got a CRF250L. Digging it.
I think I need to start looking at rear shocks. Looks like YSS, Race Tech and Ohlins all make something? Any recommendations?
I'd also like to get some folding mirrors and maybe relocate the front blinkers something less break prone. I like the idea of them being on the hand guards. Will that pass inspection?
At this point, does anyone know how far the bike will go on a tank with the stock tank? Only mods on my bike that might affect this are 13 tooth sprocket and Uni air filter.
My CRF250L is a 2014, I think. I always get over 60mpg (whenever I've checked), so that should be about 125 miles to a full tank.
I usually get over 65mpg and have exceeded 70mpg often, but I'm unsure how I'd do now. I've changed the rear sprocket, put on a full Yoshi, removed the screen from the front of the airfilter, and unhooked the O2 wire. It's noisier, with just a little bit more power. When I get the chance I'll check the mileage again.
I have a rear rack with the fitting to hold a 1.75gal Rotopax tank.
I usually get over 65mpg and have exceeded 70mpg often, but I'm unsure how I'd do now. I've changed the rear sprocket, put on a full Yoshi, removed the screen from the front of the airfilter, and unhooked the O2 wire. It's noisier, with just a little bit more power. When I get the chance I'll check the mileage again.
I have a rear rack with the fitting to hold a 1.75gal Rotopax tank.
J
Jarrett
Guest
Cool, thanks. I should probably buy one of those. Seems like it would get me over the 200 mile range.
J
Jarrett
Guest
Any tips on which Rotopax setup to get for the CRF250L?
Is the 1.75 the way to go?
Is the 1.75 the way to go?
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I used the 1.75 RotoPax for a while but when I finally got around to doing the heavy mods on the bike, I installed the Acerbis 3.3G AND the CamelTank. So, now I carry 4.8G, all plumbed in, and have about the same range as on my GSA and haven't worried since about running out of gas anywhere in Big Bend or rural Mexico where this bike spends most of its time. Overkill? Yes, but the peace of mind is well worth it.
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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I did the RaceTech rear and front plus the gold valve kit for the front. Super happy with it. Got everything at CRFsOnly.com, FWIW.
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SwampFox
0
Jarrett, a couple fellows I've met have been happy with the ManRacks "BBQ" rack with a 1-gallon RotoPax: http://www.manracks.com/product-page/honda-crf250l-rubicon-rally-rack-bbq-rack-w-rotopax-brkt
Our CRF250L has the ±3-gallon Acerbis tank, which I generally figure is good for 150 miles with a 30 miles reserve. (165 is max to date). By the way, the Acerbis tank is the primary reason we replaced the KLX250S with this CRF when a friend offered to sell.
Our CRF250L has the ±3-gallon Acerbis tank, which I generally figure is good for 150 miles with a 30 miles reserve. (165 is max to date). By the way, the Acerbis tank is the primary reason we replaced the KLX250S with this CRF when a friend offered to sell.
J
Jarrett
Guest
Wow, those are all good options. Thanks.
iqbalinc
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looking for people to ride the CRF250L Rally? I am in sugar Land TX but don't know any DS routes near. Sundays are my riding days...