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Old 08-08-2016, 10:01 AM   #61
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Re: DR350SE questions...

Good point ... It would only be on the stock carb. You need to check and make sure the accelerator pump is working.
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Old 08-08-2016, 10:07 AM   #62
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Re: DR350SE questions...

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Originally Posted by sandman View Post
Good point ... It would only be on the stock carb. You need to check and make sure the accelerator pump is working.
...once it gets over this very slight stumble/bog from idle to movement, it pulls like crazy. In fact, I was amazed at how easy that front wheel comes up. So I think that part is probably ok.
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:01 PM   #63
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Re: DR350SE questions...

either it is getting to much gas or it is way lean at idle or also the accelerator pump is not working or is not coming in soon enough.

when starting cold (well being August not hot) will it fire right up without choke or does it require much choke to start?
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Old 08-08-2016, 03:05 PM   #64
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Re: DR350SE questions...

I run the fuel bowl empty when I put it up so it's always difficult to start cold.
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Old 08-08-2016, 05:47 PM   #65
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Re: DR350SE questions...

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I run the fuel bowl empty when I put it up so it's always difficult to start cold.
Silly question but why would running the bowl empty make it difficult to start. Does it have a vacuum petcock? If so, that is the first thing I would remove! If not, then when you turn on the fuel, it should fill the carb up and not be hard to start. "Should" being the key word. All my carb'd dirt bikes through the years were treated the same way and they always started right up.
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Old 08-08-2016, 05:50 PM   #66
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Re: DR350SE questions...

I said that a little tongue-in-cheek since when the fuel bowl is empty it takes a bit for fuel to get there and then start. Next time out to the garage I'll fire it up, count how long it takes, let it cool totally and try it again when cold and report back.
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Old 08-08-2016, 05:52 PM   #67
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Re: DR350SE questions...

He doesn't wait for the bowl to fill. Manual petcock. Starts pretty quickly with choke, but typical air cooled bike, likes to warm up. Bog gets less as it warms up. Virtually gone when actually applying power. So mainly bogs in neutral blipping the throttle. Much less if you are rolling in gear and on the gas.
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Old 08-08-2016, 06:48 PM   #68
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Re: DR350SE questions...

My advice ( which I gave to the previous owner too) is ditch that particular carb. I maintained that machine for a few years and actually advised against buying it because that bog problem was severe during the test ride. That carb is not supposed to be immersed in solvent. It has soft parts inside the body that get damaged. I suspect that an owner before your seller soaked in in solvent.

I had that thing apart so many times chasing a rich mixture one day and a super lean one a week later that I got to where I could have it off the bike and apart in five minutes or less. Twice I had it apart on the side of the road for carb failures. It failed in Big Bend on a group ride, and in Oregon during a two week ride. Paul Glaves in Terlingua had it apart too. He is a wizard at motorcycles and still that carb isn't right.

Go stock, or get another pumper that as a better history.

On the bright side you have some very good Racetech suspension on both ends of that bike. You might need stiffer springs and of course the lowering links need to come off if they haven't already.
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Old 08-08-2016, 11:29 PM   #69
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Re: DR350SE questions...

One more thought about fitment of the bike. That seat has been custom carved to about 2" shorter than stock. With your height the seat to peg distance should probably be at least returned to stock. in the current setup you might have some knee burning if you ride beyond 4 hours at a stretch. Seat Concepts makes a foam and upholstery kit for that bike if you can't locate a stock height seat.

When it is running right it is good for an honest 90 MPH in sixth gear by the way. GPS verified, although it is not recommended to be done all the time.
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Old 08-09-2016, 09:07 AM   #70
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Re: DR350SE questions...

Thanks Ed for the input...

I want to get this little 'project bike' done and go see how I enjoy/don't enjoy off-road riding. I may love it. I may not. I just don't know at this point.
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Old 08-10-2016, 08:29 PM   #71
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Re: DR350SE questions...

Like Ed says look for a stock carb. I riden many with the pumper carb vs the vacuum .... Not too much difference.

Let's talk talk wheelies ... The dr350 / dr250 is one of the best wheelie bikes made... Not because of power but balance.
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Old 09-07-2016, 09:25 PM   #72
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Re: DR350SE questions...

Little update...

I had a lot of grease on the front disc which puzzled me. I'd rub my finger on the front disc and it would come off as a black grease leaving only brake fluid, axle bearing grease or fork oil as the possible culprit. The tubes were clean and the axle seals look great, so that left brake fluid. I pulled off the front caliper and sure enough, the piston was weeping and the boots looked wet. A take-off replacement front brake caliper and pads were ordered and installed today. Lengthy cleaning of the front disc with brake cleaner to rid the slick stuff off too. Took forever to bleed the air out, but I finally got it.

