I would like the bars to come back a little but would prefer not to change lines. They may need to go up just to clear the tank. What will work? I have an abs model. I have seen pictures of genmar and some show different designs. Did they change over time? Do the 2 inch rox need longer lines?
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handlebar risers for stock clutch and brake lines?
- Thread starter mcman56
- Start date
I have Rox up and backs and Daytona bars. Stock lines.
You can use the 1" up and 1&1/2" back with stock bars without changing brake lines but it is tight for the front brake line going down to the manifold. Experimenting with the hose stay can make it work.
A 2" rise requires new brake and clutch hoses. While you can use the 2" risers with the stock lines, you are playing with your life as there is too much tension on the front brake line leading from the master cylinder.
Some riders route the lines behind the triple clamp but that is just sloppy and not worth the effort.
I just moved from the 1 up 1&1/2 back to the 2" Rox risers, you are doing yourself a disservice trying to use the stock lines. While you're at it, changing lines gets you a fluid change and stainless steel lines for a better feel.
As the 2" risers pivot, make sure you put new lines on with additional slack in case you adjustment them rearward more than up.
While you're doing the line change its a good time to chexk all the other cable routing, the tank underside, plugs if you need them etc.
Do it right, you'll be satisfied you did it right. Then when you park and see someone else with hoses and cables routed behind the triple clamp, just smile and know they got it halfway done.
A 2" rise requires new brake and clutch hoses. While you can use the 2" risers with the stock lines, you are playing with your life as there is too much tension on the front brake line leading from the master cylinder.
Some riders route the lines behind the triple clamp but that is just sloppy and not worth the effort.
I just moved from the 1 up 1&1/2 back to the 2" Rox risers, you are doing yourself a disservice trying to use the stock lines. While you're at it, changing lines gets you a fluid change and stainless steel lines for a better feel.
As the 2" risers pivot, make sure you put new lines on with additional slack in case you adjustment them rearward more than up.
While you're doing the line change its a good time to chexk all the other cable routing, the tank underside, plugs if you need them etc.
Do it right, you'll be satisfied you did it right. Then when you park and see someone else with hoses and cables routed behind the triple clamp, just smile and know they got it halfway done.
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Can you be a little more specific. I see Rox at 1 1/4" up and 1" back
http://roxspeedfx.com/collections/a...for-7-8-or-1-1-8-handlebar?variant=1031362021
And then there is Genmar at 1" up and 1 3/8" back.
http://www.genmarmfg.com/shop/suzuki/bandit-1250-2007-current-detail.html
Are these likely to be equivalent as far as fitting with stock lines?
http://roxspeedfx.com/collections/a...for-7-8-or-1-1-8-handlebar?variant=1031362021
And then there is Genmar at 1" up and 1 3/8" back.
http://www.genmarmfg.com/shop/suzuki/bandit-1250-2007-current-detail.html
Are these likely to be equivalent as far as fitting with stock lines?
I measured them center to center, 1" up. Note that those fixed ROX risers can be used two different ways, just reverse their direction.
Correction, measured incorrectly, I measured center to center forgetting the base clamp of the ROX . It is 1.25"
Good catch.
If you don't go more than 1 up and 1&1/2 back you can use stock lines but I would advise against it, the line from the front brake master to the manifold is tight. While that line doesn't move with the handlebar turn, I wouldn't want any lines or hoses tight.
In cold weather everything contracts and tight brake hoses could just get tighter. Imagine a blown front brake line as you try to stop. Even if you stop safely, your paint and plastics are trashed from sprayed brake fluid.
If anyone just need some extra height, just order or get an extra set of bar top clamps and longer bolts. Turn the extra set upside down, and then put the bars back on as usual just using the longer bolts.
Old trick. No hose or line.mods needed. Not a lot of extra rise but it might be enough for some people. It does have the effect to also bring the bars back a small amount but for some that is all thats needed.
Correction, measured incorrectly, I measured center to center forgetting the base clamp of the ROX . It is 1.25"
Good catch.
If you don't go more than 1 up and 1&1/2 back you can use stock lines but I would advise against it, the line from the front brake master to the manifold is tight. While that line doesn't move with the handlebar turn, I wouldn't want any lines or hoses tight.
In cold weather everything contracts and tight brake hoses could just get tighter. Imagine a blown front brake line as you try to stop. Even if you stop safely, your paint and plastics are trashed from sprayed brake fluid.
If anyone just need some extra height, just order or get an extra set of bar top clamps and longer bolts. Turn the extra set upside down, and then put the bars back on as usual just using the longer bolts.
Old trick. No hose or line.mods needed. Not a lot of extra rise but it might be enough for some people. It does have the effect to also bring the bars back a small amount but for some that is all thats needed.
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These Tusk 30mm risers work fine with stock hardware and cheap at $20.
Shown with stock bars, have since gone to Daytona bars, awesome.
