Anyone have issues with cutting out?

Happened twice now that I recall. Leaving work, maybe a mile or so until I hit the interstate. Get on the interstate and at about 60-70 it starts cutting out and surging like it wants to die. Then a couple miles down the road it magically cures itself.

Bike is stock. 6500 miles. Has a Yosh pipe now and PAIR blocked off, but it has done it with both stock and the Yosh.

Any thoughts?

Any codes popping up? warning lights? You mentioned a while back your fuel mileage was less than most. Remove your right side panel, you will find a white plug with a black rubber cap, remove the cap, looking straight into the plug take a paper clip and jump the far right two plug holes. Turn the key on with on/off switch in the on position, come back and tell me what the dash readout says, look where the trip meter is located you will see a -C00, if something other than that shows up your TPS is off or you have a error code present. One more thing you could take it to a dealer with the SDS and plug your bike up and view this problem if you get a code. The software will retrieve what the bike was doing at the time of malfunction, htis is stored under DTC section of SDS, you must have a prior code though. No code no problem so to speak. Either way while its running on the laptop view the various parameters to see if something jumps out as unusual. My guess is you may have the TPS issue that I recently discovered on my bike. If that is the case I can walk you through the adjustment. It is not for the faint at heart. My bike had some similar running issues which turned out to be a TPS off 9 tenths of a degree from stock. It came that way to me from the great old Suzuki Factory.

Thanks Roy I will look into that tonight. It's been very rare, and literally 30-45 days apart. I'd like it to be something wrong that improves mpg, and REALLY hope that 5 year warranty transfers. PO didn't have or send me any paperwork on it. Said it was traced through the VIN. Hope so.

Happened to me two weeks ago, 4649 miles, going around 60 MPH, exactly as you describe. I loosened my grip thinking it was perhaps me inadvertently jiggling the throttle - but nope. I even started looking for a place to pull over - assuming it would die. I made a note of it on my maintenance log, but nothing else - figured it was just an abnormality and went away (nothing sense).

I'm keeping a wary eye out now - and will check the codes as suggested by Roy.

humm....

Any verdict on this yet?

Roy said:

Any verdict on this yet?

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I didn't ride it all weekend, too busy with house work. Rode it today and no issues, but I want to check your advice and I will get back to you.

Thanks for checking up on me

bones said:

I didn't ride it all weekend, too busy with house work. Rode it today and no issues, but I want to check your advice and I will get back to you.

Thanks for checking up on me

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No problem, I figure since I know more than most on the FI functions right now might as well keep rolling with it while its fresh on my mind. I suspect my bike was not the only one poorly setup from the factory. I figure there are quite a few out there with similar issues. That is why you hear complaints about surging, idles weird and cut out issues. Let me now what you come up with on the TP check but you might want to pack a small allen wrench in the tankbag and a paper clip so if you do get a code you can access the right side panel (panel can be removed without removing seat) plug before killing the bike, remember if you get a code simply pull the right side cover and jump the two far right plug holes with the bike still running and report back the Cxx code from the dash readout. Like I said I am still curious as to where your TPS is located that can be checked anytime off or running. Your looking for -C00 on the TPS.

Thanks. My idle seems high @ 1100+/- and it seems to stumble at stop lights.

Hit the blinking light at 105 miles and I have been taking it easy. I have ot get on this soon. It will kill me to stop every 120 miles on a 2000 mile trip to refuel. Only gripe about this tank anymore.

bones said:

Hit the blinking light at 105 miles and I have been taking it easy.

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Wow - something has to be wrong there. I knew you were hitting the light early, but if you're taking it easy and it's blinking by 105mi, that's awful. Even 2-up, windy, loaded down and going fast I've never had it come on that early.

Typical commuting mine starts flashing around 120mi, taking it easy around 130mi, and out cruising back roads it's come on as late as 155mi before.

I'm curious to see what you find. Keep us posted.

trey

Trey,

I'm confused. Are you saying you only getting 150 miles to a tank? I regularly ride 2 up at around 70-75 mph (110 -120 kph) and travel 217 miles (350 kilometers) on a single fill. This is GPS verified mileage, my elevation goes from ~2800' to 7200'.

I reckon he is saying that is when the gas light starts blinking.

Never ridden two up and only really ever have the 46L topcase on it with lunch and rain gear in it. Never had it really loaded down yet.

_C00 is what shows up.

Anyone want a bandit, I want a new bike already. jk

My chain was in need of a good cleaning, so I did that, lubed it up and started it on the center stand and put it in gear and it seemed like it was skipping a tooth. Every few revolutions the chain would jump around a lot. This common? I have never noticed this on past bikes and it really bugged me. Took the front cover off and the sprocket is fine. Something about this bike is making me leary or riding it super long distance now which was why it was purchased.

