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4 -K&Ns

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rworm

rworm

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Jan 5, 2008
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Between Pickles Gap & Toadsuck AR.
Filters came in yesterday-pulled airbox out and installed them-ordered from auto zone with all the measurements i came up with and they fit perfect-also bought the small ones that look the same for crankcase vents-was going to order power commander-figured the bike would be lean- gave it a good warm up down the hiway let it cool down-read both outside plugs and they are perfect- the combo of the airfilters and gutted factory pipe is amazing-performance has increased through the entire RPM range-the look is exactly what i wanted-have computer whiz nephew with good camera to help me get some pictures to post tommorrow


rworm
 
rworm said:
Filters came in yesterday-pulled airbox out and installed them-ordered from auto zone with all the measurements i came up with and they fit perfect-also bought the small ones that look the same for crankcase vents-was going to order power commander-figured the bike would be lean- gave it a good warm up down the hiway let it cool down-read both outside plugs and they are perfect- the combo of the airfilters and gutted factory pipe is amazing-performance has increased through the entire RPM range-the look is exactly what i wanted-have computer whiz nephew with good camera to help me get some pictures to post tommorrow


rworm
Click to expand...
pics and part numbers please.
 
K&N part #is RC1290
today i pulled charcoal canister and parts off as per suzukijoe and moved horn -never liked the ECM where it was mounted-took it off and moved it back right above the rear shock-since there is no airbox this was a easy project -only had to solder and lengthen 5 wires about 8 inches-now all the wires are together and ran in a flexible wire conduit including fuel injection-and rerouted starter cable to that side as well-LOOKS NICE-as for pictures-will try to do that tommorrow


rworm
 
Worm,
Put up some pics of your soldering work and give us an explanation of your technique.

Gracias,
Greg
 
Cant show you any pics of soldering work, because all splices are in heat shrink. But I am an ARKANSAS electrician. Just took pics of the bike and starting to try pics posting now. Give me a few minutes and ill try to have them posted



rworm!!!
 
I can solder well onto a PCB but always seem to have trouble soldering two wires in mid-air. How do you do it?
 
GregH said:
I can solder well onto a PCB but always seem to have trouble soldering two wires in mid-air. How do you do it?
Click to expand...
roach clips (can't think of the medical term) work well if you can get them to rest on something.
 
Thanks for the pics. Nice ride, interesting exhaust mod.

bandit007.jpg


bandit005.jpg


bandit004.jpg


bandit003.jpg


bandit002.jpg


bandit001.jpg
 
rworm said:
K&N part #is RC1290
today i pulled charcoal canister and parts off as per suzukijoe and moved horn -never liked the ECM where it was mounted-took it off and moved it back right above the rear shock-since there is no airbox this was a easy project -only had to solder and lengthen 5 wires about 8 inches-now all the wires are together and ran in a flexible wire conduit including fuel injection-and rerouted starter cable to that side as well-LOOKS NICE-as for pictures-will try to do that tommorrow


rworm
Click to expand...

rworm,

Just to let you know, that finned thing you relocated is not your ECM, but is your voltage regulator/rectifier, but it does look good where you moved it to, and the ECM is located under your seat. ;-)
 
What you did is much better than blanking off the pair intakes, the crankcase won't starve for air when pumping at high rpms. Do you remember what the small intake sizes were?
 
SZUKI0 said:
What you did is much better than blanking off the pair intakes, the crankcase won't starve for air when pumping at high rpms. Do you remember what the small intake sizes were?
Click to expand...

The PAIR system has nothing to do with the crankcase at all, and whether it hooked up, plugged or totally removed does not affect the performance or operation of the engine at any RPM.

The air supplied from the air box to the pair system is injected into the exhaust port on each cylinder, just down stream from the exhaust valves, and the sole purpose of the PAIR system is to help reduce emissions by helping to burn any unburned fuel in the exiting exhaust gases, and the main reason people either plug the PAIR system, or remove it completely is to reduce or eliminate decel popping in the exhaust, and to remove all of the PAIR hoses and the valve from the top of the engine to make it cleaner and easier to work on.
 
