The DR/DRZ Thread

[The Bruce]

Originally Posted by sz rider

You know I've found old tractor parts buried in the ground that looked better that that header pipe , I just happen to have an extra someone gave me if you ever need it cbat

A new one would just end up looking like that one. Days of riding in the back country tend to bake on the dust and muck. I call it, character. And it looks good on the FrankenDRZ. kinda like bolts sticking out the side of the neck.

[Coolhand]

Bronco!

Dude thanks a bunch, pictures and everything! I figured the little yellow guy was a key of some kind, but it didn't move when I pried on it and I didn't want to break anything. Thanks again man, I sure appreciate it!

Edit:
Well I still owe Bronco a beer for taking the time to pull his seat off and show me how that connector works, but unfortunately that didn't solve my problem. I'm getting spark now, but it will still only fire up for a second or two (and usually only with the choke engaged) and then it dies immediately. Arg... so frustrating... back to the drawing board. At least I fixed one problem (bad pickup coil) but now it looks like I have to fix the problem that caused the problem. I started ohming out the CDI but no luck so far, and the wife has plans for the morning. So it looks like another week (week 3) of bicycle commuting for me.

[Trailduster]

Originally Posted by CBAT

A new one would just end up looking like that one. Days of riding in the back country tend to bake on the dust and muck. I call it, character. And it looks good on the FrankenDRZ. kinda like bolts sticking out the side of the neck.

Yeah yours gets ridden like it was intended, Great Divide and beyond, mine goes to the store and around town pretty much, I detail it like it was a show bike or something, one of these days I'll get it dirty. medicjeff's bike is just like yours, ridden hard and put up wet, stuff hanging on it.

[Trailduster]

Originally Posted by bronco78

The DRZ R/R are not normally an issue, ever.. Short of physical damage.

Have you done the Free Power Mod as seen in the DRZ FAQ at TT? If not start there along with clean tight battery connections.
The OEM speedo has been known to have issues with the circuit board soldiering of connections. , but is normally a works or not deal,,, what you describe is a power supply deal.

Found the problem right off the bat, positive loose at batt, the little bolt was tight but I could wiggle the connector, put a washer in to help snug it up and filed the connections a little till nice and shiney. Thanks for your help bronco and knowledge. Coolhand, sorry about your bike troubles, I feel your disapointment.

[Coolhand]

Alright dudes... situation isn't much changed on my DR but I'm curious if any of y'all have CDI experience?

Replaced the pickup coil and now bike gets spark but won't stay running. Just starts and immediately dies. I've tried flipping the leads from the pickup coil to see if the color code was wrong (has been in the past, apparently) with no luck.

So, I ohmed out the CDI pins per page 6-20 in the manual.


I don't have "09900-25002: Pocket tester", I do have a cheap-o little DVM... so I'm not sure how much of a difference that made. (See the little "NOTE" on the manual page...) Anyway, I'm curious what those of you "in the know" think of these results.

Everything was in range except the following:
Vertical column under #4 was a bit high 50% of the time.
Vertical column under #9 was low at ~ 30kOhm most of the time.
Had difficulty getting results for column "10"... readout changed very slowly. Must be a bunch of inductance or capacitance from pin 10?
Column #11 was completely dead - open circuit?
Horizontal row #9 read almost all 100 kOhm and same with row #11.

So does this mean the CDI is probably dead too? Anybody know how to test the ignition coil?

ARG... I want to ride my bike...

Edit:
Gonna shoot myself.... CDI is $517 at BikeBandit....

[Trailduster]

I went and looked at the CDI on bike bandit, 517.00, and there are two used ones on ebay for 100.00 ea. I also compared the part#s to the Z but not the same as I expected, I have an extra Z cdi, coil etc. just wishing I could help you some how.

[WoodButcher]

Just to ask the simple questions. Tank is hooked up and fuel is flowing? Don't remember whether you have the stock petcock still on there or not, but if the vacuum line isn't hooked up you get short run times.

[centextom]

Originally Posted by D.Allen

Yeah, I bought the TM40 kit from Procycle about 2 years ago. The Procycle guys know what they're doing. The bike runs perfect and accelerates instantly off idle with no hesitation. Easy install on an 07' DR, with header flange weld mod, air box mod, and FMF Q2 exhaust. The bike no longer surges, and will smoothly accelerate from low rpm one gear higher without jerking like it did before with the stock carb and settings. Basically, if I slow for a corner or an obstacle I can roll on the throttle and accelerate away without downshifting, where before I would of had to shift down a gear or two. It makes a big difference. It's harder to feel the effect to the top end, but it gets there in a hurry. I would do it again. The DR motor is all about lower rpm torque anyway. Anything else you want to know about the TM40?