Brass said:

Trey,

I'm confused. Are you saying you only getting 150 miles to a tank? I regularly ride 2 up at around 70-75 mph (110 -120 kph) and travel 217 miles (350 kilometers) on a single fill. This is GPS verified mileage, my elevation goes from ~2800' to 7200'.

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Bones, you're not alone. I start blinking at 75-85 miles and need to fill up around 115-125 miles. I commute 50 miles round trip every day and can only make it to work and back twice so I fill up 2.5 times every week. I just chalked it up to the fact that I'm a fatso weighing in at 275. Funny thing though, my gauge will never go to FULL. It's always one notch down after a fill up.

On another note, my stock Dunlop tires lasted 6000 miles front and back..

bones said:

My chain was in need of a good cleaning, so I did that, lubed it up and started it on the center stand and put it in gear and it seemed like it was skipping a tooth. Every few revolutions the chain would jump around a lot. This common? I have never noticed this on past bikes and it really bugged me. Took the front cover off and the sprocket is fine. Something about this bike is making me leary or riding it super long distance now which was why it was purchased.

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Chains develop tight spots as you describe when they need to be replaced. Try pulling on the chain at the back of the rear sprocket.If you can pull a link off of the sprocket and can see a space through it you need to replace the chain. Severely negleted/abused chains will last about 10 - 15,000 miles. A properly taken care of chain can last as much as 25,000 miles. By neglected/abused I mean Improper lube intervals, too long between adjustments, too tight adjustments, and pullin' lots of wheelies......etc. As far as your poor gas mileage and surging, I'm not sure. I don't know much about fuel injected bikes ( me carburetor caveman ). Sounds like maybe a sensor failing?

bones said:

_C00 is what shows up.

Anyone want a bandit, I want a new bike already. jk

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As I suspected your TPS is off like mine. I can tell you how to set it but after that you will also need to re-sync the throttle bodies to the new TPS setting. Getting to the TPS screw part your not going to like, throttle bodies have to come off unless you have really, really small hands. It is not really that hard to remove the TB's. Air box comes out after the TB's. Then you set the TB's back up in place plug everything back in, turn the key on, turn the tiny screw on the bottom of TB's and watch the dash guage. Re-attach TB's, follow the manual on the re-assembly, fire it up and set up for a sync job. That should cure the issue.

bones said:

My chain was in need of a good cleaning, so I did that, lubed it up and started it on the center stand and put it in gear and it seemed like it was skipping a tooth. Every few revolutions the chain would jump around a lot. This common? I have never noticed this on past bikes and it really bugged me. Took the front cover off and the sprocket is fine. Something about this bike is making me leary or riding it super long distance now which was why it was purchased.

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It will not run smooth on the centerstand with your current TPS setting the chugging is what your are seeing its not skipping a tooth. I bet you have alot of surge at light throttle openings also? Just a bad balance at the throttle bodies. This really pisses me off thta Suzuki is obviously letting a number of poorly tuned bikes leave the factory. What's the point of emissions control if its tuned wrong. Sems a moot point to me. If the goverment was actually checking their bikes they would fail at the street level testing. My suspicions are if you are experiencing poor fuel mileage then the TB's are off no different than a carb bike poorly jetted. I can help you get it right but you will need a sync guage, basic hand tools and if you could get a laptop with SDS on it that would make it alot easier since it shows actual engine temp which is critical when doing sync. Your TPS setting on SDS should read 27.9 degrees, I bet yours is 27 degrees like mine was. You got a friday bike also.

I'm not sure about how the back of that bike is. If it's a dual sided swingarm then the skipping a tooth ( I'm sure it isn't skipping a tooth literally ) scenario you describe could be uneven alignment of the rear axle. There should be adjusters on either fork of the swing arm. See if they are at the same notch of the gauge/marks. With the bike in neutral and on the center stand spin the tire and visually inspect down the chains length as you spin the tire. Alignment issues will present themselves as you watch it spin. But, check/correct that TPS issue, and see if the axle lines up with the marks on the swingarm.

hawk GT said:

I'm not sure about how the back of that bike is. If it's a dual sided swingarm then the skipping a tooth ( I'm sure it isn't skipping a tooth literally ) scenario you describe could be uneven alignment of the rear axle. There should be adjusters on either fork of the swing arm. See if they are at the same notch of the gauge/marks. With the bike in neutral and on the center stand spin the tire and visually inspect down the chains length as you spin the tire. Alignment issues will present themselves as you watch it spin. But, check/correct that TPS issue, and see if the axle lines up with the marks on the swingarm.

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The swingarm marks are all off on the new 1250's. The jerky chain on the centerstand at idle is from his TPS being out of whack among other things out of adjustment with the throttle bodies. Mine exhibited the same trait when it was out of whack.

Roy said:

The swingarm marks are all off on the new 1250's. The jerky chain on the centerstand at idle is from his TPS being out of whack among other things out of adjustment with the throttle bodies. Mine exhibited the same trait when it was out of whack.