So my next question is braking/stopping on these little bikes. My only real experience is coming from a BMW R1150GS with dual 305mm discs up front with four piston calipers. This little guy has a single 250mm two piston setup up front.

I get some good nose dive on hard braking, but with the front and rear engaged it takes a long time to slow down/stop. Is this normal coming from a GS experience? It just takes a long time in my opinion.

Next little project I think is to swap out the long extending rear blinker stalks for shorter ones that tuck under the tail rack. They'll be better protected this way.
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Old 09-07-2016, 09:47 PM   #73
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Well when I picked up my new crf250l and departed the dealer and was headed towards a red light I quickly decided dragging my feet was better at bring that bike to a stop.
It scared the poop out of me.

But after doing a proper set of heat cycles to bake in the pads it stops pretty good. You have to factor in just how much lighter the DR is compared to a GS.

Those new pads need a good baking in
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Old 09-08-2016, 02:47 PM   #74
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Re: DR350SE questions...

Those pads and that rotor do need to break in to each other before they will give top performance. Calling them 'take off' gives me the idea that they are used. If I am guessing right on that then those pads are conformed to whatever rotor they saw service with. Might take longer than new pads to bed in while you wear off the high spots. If your rotor is mirror polished from being used with all that fluid on it you might need to give it some abrasive attention.
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Old 09-08-2016, 03:04 PM   #75
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Re: DR350SE questions...

Thx, Ed
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:10 PM   #76
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Re: DR350SE questions...

Frustrating would be the word choice the past two days....

Rusty and I had it running - well short of that idle to roll on bog Ed talked about above.

About six or eight weeks ago I was getting a bit more brave getting farther from the house. Call it a 'testing the waters' for reliability. Well, it left me a mile from the house with a dead engine and wouldn't restart so I pushed the thing home. Tried to get it started again and no such luck. Just wouldn't fire.

There it sat for a month, made a move, and yesterday I decided it was time to look at this 'project' again. So off come the panels and gas tank. I dumped out the fuel from the tank and drained the bowl. Off to the airport for five gallons of non-ethanol AVGAS (it's blue of all things...) and put two gallons in once it was all buttoned back up.

Hammered the starter a bit and got it to fire - a good sign. I could get it to idle, but anytime I tried to roll on the throttle, there's that bog. Never could get it past an idle without it trying to die. There was one time I got it to spool up but it wasn't consistent at high RPM. So it idles, but that's about it.

So I'm at a crossroads.....
Do I take it off again, clean it and have the same song/dance?
-Seems like this really won't accomplish anything new/different in the big picture

Do I just buck up and find a stock carb, throttle cables, manifold and airbox connection and get that installed back to stock?
-How involved is it to change out the throttle cables?
-Where would you source a stock carb? I'm guessing the dealer would be uber-expensive

Do I sell it and buy a sweet little '12 KLX250S with 1300 miles?
-Very tempting, but I don't know how this shakes out in the plus/minus column for either in a comparison. It's new school vs old school and the old school has some suspension that probably needs to be addressed as well for my size.
-Is one just simply a better bike than the other?




.
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:55 PM   #77
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Re: DR350SE questions...

eBay is a good source for used OEM parts. Check that the seller has sold a few things/has a good rating. I've found a lot of '84 CR500 parts there that are no longer available from Honda at reasonable prices.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:40 PM   #78
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Re: DR350SE questions...

To fix or sell, that is up to you. I would find as many stock parts on Ebay as I could, if I was choosing to fix and not sell.
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Old 03-20-2017, 09:15 PM   #79
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Re: DR350SE questions...

The manifold is stock, as is the boot for the air cleaner. Probably worth the price of a stock carb just to be able to ride the thing. It has the push/pull cables still, so the cables might also be stock. I know the throttle assembly on the bars is stock.
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Old 03-20-2017, 09:19 PM   #80
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Re: DR350SE questions...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ed29 View Post
The manifold is stock, as is the boot for the air cleaner. Probably worth the price of a stock carb just to be able to ride the thing. It has the push/pull cables still, so the cables might also be stock. I know the throttle assembly on the bars is stock.
Thanks, Ed. That fills in more holes for me.

Do you recall how the front/rear is sprung for what wgt rider? And if I take the lowering bones off, does the front need to come up as well?
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