Ive got the fmf header and pipe, and rejetted and airbox mod, and Ive had a dead spot right when I blip the throttle from Idle, and Im real tired of this issue. I adjust the air screw all the time, and just cant get rid of that dead spot on start, so thats why Ive been wondering about the mikuni, and I think Ill go that way. Thx, Tom

[Coolhand]

Originally Posted by WoodButcher

Just to ask the simple questions. Tank is hooked up and fuel is flowing? Don't remember whether you have the stock petcock still on there or not, but if the vacuum line isn't hooked up you get short run times.

Tank is hooked up with plenty of fuel, aftermarket petcock with no vacuum line. Stopper on carb vacuum input still secure.

[D.Allen]

Originally Posted by centextom

Ive got the fmf header and pipe, and rejetted and airbox mod, and Ive had a dead spot right when I blip the throttle from Idle, and Im real tired of this issue. I adjust the air screw all the time, and just cant get rid of that dead spot on start, so thats why Ive been wondering about the mikuni, and I think Ill go that way. Thx, Tom

I followed the DR forums on ADV, Thumpertalk, and Yahoo for a long time before deciding on the TM40. Some seem to be able to tune the stock Mikuni CV to their satisfaction, but I think most still have some surging that's more or less inherent on the CV carb, I didn't have the off-idle dead spot with the CV carb (initially too rich? maybe move the clip on the needle up one slot). If your idle speed is to low, it can also affect response. Try increasing the idle and see if that helps. It sounds best when it lopes along just fast enough to keep running, but it will run better when idling a good bit faster. Suzuki lists a recommended idle rpm, but unless you've installed a tach, You'll have to rely on your ear. There is a guy that post as MX Rob on Thumpertalk and has his own website, who has done extensive tuning on the DR, first with the Mikuni BST40 (CV), then with the Keihin 39mm FCR carb. In terms of tractability and overall performance, the flat slide carbs put the CV carb to shame. MX Rob may be able to help you out with the dead spot issue you are experiencing with the CV carb if you want to give it another try.
Between the Mikuni and the Keihin flat slide carbs, the Keihin is more complex and more adjustable than the Mikuni, but the performance is about the same. In the end I went with the Mikuni TM40 kit from ProCycle, because of the positive comments of their customers, and for the bolt-on convenience. ProCycle will set up their carb based on your elevation and any intake/exhaust modifications that you've made. Their customer service is good, and the kit includes new throttle cables, a range of jets, tuning guide, and good installation instructions. You get to clean up your bars and lose a cable by moving the choke to the carb, and you lose the CV intake filter under your seat. It seems like I paid about $450.00 for the ProCycle kit. My mpg didn't change. I've always gotten around 110 miles before hitting reserve.

[WoodButcher]

Originally Posted by Coolhand

Tank is hooked up with plenty of fuel, aftermarket petcock with no vacuum line. Stopper on carb vacuum input still secure.

I had to ask, just in case.

[JasonJ]

Originally Posted by Coolhand

Tank is hooked up with plenty of fuel, aftermarket petcock with no vacuum line. Stopper on carb vacuum input still secure.

there is an orange part that could solve your problems...

[gotdurt]

Originally Posted by Coolhand

Alright dudes... situation isn't much changed on my DR but I'm curious if any of y'all have CDI experience?

Replaced the pickup coil and now bike gets spark but won't stay running. Just starts and immediately dies. I've tried flipping the leads from the pickup coil to see if the color code was wrong (has been in the past, apparently) with no luck.

So, I ohmed out the CDI pins per page 6-20 in the manual.


I don't have "09900-25002: Pocket tester", I do have a cheap-o little DVM... so I'm not sure how much of a difference that made. (See the little "NOTE" on the manual page...) Anyway, I'm curious what those of you "in the know" think of these results.

Everything was in range except the following:
Vertical column under #4 was a bit high 50% of the time.
Vertical column under #9 was low at ~ 30kOhm most of the time.
Had difficulty getting results for column "10"... readout changed very slowly. Must be a bunch of inductance or capacitance from pin 10?
Column #11 was completely dead - open circuit?
Horizontal row #9 read almost all 100 kOhm and same with row #11.

So does this mean the CDI is probably dead too? Anybody know how to test the ignition coil?

ARG... I want to ride my bike...

Edit:
Gonna shoot myself.... CDI is $517 at BikeBandit....

I've dealt with a couple of CDI's; tesing according to the charts proved pointless... I tested one on my KLR that tested bad, bit the bullet and replaced it, then it turned out that it wasn't wasn't the problem Years later I was having issues with my NX, logic suggested that the CDI was bad, but it tested good, so it took me a couple of months of messing with other stuff before I finally went with my gut and replaced the CDI, despite that it "tested" ok... and fixed the problem.

How long will it run? Typically CDI's fail when they get hot, so it takes a little bit before they shut down, then it won't restart until the CDI cools off.