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1316/25849/Tusk-Handlebar-Risers
Shown with stock bars, have since gone to Daytona bars, awesome.
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1316/25849/Tusk-Handlebar-Risers
I really just wanted to go back so went with Genmar because they said they would fit. Clutch line is OK but brake line is tight. I removed all tie wraps and the chrome cable/ wire guides. It does not help that I want the bars rotated pretty much as far back as I can. I trimmed off the rotational stops at both ends of the brake line to rotate for best angle. I'm very tempted to try and bend the brake line in the metal part between banjo fitting and rubber hose for better alignment. Has anyone tried this? Will it just crack at the weld (or braze) joint. Any recommendation on where to go for a longer brake line?
If you lose your front brakes, what will happen?
Core Moto will make lines to your specs.
Those tabs you cut off? They were a safety feature to prevent exactly what you did.
Core Moto will make lines to your specs.
Those tabs you cut off? They were a safety feature to prevent exactly what you did.
Bikebandit sells generic brake lines. A 20" line was good for the brake. The clocking on the ends is a little different but the line is a little long so it worked out OK. I used the "behind the fork clamp" method for the clutch line and can now rotate the bars all of the way back an down.
I could not find anyone who stocked longer clutch lines but did find a local shop that can make lines. Unfortunately, I have to give them the existing one as an example. It seems like a good thing to do but not that easy to get to so I'll wait until it is apart for some other reason.
Every time I bleed brakes on any of my bikes, I always have a problem with the bleeder hose popping off of the bleeder valve. This time I even used one of the Mityvac snap on fittings but it still popped off. Is there anything more secure. With plain tubing, I have tried tie wraps, hose clamps and safety wire but still have issues.
I could not find anyone who stocked longer clutch lines but did find a local shop that can make lines. Unfortunately, I have to give them the existing one as an example. It seems like a good thing to do but not that easy to get to so I'll wait until it is apart for some other reason.
Every time I bleed brakes on any of my bikes, I always have a problem with the bleeder hose popping off of the bleeder valve. This time I even used one of the Mityvac snap on fittings but it still popped off. Is there anything more secure. With plain tubing, I have tried tie wraps, hose clamps and safety wire but still have issues.
I saw a video on I think LSL 15mm risers. That wouldn't affect the brake lines. Does anyone know if anyone sells something similar to this? I think even the little over 1/2 inch would be an improvement.
1/2 will work with standard lines and cables. As you know, its not really much rise or pull back. You might end up buying 1" or greater and spend extra money that could have gone into new lines.
Perhaps try this:
Take a piece of 1/2 pvc pipe and using painters tape, tape that to your grips. That will give you a good idea of what the result will be. Then try it with 1" pipe. The stuff is really inexpensive but anything similar will do.
I tried shorter risers and sure enough, after a few rides you get used to it and want more.
If you just want the 1/2", lots of bike shops will have a spare set of top caps from other bikes they put risers on or maybe a friend has an unused pair. Turn them upside down, use 1/2" longer bolts and voila, instant risers with a cost of only a few bolt. The neat thing is you have a gap through which you can route wires for a power adapter instead if snaking them along the top side if the bars.
Perhaps try this:
Take a piece of 1/2 pvc pipe and using painters tape, tape that to your grips. That will give you a good idea of what the result will be. Then try it with 1" pipe. The stuff is really inexpensive but anything similar will do.
I tried shorter risers and sure enough, after a few rides you get used to it and want more.
If you just want the 1/2", lots of bike shops will have a spare set of top caps from other bikes they put risers on or maybe a friend has an unused pair. Turn them upside down, use 1/2" longer bolts and voila, instant risers with a cost of only a few bolt. The neat thing is you have a gap through which you can route wires for a power adapter instead if snaking them along the top side if the bars.
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RobG
0
FWIW, I have SW Motech 25mm risers and the stock cables/brake lines fit just fine with no problems.
Rob. Did you order through Twisted Throttle? And do you have a part number? Those could just be the ticket. Thanks.
RobG
0
I ordered thru Revzilla...SW-Motech 7/8" Handlebar Risers, 25MM, Item# 1035153
FWIW, these are a universal fit for 7/8"...I ordered the same item for my 2012 Suzuki 650DL V-Strom and it fit fine.
The item# I gave is for the black risers...they also have them available in silver...the 2016 Bandit has black handlebar clamps/risers.
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Very cool. Thanks.
I did not really like the "behind the gas" routing of the clutch line so had a longer one made. I took in a sample and these people did a nice job.
http://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/
I guessed 4 inches longer and I measured the new line as 68" but it could have been shorter. There is a excess under the tank but that is much better than too short and will allow more pull back if desired. Price was about $80. The tag shows their parts so you could probably order by description.
http://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/
I guessed 4 inches longer and I measured the new line as 68" but it could have been shorter. There is a excess under the tank but that is much better than too short and will allow more pull back if desired. Price was about $80. The tag shows their parts so you could probably order by description.