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I drank the kool-aid... The v-Strom kool-aid.

Well, that and it dropped almost a volt without anything running.

But that is normal. A battery will charge up to a higher voltage but not maintain it. Same when your bike is running with the alternator input to the battery it will read 13.8-14.2 volts. But once the charge is removed battery will slowly drop to normal static voltage of 12.6-12.7 volts, never higher.

But just because a battery reads 12.7 volts doesn't mean it is good either. It could have a weak cell and not able to deliver a load. I was just pointing out that per your readings only the battery would be presumed good and not "bum" like you said. Since you bought the bike used and battery condition is unknown I would suggest to replace it. Not worth getting stranded over a $55 battery. Yuasa AGM highly recommended, YTX12-BS. Try and save a few bucks and buy the cheapo off Ebay and you're taking a chance.

_
 
My thoughts exactly. Already replaced it with an AGM.

I'm pretty sure it was the original battery.

Sent from my handheld universal data mining enabler
 
Sounds like your V-strom is getting stronger day-by-day.
 
I'm certainly trying.

Next project is rebuilding the rear preload adjuster.

Sent from my handheld universal data mining enabler
 
XLint. :D I'd like a V Strom for most things. I mean, I like the KLR, it's just a BIT slow on the highway. Not that I need to get there any faster, just that my SV was more satisfying. I might look at a Wee Strom in the future. It isn't as heavy as the V Strom., but the bigger bike has more motor, I'll admit.

Anyway, you got yourself a nice ride, there.
 
I got to the air filter today, and it looks fine, but there's no gasket. So, it'll be down a day or so while I chase down a gasket or filter and gasket. Is there anything I should do while I've got the tank and panels off?
 
What kind of filter is it? My K&N didn't have a gasket, instead it had two little raised portions that acted like a gasket.

Sync the throttle bodies while it is apart if you want to.
 
It's a Suzuki, but it's real clean, so I don't think it's original.

However, there was a fair amount of ick behind the filter, so.... *shrug*.
 
As far as the TBS, I'm not too worried about that yet. Maybe. It does stutter a bit sometimes, and I started getting a bit of that idle hang where it just stays at 2100 or so when i roll off the throttle, but I think that may be connected to the fact that there is currently zero free play in the cable.
 
Best bike surprise ever.

I took off the side fairings and found....

5uda7ege.jpg


A peanut.
 
So, my front brake light switch doesn't work.

I can jump the connectors and it lights up, so the circuit is good.
I'm not getting any continuity (per my cheap meter) through the switch, though. Is it worth it to disassemble and scrub everything, or do these switches just go dead sometimes?
 
Eric, do you actually ride that thing, or are you having too much fun taking it apart? :mrgreen:
 
Lol. I ride it, then take it apart. Then ride it, then take it apart. Then, just to switch it up a bit, I take it apart, then ride it.

;)
 
So, my front brake light switch doesn't work.

I can jump the connectors and it lights up, so the circuit is good.
I'm not getting any continuity (per my cheap meter) through the switch, though. Is it worth it to disassemble and scrub everything, or do these switches just go dead sometimes?


I just went through this Monday night. My cheap meter showed the switch to be good. I opened up the switch just enough to spray wd40 in it, worked the switch quite a few times and then blew it out with compressed air. Although my meter showed the switch to be good , it was not good enough to activate my brake light . After cleaning it , it now is working good .



Signatures ???? We don't need no stinking signatures !!!!!
 
Well, mine shows the switch is bad. Hmmm....

Maybe a good scrub will do it. I took it apart about 10 minutes ago, and it looks intact. *shrug*
 
When I open my old Honda switches, they rarely get back together and work. I have tried squirting WD40 into them without opening switches and you are just as likely to wash something into the contact area as you are to wash it out.

Newer bikes are different - you can buy a replacement if what you are fiddling with breaks.
 
Took it apart to clean it, and wouldn't you know, it is not intact. A little piece of plastic broke, and took a little piece of metal with it. Still clicks, looks OK, but no circuit. New one on order. Lol.
 
Took it apart to clean it, and wouldn't you know, it is not intact. A little piece of plastic broke, and took a little piece of metal with it. Still clicks, looks OK, but no circuit. New one on order. Lol.

If it is cheap, buy two. Sounds like a design problem.
 
Holy cow. Does anybody actually stock parts anymore? Geez!
 
Took it apart to clean it, and wouldn't you know, it is not intact. A little piece of plastic broke, and took a little piece of metal with it. Still clicks, looks OK, but no circuit. New one on order. Lol.

I only opened my switch up enough to get the wd40 in there . I figured it would break if I opened it up all the way.
 
I use BikeBandit for Honda OEM parts. They give a 10% discount for AMA or Dairyland.
 
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