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Old 03-20-2017, 10:05 PM   #81
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Re: DR350SE questions...

All that was done up front was raise the forks in the clamps. The suspension was set up by the seller prior to yours, so I don't know the spring rate. Can't remember his screen name, too many years ago but he was a member here.
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:13 PM   #82
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Re: DR350SE questions...

Roger that!

I've located a new OEM carb from Partzilla for $419. p/n 13200-14EP0 or 13200-14EP1. Can't figure out what the real part number is for a '96SE, but I'm getting close.

Again, thanks.
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Old 03-21-2017, 08:40 PM   #83
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Re: DR350SE questions...

So there's the cable issue to solve going back to OEM which makes an existing carb replacement more attractive in light of the history of issues with this one.

I'm however confused to what I actually might have installed in the bike. From the documents I received upon purchase, there is a parts listing with a diagram of what mine looks like and at the top it has "TM33 Parts" with many of the line items highlighted yellow. Then I also have another document which appears to be from a manual in a table format and under Carburetor it shows Type Specification as "TM33 SS". And finally I have another document which appears to be out of yet another manual and it's titled "Fuel and Lubrication System". It's from Chapter 4 of some manual. Handwritten on the front is "Mikuni TM33SS 'pumper' carb installed in owners DR350SE (1996)"

Poking around the internet, are these the same carb or different ones? The closest thing I can find on the 'net to an actual part number is a Mikuni TM33-8012. Is this the same as a what the documentation above points to?

I do know it has an alum spacer block on the head side and a push-pull cable system.

From conversations with the two previous owners, they both had issues with a bog of idle and I'm led to believe the carb on the bike is actually from some flavor of a DR but don't know which one.

Is it a fair assumption I'm looking for a TM33-8012 and that would just bolt right in place of what's there with no required mods?
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Old 03-22-2017, 11:09 AM   #84
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Re: DR350SE questions...

the TM33-8012 is a single cable flat slide carb ($207.98 on amazon uses twt link)

trick aftermarket carb. the dr350se for 1996 used a single cable actuated CV carb and the off road only DR350 used a flat slide carb with two cables but not the TM33-8012

in this picture the stock won't bog dr350se carb is on the left and the straight dr350 dirt carb is on the right.


the TM33-8012 is a popular upgrade carb that will require some fiddling with jets and needle positions to tune.
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Old 03-22-2017, 11:14 AM   #85
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Re: DR350SE questions...

Thanks Leon. I have the one on the right and it's a push-pull cable, not a single cable.

So what do I have then? Still confused.....
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Old 03-22-2017, 11:20 AM   #86
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Re: DR350SE questions...

arg! I hate "stock picture is not representative of actual carb" the carb on the right in that picture IS a TM33-8012

the stock carburetor for the dr350SE is a mikuni CVK
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Old 03-22-2017, 07:57 PM   #87
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Re: DR350SE questions...

All-righty..... I've been following a thread on ADVRider about a couple DR350 builds and the owner confirmed it's a TM33-8012 with 127.5 Main and 37.5 Pilot jets straight from Amazon.

Looks like I'll be surfing for one of those shortly and hopefully get this next problem solved!
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Old 03-22-2017, 09:17 PM   #88
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Re: DR350SE questions...

I punched in that number on Amazon and one popped right up, good price
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Old 03-29-2017, 06:28 PM   #89
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Re: DR350SE questions...

New carb (TM33-8012) came in Saturday, so Sunday evening I pulled the tank, made room and got the new one installed and the tank back on. For giggles, I turned on the petcock, waited to fill the bowl, pulled out the choke and hit the starter. Within a second, it roared to life. WooHoo.... Let it run about five seconds since it was late and in the garage and shut it down.

About 30min ago I did the same thing.... Pulled the choke on, turned on the fuel, hit the starter and immediately it fired right up. Ran a minute on full choke, then dropped to half choke and at two minutes no choke. Super throttle response, no lag, no bog and responsive. Hmmm.....

Against my better judgement and personal rules, I donned just a helmet and took off to the pasture and played around a bit. That was a lot of fun just tearing around. Brought it back to the garage, shut it down, waited about five minutes to see if it would start easily hot and sure enough, fired right up and I played some more.

I'd say in my best Gene Wilder voice "It's...It's....It's A-L-I-V-E"!


Thanks for all your help on this one.


.
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Old 03-29-2017, 08:52 PM   #90
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Re: DR350SE questions...

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Old 03-30-2017, 06:57 AM   #91
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Re: DR350SE questions...

Ooooo-Rahhh!
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Old 03-30-2017, 07:18 AM   #92
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Re: DR350SE questions...

no video no proof!
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Old 03-30-2017, 08:06 PM   #93
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Re: DR350SE questions...

The video won't upload.... bummer.

On to the next thing to solve (with pictures!)

The blinkers are on thin alum tabs and I've fixed one already. Doesn't take much to bend/break. So whats a good solution other than removal? Thinking a plyable yet stiff rubber 'tab'.

Go!

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Old 03-30-2017, 08:16 PM   #94
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Re: DR350SE questions...

Stainless tab
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Old 03-31-2017, 05:23 AM   #95
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Re: DR350SE questions...

My thought would be to weld some recessed tabs onto the luggage rack so they don't stick out so far.
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Old 03-31-2017, 08:40 AM   #96
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Re: DR350SE questions...

Both above suggestions are good. One other is use a small angle aluminum instead of flat.
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Old 03-31-2017, 09:46 AM   #97
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Re: DR350SE questions...

or loose the aluminum tabs altogether, those turn stalks originally mounted directly to the steel mounts.
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Old 03-31-2017, 05:35 PM   #98
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Re: DR350SE questions...

Quote:
Originally Posted by focus frenzy View Post
or loose the aluminum tabs altogether, those turn stalks originally mounted directly to the steel mounts.


Very true. I think they were relocated to accommodate luggage a little better.
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