GregH said:
I can solder well onto a PCB but always seem to have trouble soldering two wires in mid-air. How do you do it?
Click to expand...

Clean wires (scrape or lightly sand it to remove film/oxidation)
Heat wire (one at a time) apply thin coated of solder to wire, when properly heated solder will coat the wire by itself. Do the same on the other wire.
Put wires together, reheat and immediately apply solder. Do not move connected wires until it cools down, soldered joint should be shiny. The less exposed wire the better because soldered joints don't flex.

In addition, if soldering multiple wires, stagger the joints to avoid shorts.

Better yet, http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/connections.htm
 
Last edited:
When the crankcase pressurizes and sends blow-by out the PCV, the reed valve open into the top end (not out), allowing air in.
 
SZUKI0 said:
When the crankcase pressurizes and sends blow-by out the PCV, the reed valve open into the top end (not out), allowing air in.
Click to expand...

I don't know where you got this info from, but it's totally wrong again, as the PCV valve is not connected to the PAIR system at all, and if you don't believe me, go look at the schematics for the PAIR system and the crankcase ventilation system in the factory service manual.

There you'll see as I stated in my first reply to your post, that the fresh air that is supplied to the PAIR system comes from a single supply line that comes off of the right side of the air box, which then goes to the PAIR solenoid control valve, which then sends the air from the air box to each of the two reed valves located in the top of the valve cover.

The PAIR system is not pressurized at any point by pressure from the crankcase or any other place for that matter, as the air is drawn through the reed valve by the exhaust gases creating a low pressure zone on the back side of the reed valves, which then allows the fresh air supply from the air box to be drawn into the exhaust ports on each cylinder, just down stream from the exhaust valves. :trust:
 
True, the pair and PCV are not connected, and the blowby goes back through the PCV into the intake (the pair supplies air to the backside of the exhaust valve to aid burning of the hydrocarbons in the cat) except by pressurize.
 
I love the look!!

I read some of the other threads on air box mods, and their slight complaints on increased noise. How do you find the noise?
The smaller filters, those are for the pair system?
 
My biggest concern would be water ingestion. I had this issue before on a 1st gen Gixxer 1100. My legs funneled the water right into 2 of my K&N's during a downpour. I **** near hydro-locked the motor.

While I like the looks of this and it takes me back to riding 20 years ago, I'll pass on this mod. Maybe if it had some very effective heat/water shielding.

Speaking of heat shielding, it would be interesting to see if the IAT (intake air temps) actually increased by doing this mod. That is one thing that wasn't too bad about the stock airbox.
 
Killer Mod.
Love that look. And I bet the noise id GOOD also!!! I don't ride in the rain IF I CAN HELP IT. But I agree with the above that some type of rain/water protection is needed.
Can we see pics with al of the body work and seat reinstalled?
:rider:
 
Day Trippin said:
My biggest concern would be water ingestion. I had this issue before on a 1st gen Gixxer 1100. My legs funneled the water right into 2 of my K&N's during a downpour. I **** near hydro-locked the motor.

.
Click to expand...

I had that set up on a '77 750GS Suzuki that was out to 870 with a Yosh kit, cams, exhaust and 29 smoothbores back in about '79. All kinds of problems when caught in a serious rain storm down here. Even had a Martex ignition on it back then.
 
More air more noise. No air box = even more noise. If you want minimal noise just open up the snorkel end of the box instead of the top. At the same time whats wrong with noise!? I personally hated the stock sounding like a sewing machine noise! :D
 
Tazman2 said:
More air more noise. No air box = even more noise. If you want minimal noise just open up the snorkel end of the box instead of the top. At the same time whats wrong with noise!? I personally hated the stock sounding like a sewing machine noise! :D
Click to expand...

Ahhhhhhhh, except most leos don't chase sewing machines, they chase noisy show-off bikes!
 
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