• Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to register so that you can join the community and use the numerous features on the site. After registering, don't forget to post up an introduction!

SL350s

Did the adapters show today?

Not yet. HAHA I was already writing on this thread when you posted. I bought the shorty mufflers for $20 each w FREE shipping! I looked at the Dragon Tattoo girl's CB350 images and those are the same shorty's.

I think the shortys were cheap cause they didn't have all the adapters.
 
Not yet. HAHA I was already writing on this thread when you posted. I bought the shorty mufflers for $20 each w FREE shipping! I looked at the Dragon Tattoo girl's CB350 images and those are the same shorty's.

I think the shortys were cheap cause they didn't have all the adapters.

Cool! Yeah, that ball bearing needs to be there, at the end of the clutch push rod. Glad You are enjoying riding the SL-350. Now that You have Her going, can I have Her back?:rider:
 
Loking back at Your post, I thought the push rod always had a concave end? It has been a while, and I have slept since then.......:zen:
 
Loking back at Your post, I thought the push rod always had a concave end? It has been a while, and I have slept since then.......:zen:

There is a ball bearing but it is at the end of the rod, I have seen 4 of them and only this one looks drilled out. On most that have seen some use, the solid end has a dimple from the wear of that ball bearing.

No, this rod need something, I am guessing a ball bearing, but something must have dropped out that is non-stock. They can get bent from chain problems.
 
There is a ball bearing but it is at the end of the rod, I have seen 4 of them and only this one looks drilled out. On most that have seen some use, the solid end has a dimple from the wear of that ball bearing.

No, this rod need something, I am guessing a ball bearing, but something must have dropped out that is non-stock. They can get bent from chain problems.

Yes, there should be a ball bearing....
 
The SL350 exhaust adapters to mount the shorties are here but they are not going to be plug and play. Stupid me thought it would be as easy and PVC adapting where you just slip it on. That is what the pipe adapters in the larger car sizes looked like at O'Reiley.

https://www.denniskirk.com/medialibrary/viewer.jsp?mediaType=altImage&sku=449976

miHiKKaRSvDcORl38ndMLng.jpg
 
Last edited:
Using the adapters in the last post of mine, I was able to mount the EMGO shorty pipes. It ran but was way too loud. As I trolled the alley behind my house I could only think of my neighbors shaking a fist at me, that and my ears.

So I took them off and wonder if there is an easy way to quiet these down? Can one stuff something into or on the end of a loud pipe to help?

The Harley mufflers were next. These are the ones that are so heavy that none of the custom shops or my muffler shop wanted to touch. I added the right combination of the adapters to each muffler and slid them on with no bracing. First problem was that the side stand would not clear the left muffler without scratching and moving the pipe. OK. Started the bike. Pretty dang good sound, not as quiet as I like but a nice sound, maybe better than the other SL350 with CB pipes that I just rode around SE OK a week or so ago. I think I can hang them with a piece of steel, a bit of drilling and some bending but I will have to work out the plumbing to get past the kickstand.
 
Will a CL exhaust fit? I sent you a PM for some guy that had two parts bikes for sale in Austin with the CL still having the exhaust. Did you get it?
 
I got it but just am not interested in chasing down CL sales 200 miles away when I already have purchased this stuff and it is in the garage waiting to be installed. Even then I am not sure the problems in adapting CL350 headers. That would all be plan B.

Thanks for thinking of me though. I do scan CL set for 400 miles so I have seen these you mention.
 
I got it but just am not interested in chasing down CL sales 200 miles away when I already have purchased this stuff and it is in the garage waiting to be installed. Even then I am not sure the problems in adapting CL350 headers. That would all be plan B.

Thanks for thinking of me though. I do scan CL set for 400 miles so I have seen these you mention.

Did not know if they were the same or not. The parts are a steal for that. Will look locally if I find one cheap enough I will let you know. If it is close I do not mind picking it up for you. KP
 
Thanks but I don't think you will find SL350 pipes on the cheap. They go for about $1500 which is way more than I am interested. Even within the SLs, I need to get the one for K1 or K2 models as the KO engines and frames are more CB than SL.

What makes these so difficult is that the original muffler (as opposed to the pipe) bend up AND bend in.

Really low priority too. THe CT90 head is in the machine shop for new valves and I hate leaving an engine "open" for long. That is the best way to kill a bike.
 
Last edited:
I mounted the shorty mufflers again and tested fit after I read that I can remove the baffles and repack them with fiberglass.

Anyone know if auto parts stores carry fiberglass for mufflers?
 
I mounted the shorty mufflers again and tested fit after I read that I can remove the baffles and repack them with fiberglass.

Anyone know if auto parts stores carry fiberglass for mufflers?

Fiber glass is fiber glass, it would be a matter of density I would think. You google it yet? I used some pink in a scooter muffler, worked pretty good. Don't know how long it would last but.... it was free?:mrgreen:
 
Yep, the density is key. I used r-19 wall insulation, but it blew out within 4 or 5 months.

Still, semi-free as Dave said.
 
