Few AT Mods

Will do, I can say this you can not be in a rush to start this project. It is a real PIA.

There are a lot of steps to get ready to take the tank off and it has 2 electrical connectors, one gas line and two vent hoses, all a pain to get to. I had half a tank and wished it were empty after I started.

The air box was actually harder than the tank, that thing has 5 vent hoses and 1 electrical plug. The two intake boots were pretty stuck too. In fact I was getting ready to install the air box but decided to give it a good once over and discovered where the air boots go into the air box the glue had come lose and one boot was part way out. I would have NEVER seen that if I just went and installed it. Now I am a bit freaked out. The tiny bit of glue they used doesn't stick to the rubber and plastic at all.

Trying to figure out the best way to make sure this never happens again, thinking of some epoxy putty and snotting up around the boot and the air box.

I removed the air filters and put my hand inside so at least now I know what to feel for once it is installed to make sure that never happens again.

The air horn inlets seem to be just as weak a connection, but at least they are on the dirty side of the air system.

I would say it took about 2 hours to get both the gas tank and air box off, but it is going to take a lot longer to reinstall !!!

Will take some pictures of the booster plug once I figure out where I want to route the thermocoupler. It is important that it try not to pick up heat from the radiator or engine, so either in front of the forks or sip tied to an air horn might be good too.

Overall it has been a bit of a pain and taking longer than I thought but it helps to dig into a bike so you understand how it was put together. For example, I really understand the air intake, so I will be extra careful with deep water. I am also considering drilling little drain holes on the dirty side of the air cleaner covers. Right now if any water were to go into the air horn, there is no place for it to go other than to build up and migrate through the air cleaner and from there it is all downhill into the engine !!!

Thanks. Sounds like big job.

Unless there is a big improvement mine may not get down at all or may get done at a valve adjustment.

doh!! ok the $26 and change part is the black plastic part the Honda emblem is on. the red part that wraps around half the head light and up by wind shield and says Africa twin on it, PN# 64310-MJP-F50ZA set illust (type 1) victory red R334 is $219.81

I would try plastic welding first, done with the soldering iron type.

http://www.harborfreight.com/80-watt-iron-plastic-welding-kit-60662.html

Hey you forgot about the decals, etc. How in the heck am I supposed to put those things on. May just order from the dealer and ask them to install the decals. No way I know how to do that or even want to.

By the way first ride with the booster plug installed. I can't say I notice any additional horsepower, but that wasn't what I got it for. What is remarkable different is the low RPM just off idle stuff, wow what a huge improvement. Before I was scared to do slow maneuvers in first gear because the throttle was a bit twitchy or a slight stumble off idle, so it would be a bit scary making tight turns in first without slipping the clutch a bit.

Now with the booster plug, it is smooth as silk! Clean, no bobble, just perfect smooth off idle increase in power. Really happy about that. I can't wait to get it in the dirt and play there, should be even more noticeable.

So overall a heck of a lot of work but I understand the bike much better now and feel great about that. I understand some of the mechanics better and by using epoxy around the air intake boots into the air box, the seal is better than stock!

Overall glad I did this project, time will tell of the whole front clip falls off, I will know whos fault it is.

I would have expected the low idle stuff to be better from Honda. It is not like this is their first go round with FI.

Yea, me to, I am not sure the AT was that bad, not really worse that most, I think if you really feel most modern FI bikes they are all forced to run a touch lean at idle to pass the smog tests. Just part of the EPA thing. I am a trials guy so I really want that super smooth and responsive at idle and just off idle.

The KTM 1190's had a low RPM issue as well (sub 5K). Made parking lot handling sketchy. There was a fix for it.

Exactly I am not alone.... I am drunk from vodka tonight I am not alone. Wait where is Mary, oh there she is.... Lol


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Ok, here are a few more additions before the Durango trip.

A complete set of SW-Motech panniers and boxes. These are the quick connect panniers that drop into the factory Honda receivers on the AT. I haven't mounted the top box pad yet, but I will do that tonight. Overall a really nice setup, lots of room, very strong boxes, don't seem to rattle at all.

I tell you, just putting together an official tool kit, spare parts and a few misc items adds a ton of weight to the AT. I took it for a quick spin last night and you notice the extra baggage that is for sure.

Very nice

By the way, I have a collection of spare parts now that are for sale, let me know if anybody is interested...

Factory Honda top box including lock, adapter plate and back rest pad

SW-Motech Skid Plate

R&G Stainless Steel Radiator Guard

SW-Motech Saddle Bags with pannier

Are the sw motech saddle bags soft bags? I may Try a soft bag set-up on mine to see if it makes the passenger more comfortable. Im still fighting that problem. I don't want to buy another motorcycle but may have too...

I sure like the looks of your set-up. Is your wife going to ride back there on the MexTrek trip?

Yes they are, you can see them on the Twisted Throttle site below. They were ok, but I wanted something a bit more robust. Man I got that now, but at the expense of additional weight.

It is still 50/50 if Mary is going or not. So far she has been very comfortable on the AT.

I just found out from Trouatech that my upper crash bars finally came in and they were going to ship them to me, but they would have arrived after we left for Durango. The guy was really cool and suggested to ship them to Durango instead, so now I get to mount the upper crash bars while on vacation. I don't think its going to be too hard since I already have the lowers installed and the uppers share the mounting brackets that connect to the engine mounts. I don't have to mess with that part at least.

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/sw-motech-dakar-soft-saddlebag-set-for-honda-africa-twin-crf1000l-16

That is one smooth looking motorcycle. Very nice.

kubotamiketx said:

By the way first ride with the booster plug installed. What is remarkable different is the low RPM just off idle stuff, wow what a huge improvement.

Now with the booster plug, it is smooth as silk! Clean, no bobble, just perfect smooth off idle increase in power.

Click to expand...

The 800 GS had the same FI issue. The Booster Plug made a dramatic difference on that bike as well. It sure is cheaper than a ECU reflash or a Power Commander install.

RB

I think most new FI systems must run super lean on the low end for emission compliance, this was a huge improvement.


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kubotamiketx said:

I think most new FI systems must run super lean on the low end for emission compliance, this was a huge improvement. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

The 250L idles rich in the 12-1 range but stock does go pretty lean pushing 16-1 above idle.
The Dobek AFR + is a handy tool.

I'm thinking you might want to upgrade the rear shock eventually. All that weight for the luggage AND a passenger is likely to overwhelm the stock rear spring and damping. That will make the front end a bit light, kind of like when towing with heavy tongue weight and the front end of your tow vehicle wanders a bit. I have the Ohlins on my GS and had it maxed out on preload and damping with all three bags loaded and my daughter (about 90lbs for her) on the bike. It did pretty well in fairly rough dirt/gravel and also on the pavement. It is a bit of a compromise though because going stiffer with heavier damping for the two up conditions means giving up a bit on the solo unloaded riding condition. My Ohlins does a pretty good job of adjusting for both conditions. The nice thing is that Ohlins isn't the only option nowadays. There are several other good after market brands as well.