[centextom]

Originally Posted by D.Allen

I followed the DR forums on ADV, Thumpertalk, and Yahoo for a long time before deciding on the TM40. Some seem to be able to tune the stock Mikuni CV to their satisfaction, but I think most still have some surging that's more or less inherent on the CV carb, I didn't have the off-idle dead spot with the CV carb (initially too rich? maybe move the clip on the needle up one slot). If your idle speed is to low, it can also affect response. Try increasing the idle and see if that helps. It sounds best when it lopes along just fast enough to keep running, but it will run better when idling a good bit faster. Suzuki lists a recommended idle rpm, but unless you've installed a tach, You'll have to rely on your ear. There is a guy that post as MX Rob on Thumpertalk and has his own website, who has done extensive tuning on the DR, first with the Mikuni BST40 (CV), then with the Keihin 39mm FCR carb. In terms of tractability and overall performance, the flat slide carbs put the CV carb to shame. MX Rob may be able to help you out with the dead spot issue you are experiencing with the CV carb if you want to give it another try.
Between the Mikuni and the Keihin flat slide carbs, the Keihin is more complex and more adjustable than the Mikuni, but the performance is about the same. In the end I went with the Mikuni TM40 kit from ProCycle, because of the positive comments of their customers, and for the bolt-on convenience. ProCycle will set up their carb based on your elevation and any intake/exhaust modifications that you've made. Their customer service is good, and the kit includes new throttle cables, a range of jets, tuning guide, and good installation instructions. You get to clean up your bars and lose a cable by moving the choke to the carb, and you lose the CV intake filter under your seat. It seems like I paid about $450.00 for the ProCycle kit. My mpg didn't change. I've always gotten around 110 miles before hitting reserve.

Ive tried moving the clip, different jets, and still have the after idle dead spot even when its at its best. Seems to worsen when its real hot. Ive already taken the chock cable off and gone with the knob on the carb, and have bought stuff from procycle, and Kientech, and really like both of them. Kientechs price is 275.00 and only includes the setup per where you live and throttle cables, and Pro Cycle is 349.00 with a wide variety of jets which seems like a wste to me since you only use the one specific to where you ride. So Ill prolly go with the Kientech due to price, and will check with MXbob first. I did talk to Eddie Sicneros at Thumpertalk, and got no place with him. Thx

[DRZBRI]

Greetings all. I just joined today and wanted to say hello to the "yellow bike" crowd. I love my DRZ the only two things I would change are upgrade the carb to fuel injection and add another gear, but then they wouldn't be so cheap.

[E.Marquez]

Originally Posted by DRZBRI

Greetings all. I just joined today and wanted to say hello to the "yellow bike" crowd. I love my DRZ the only two things I would change are upgrade the carb to fuel injection and add another gear, but then they wouldn't be so cheap.

Oh there are lots of things to add.....
Welcome, please place your credit card info in a PM to me.. We can talk about my schedule and how quickly I can work you in to the shop.. I'll need at least 5 working days to get your stroker crank and 94mm bigbore piston kit in. The 39mm FCR carb I can have in just 2 days.. Did you want to service and upgrade the suspension while here this week? or wait till next month? I'd suggest while we have the motor down you have the head worked over by SSW in Colorado, new RHC valves and springs for sure...

So let me know when you are dropping the bike off.. I’ll make room.

[DRZBRI]

I appreciate the offer, but I am happy with it for now. I haven't even finished the break in procedure yet (I have 600 miles on the odo). I rejetted the carb, moded the air box, added full fmf exhaust before the bike had ever been fired up. It runs ok for now, I can wheelie through 4th with little effort. If I want a lot more bike, I will probably just sell it and go with a Husky TE610 or KTM, not that the drz isn't a good bike, but it would be cheaper over all. Where is your shop?

[E.Marquez]

Originally Posted by DRZBRI

I appreciate the offer, but I am happy with it for now. I haven't even finished the break in procedure yet (I have 600 miles on the odo). I rejetted the carb, moded the air box, added full fmf exhaust before the bike had ever been fired up. It runs ok for now, I can wheelie through 4th with little effort. If I want a lot more bike, I will probably just sell it and go with a Husky TE610 or KTM, not that the drz isn't a good bike, but it would be cheaper over all. Where is your shop?

LOL.. My shop is my privet garage in Kempner. .. .
NOTE, break in was done about 550 miles ago.
if you get bored, have a look over at Thumpertalk in the DRZ forum... I may have made a post or two over there reference the DRZ that you might find interesting.

[The Bruce]

Originally Posted by DRZBRI

Greetings all. I just joined today and wanted to say hello to the "yellow bike" crowd. I love my DRZ the only two things I would change are upgrade the carb to fuel injection and add another gear, but then they wouldn't be so cheap.

I'm with you on both upgrades from the factory.

[Trailduster]

rejetting, 3x3 mod and a good slip on made mine a wheelie machine as well, I know the FCR makes a HOSS out of the S but I'm happy with the bsr36, it kinda keeps me out of trouble with attempting any air time.