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Yeah, that's cool. But what he describes could also be a rear axle out of alignment as far as the chain is concerned. He should learn, if he does'nt already know, how to check for rear axle alignment.Que no?

Roy said:

It will not run smooth on the centerstand with your current TPS setting the chugging is what your are seeing its not skipping a tooth. I bet you have alot of surge at light throttle openings also? Just a bad balance at the throttle bodies. This really pisses me off thta Suzuki is obviously letting a number of poorly tuned bikes leave the factory. What's the point of emissions control if its tuned wrong. Sems a moot point to me. If the goverment was actually checking their bikes they would fail at the street level testing. My suspicions are if you are experiencing poor fuel mileage then the TB's are off no different than a carb bike poorly jetted. I can help you get it right but you will need a sync guage, basic hand tools and if you could get a laptop with SDS on it that would make it alot easier since it shows actual engine temp which is critical when doing sync. Your TPS setting on SDS should read 27.9 degrees, I bet yours is 27 degrees like mine was. You got a friday bike also.

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Thanks Roy. I need to sync gauge and SDS (any links would be great), then I will crack into this pig. Glad to hear it's at least fixable and nothing to have to live with.

Filled up this morning, 35.1mpg and I tried to keep it under 4K rpm's as much as possible and of course I romp on it from time to time, but still.

bones said:

Thanks Roy. I need to sync gauge and SDS (any links would be great), then I will crack into this pig. Glad to hear it's at least fixable and nothing to have to live with.

Filled up this morning, 35.1mpg and I tried to keep it under 4K rpm's as much as possible and of course I romp on it from time to time, but still.

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I bought a Motion Pro SyncPro. The 1st one was a bad/older design that would not work on the Bandit. Motion Pro sent me a replacement so be aware there may still be old stock floating out there from online retailers. I got mine from Dennis Kirk for $104.99, their's was obviously old stock. As for SDS a local dealer should have this on a laptop. It can be done without it but as I said earlier it is much more difficult to do since the operating temp for sync needs to be 176 ~212 degrees no more no less. Trust me the thing heats up quick in a garage trying to fiddle with air screws. Have a robust fan to keep it cool. As for pulling the throttle bodies, I just found no way to get at the TPS screw without pulling them. It is fairly straight forward and well explained in the service manaul how to remove them. Remember never turn the key on until you have all the plugs plugged in or it will error code on you. Removing the airbox after the throttle bodies are out makes placing the TB's in temporarily to get the plugs plugged in and access to the screw easier. Leave the throttle cables attached, the whole TB unit will swing out to the right of bike plenty. The TPs screw is a 10mm jamb nut with a allen stud for adjustment, it will have white paint on it can't miss it under the TB's in the middle. You can see it from the right side up under if you look with a flashlight. Use the dash -C00 to get the bar to come into the middle of the C so you will need it in dealer mode to adjust turn the screw ever so slowly till the bar meets the middle of the C. If you have SDS hooked up you will see under Data monitor TPS will read 27.9 degrees once cet correctly. After you have set the TPS re-install the air box then TB's tighten it all back up. Proceed with the sync process per the manual either using SDS or dealer mode. After this you should be back to stock spec and the mileage will jump to mid 40's whether your putting or racing it. It will still lean surge a bit at 3500 rpm's even perfect but that is the cheap single phase O2 sensor Suzuki uses, nothing can be done with it except bypass it. DoBeck Performance can sell you one for about $15 bucks but be for-warned I have my 3rd one on the way die to failures in the resistor they are using. Hopefully 3rd time is the charm. You can prop the tank up plenty enough to get access to the airscrews wit hthe engine running. I used 2x4's stacked front and rear of tank. 1/2 tank or lower makes handling the tank easier.

Don't be terrified to work on this bike it is really easy to work on but complicated to tune due to the electronics. If you can use a computer and use basic hand tools you can work on this bike.

I really appreciate this Roy. Looks like I need to spend some coin on a manual, throttle sync tool and some software.

bones said:

I really appreciate this Roy. Looks like I need to spend some coin on a manual, throttle sync tool and some software.

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Service manual was posted here and a few other places online for free download. I would buy the Motion Pro from Motion Pro to insure you get a up to date model. SDS Software link cable is through the roof and most dealers will not order it for you. SDS Cable link is like $500 plus and the CD software is another $150. Use your dealers laptop if they will allow you to do this since chances are they do not know how to perform this work. Most likely you do not want them to earn on your bike. This all could be fixed under your warranty since it came this way the TPS is not easy to fiddle with so the yknow you did not move it. I opted to do the work myself Suzuki was no help as usual. Like I said earlier you can do it in just dealer mode alone but watch the temp of the engine not sure how one is suppose to do that since this bike has NO friggin guage.

Well it literally died leaving work. Pulled over, frustrated, helmet off. Hit the starter.....fired back up.

Cut out a ton on the 7 miles home and I called the dealer, left a message to get this pile fixed under warranty.

Can't wait to get my Duke next week.