The EMGO shorty megaphones will work and can be quited down very easily. If they are the ones where you can remove the cone, and the inner pipe is centered, just weld a large fender washer over the outlet, one that has a very small diameter opening. Then, just keep increasing the inner diameter of the washer with drill bits until you have the backpressure you need, and the sound (or lack thereof) that you want. Install the cones and it is an invisible modification. I described this process in the latest issue (April/May) of the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club magazine in the article on my CB 200 cafe. Also, those adapter sleeves you have are horrible (in my experience) I found an adapter that slid over my headers and that fit the shorty megs at the auto parts store. I have some shorty EMGOs on my next project SL350 that this will not work for, because the exhaust exit isn't centered in the muffler. I'll be experimenting with it as soon as I finish the current project Triumph TR6R cafe. Best of luck.
 
Last edited:
I don't have a welder or welding skills but I will try to get this done. Not exactly sure what to weld and where without pictures but that can wait.

Chasing a couple of oil leaks on this SL. One from the shift shaft and another around the clutch rod. Both were new Honda OEM seals when I did the overhaul last year. New seals coming in the mail hopefully today.

Not sure what you mean about it not working on your SL350 project. That is what I am doing this on and the shorty's fit OK although the kickstand brushes one of them. The adapters from EMGO are crappy but they fit. I spent a day going for Autozone to O'Reiley to Pep Boys and none had an adapter small enough for the SL350 header.
 
found out what a fender washer was after a Google image:

s-s-fender-washer.jpg


Think I understand the idea of how to quiet the EMGO shorty mufflers. Wonder if I can JB-Weld it since I have no welding skills (but one good offer to do the job). Can JB work INSIDE a muffler? I know it can outside.

NEWSFLASH: Oil seal leak fixed! Dog gone new oil seal that I put on during an overhaul was leaking - the one that holds the clutch lifter rod that goes through the engine. After incorrectly ordering another new one and impatient to wait yet another week, I made a new discovery (new to me) that HondaBond on the outside of the oil ring would work. It is the same expensive silicone that seals the cases and comes in several names - HondaBond, SuzukiBond, ThreeBond... I think ThreeBond is the original manu. Use it like glue and put a light coating on the outside of the seal and install. WORKS. Now where is that Twinstar that I sold two years ago cause we could never get the seal to stop leaking? Bet the current owner would sell it cheap!

I did clean the surface of the case with alcohol. Same for where I was going to apply the HondaBond. Miracle stuff, the silicones they make today.
 
Yes, you can use JB Weld to mount the washer. Just scuff up the new washers, and clean the metal in the exhaust pipe that it mounts to. I suggest wiping it clean with acetone or brake cleaner, then "weld"

You might rip it out if you aren't careful with the drill, and have to start over, but that works.

Years ago, when two stroke race engines required porting, believe it or not the ports would be built up with JB weld, and then cut with a porting tool, then checked on a flow bench. If you didn't like the result, JB and start again. I learned that from Jerry Majors (famous for porting, and maybe long forgotten?)!
 
The circle on the washer is not centered because it hit the nut that holds the baffle in the exhaust. Hope it is not a problem. This size hole will be my first test. The diameter is almost 1/2 size which does cut out over 1/2 of the area (pie R Squared).

JB Welded and waiting for 24 hours for this:

14056217213_df11ec1927_n.jpg



New shocks on the next SL350 project:
14032995482_fd5f75dc60_n.jpg


NOTE: Flickr changed and has made it MUCH more difficult to share photos. On to another host.
 
Last edited:
Chasing a couple of oil leaks on this SL. One from the shift shaft and another around the clutch rod. Both were new Honda OEM seals when I did the overhaul last year. New seals coming in the mail hopefully today.

Update on this. The shift shaft was not leaking, it just appeared that way because of its proximity to the other leaking seal. The clutch shaft seal replacement did not fix the problem so I took it out and spread a layer of HondaBond around the seal, cleaned the area of the oil, and replaced it. This works. Still have one small oil leak and plan to do the same fix to it but can ride it as is.

Washers with JB Weld are still on the EMGO shorty mufflers and have really cut down the noise and improved the power.
 
Bought a new aftermarket petcock. Gas is leaking from the threads in the middle. Just enough to stink up the garage overnight.


Is there something like plumber's tape that is capable of use with gas/ethanol?

Project update - sold the SL with the washers in the shorties. Down to my daily ride and a frame off restore (two more years?).
 
Bought a new aftermarket petcock. Gas is leaking from the threads in the middle. Just enough to stink up the garage overnight.


Is there something like plumber's tape that is capable of use with gas/ethanol?

Project update - sold the SL with the washers in the shorties. Down to my daily ride and a frame off restore (two more years?).

this works. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85420-Permashield-Resistant-Dressing/dp/B007VIGCJW"]http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85420-Permashield-Resistant-Dressing/dp/B007VIGCJW[/ame]

this also works well. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/seal-all-contact-adhesive-and-sealant-380112/7010007-P

they have it at Auto zone also.
 
Back
Top