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Unusual Chain Problem

Joined
Mar 7, 2009
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Location
Alamogordo NM
I'm running a DID chain, second one, with the same problem and I'm stuck for a reason.
The "O" rings are splitting and flying out. The first chain did it at less than 3K miles and was replaced, after much hassle and two months. Now after 12K miles the replacement chain is spitting "O" rings.
Anyone one have an idea as to why? It is lubed and cleaned regularly and not over taxed by wheelies etc.

Smoky:doh:
 
Any unusual sprocket wear? Did you buy the second chain from the same source? (Maybe a bad batch.) Are you using an alignment tool or trusting that the little marks on the swing arm are accurate? Are you using chain lube, or better chain wax, or another product like penetrating oil?
 
Did you replace both sprockets at the same time you replaced the chain ? If not, that's your probably your problem . Check for proper slack and alignment. Your not hitting the chain with a pressure washer are you ?
 
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I'd make sure the pitch of the chain matches the sprockets. Worn sprockets should be replaced. Also, are you perhaps lubing the chain with something that's destroying the O-rings? O-ring and X-ring chains actually don't need much lube inside the links. You just need to use enough to reduce sprocket wear.
 
12 to 14k miles seams about right for the average chain. I run DID chain and know there are different grades. With different grades comes price. I ran DID 530ZVM on my Bandit and ZX11, I never "cleaned" them. I used Dupont Silicone spray lube on them. Last time I put a chain on the 530ZVM was about $175. That did not include the sprockets. My Bandit and ZX11 went about 24K when I got rid of them and the chains were still mint.
 
40,000 plus from DID X ring , never cleaned , oiled with chain saw bar oil . Abused and put up wet every time I ride , lots of off road included but lots of oil . With auto lube and bar oil good for 70,000 plus .
 
O-ring destruction is usually from using the wrong compound on the chain, either in a cleaner or a lubricant, not all things are created equal.
Let us know what you choose to do though, might save someone else the trouble.
Best of luck
 
I use kerosene to clean and PJ 1 Blue as my lube. The wear is almost nothing as I have not had to adjust my chain in over 10K miles. The seals are not swelling but appear to be tearing at an angle. I sent a half dozen to DID after the first chain went TU and they could not or would not give me a reason for the malfunction.
As back ground: I've been wrenching for over 50 years 30 as a MC mechanic. The chain, because of engine/swing arm alignment is out by .010; I feel this is not enough to kill the "O" rings. Kerosene is the recommended cleaner by DID and I've been using PJ1 for many years. Maybe I'll ask PJ if they have changed their formula.
Thank for your replies.

Smoky
 
I use kerosene to clean and PJ 1 Blue as my lube. The wear is almost nothing as I have not had to adjust my chain in over 10K miles. The seals are not swelling but appear to be tearing at an angle. I sent a half dozen to DID after the first chain went TU and they could not or would not give me a reason for the malfunction.
As back ground: I've been wrenching for over 50 years 30 as a MC mechanic. The chain, because of engine/swing arm alignment is out by .010; I feel this is not enough to kill the "O" rings. Kerosene is the recommended cleaner by DID and I've been using PJ1 for many years. Maybe I'll ask PJ if they have changed their formula.
Thank for your replies.

Smoky
You know you could have led with this info right?:trust: :lol2::zen:
If that's the case then I have nothing to offer other than the vanishingly small possibility of a poor manufacturing batch.
Maybe it's time to try another brand?
Best of luck
 
I was running PJ spray lube for years on my dirty bikes , never really had a complaint about chain life . When I started riding street I did start seeing a pattern with chain life . Chains were toast after about 20,000 miles . Stretched till no adjustment and loose rollers but I never saw a torn o ring . As soon as I saw x ring and looked at the specs I switched to RK x ring . Also I noticed RK chain lube in a very handy 4 oz squirt bottle that would ride very nicely on the bike so I bought several . It seemed to do a good job and would last for around 500 miles till I could tell the chain was starting to dry out . One day in my shop I was applying it and just happened to have a bottle of bar oil sitting there so I put a couple drops of each on a clean piece of paper and compared them . I couldn't tell a difference so that was the end of the 5 dollar RK 4 oz bottle and hello 8 dollar a gallon chain saw bar oil . Recently while on a ride with another rider his chain derailed so I put it back on for him and it was horrible dry and loose so we went to a hardware store to get a bottle of chain oil . I discovered a bad trend in bar lube . The high dollar name brand oil was like water , the salesman could not give me an adequate reason for the change in formula so if you are buying oil be sure it it the good old stuff like rear end gear oil not the new water stuff . It slings and makes the back of the bike corrosion proof but I would much rather have a 50,000 mile chain than a pretty bike that doesn't look like it's ever been ridden
 
When I bought my 950 KTM it came with the DID x ring . It outlasted the RK by 10,000 miles so we switched again .
 
My money is on a misaligned rear wheel. Either the marks are off or maybe the spacers are in the wrong order.
 
just as diesel has gone to a low sulfur formula so has kerosene. The sulfur content
is there for lubrication. I dont know if that is having an effect on the O-rings or not
but may be a possible cause
 
Color me stupid, but isn't 12 K a good distance for a standard o-ring chain? I would be upset with 3k, but 12 k is pretty good.

Also, do you use any kind of brush to clean the chain?
 
My money is on a misaligned rear wheel. Either the marks are off or maybe the spacers are in the wrong order.

I don't use the marks on the SA, I align the rear wheel to the front with straight edges. The chain is within .010 front to rear, sprockets are shimmed to be in alignment and like I said no adjustment required for the last 10K miles. Chain tension is set with shock disconnected and suspension jacked up to align the axel, swing arm pivot, and the counter shaft center.
I hate to put the blame anywhere but I'm beginning to believe either PJ1 or DID "X" rings are at fault.

Smoky:giveup:
 
Color me stupid, but isn't 12 K a good distance for a standard o-ring chain? I would be upset with 3k, but 12 k is pretty good.

Also, do you use any kind of brush to clean the chain?


It really seems to vary from rider to rider. I get 20-23k out of my chains. even when I had the torquey Bandit 1200 I was geting that kind of mileage. :giveup:
 
I have 20K on V-Strom chain, and looks and feels fine. I clean it with kerosene and align it with marks and use whatever chain lube is on sell. Probably change at 25K. I will also change the both sprockets and rear cushion on rear hub.
 
I get better mileage from chains and sprockets then I did drive shafts and a whole lot cheaper and easier to replace . Anything less than 35 k is unacceptable .
 
Yes. Chain and sprockets last forever. Sometimes you replace the chain and sometimes you replace the sprcockets but they last longer than shafts . LOL
 
Yes. Chain and sprockets last forever. Sometimes you replace the chain and sometimes you replace the sprcockets but they last longer than shafts . LOL
You forgot to add disclaimer "only when compared to BMW shafts"

Has any other manufacturer ever had major issues? Not in my memory as long as you change the fluid every 10k miles or so at a cost of $2. Cheaper than chain lube

_

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk
 
I do hear that BMW is not as reliable as Japanese bikes but I don't like to say anything. Kinda supersticous about that kinda stuff.

When you believe in things that you don't understand*
Then you suffer*
Superstition ain't the way…


LOL
 
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