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- Haley
The two biggest beefs about TW200s are the cheap chain and the small fuel capacity. The chain is a rather easy fix, fit an EK 428SROZ o-ring chain and be done with it. The fuel capacity issue is a bit more intricate. Still, it isn't difficult to adapt a Clarke tank (#11319) for an XT350 to a TW.
First, the TW has a very tight turning radius and the bars will hit the tank. Begin by raising the bars 2 inches with risers, or switching to bars that are two inches higher. I found a set of baluminum 4-wheeler bars stamped "TRAX" that are virtually the same bend as stock except 2 inches taller.
When you first trial fit the Clarke tank, it will hit the triple tree. Stick several layers of 3M exterior double-stick mounting tape in the back of the slot in the tank that slips over the rubber tank mounts on the frame.
This keeps the tank off the triple tree.
Next, hacksaw the threaded pipe that receives the rear tank mount bolt even with the flat bracket to which it is welded.
Then take a piece of 1/8-inch steel about an inch wide and 1.75 inches long(my piece was left over from a trailer hitch install) and drill and countersink a 6mm hole in one end. Drill and tape the other end for a 6 x 1.0 bolt. Mount the steel to the frame bracket with a countersink screw, using the part of the threaded pipr still welded below the bracket to secure the part.
Take the rubber bushing that comes with the tank to a hardware store and find a steel bushing that fits in the hole. Use a 6 x 1.0 bolt to mount the rear of the tank. Bend the wire included to clear the head and attach it across the bottom of the tank between the top tube and engine. Use LocTite. The screws are 1/4x20, not metric. Note the slot cut in the seat where the side covers meet the tank in the picture below. A hacksow works well for this.
I used a XT350 petcock purchased new, but I've been told the original TW200 petcock works well. A bit of fuel line, a filter, and, voila, longer range.
First, the TW has a very tight turning radius and the bars will hit the tank. Begin by raising the bars 2 inches with risers, or switching to bars that are two inches higher. I found a set of baluminum 4-wheeler bars stamped "TRAX" that are virtually the same bend as stock except 2 inches taller.
When you first trial fit the Clarke tank, it will hit the triple tree. Stick several layers of 3M exterior double-stick mounting tape in the back of the slot in the tank that slips over the rubber tank mounts on the frame.
This keeps the tank off the triple tree.
Next, hacksaw the threaded pipe that receives the rear tank mount bolt even with the flat bracket to which it is welded.
Then take a piece of 1/8-inch steel about an inch wide and 1.75 inches long(my piece was left over from a trailer hitch install) and drill and countersink a 6mm hole in one end. Drill and tape the other end for a 6 x 1.0 bolt. Mount the steel to the frame bracket with a countersink screw, using the part of the threaded pipr still welded below the bracket to secure the part.
Take the rubber bushing that comes with the tank to a hardware store and find a steel bushing that fits in the hole. Use a 6 x 1.0 bolt to mount the rear of the tank. Bend the wire included to clear the head and attach it across the bottom of the tank between the top tube and engine. Use LocTite. The screws are 1/4x20, not metric. Note the slot cut in the seat where the side covers meet the tank in the picture below. A hacksow works well for this.
I used a XT350 petcock purchased new, but I've been told the original TW200 petcock works well. A bit of fuel line, a filter, and, voila, longer range.