It's Cold in Them Rockies!

[greeneggs&ham]

This is the ride report from the “Ham Hanging with the Bears” trip. The plan was to start in Albuquerque, ride north on the CDR to Colo. and Wyoming, then return thru Moab, Utah and Southwestern Colo. Thru that original post, I received lots of good advice, so the plan was altered to start in Las Vegas N.M. (6200 ft) and ride the CDR north to Rawlings, Wyoming, then turn S.W. back down the western side of the Rockies to Durango and then back to Las Vegas.

So I took off (after changing the date several times) on Wednesday, August 22nd. The trip out went real good and I arrived in Las Vegas 13 hrs. later at about 5:00 mountain time. I checked into the hotel and started to get my gear packed to go on the bike. That evening, I spied two BMW bikes parked at the hotel next door. I caught Vtwin and his riding partner walking across the parking lot coming back from dinner. We talked for a few minutes; they had ridden from Dallas that morning and were going to do some southern Colo. road riding this week. It was nice to see another TWT’er and put a face with a screen name.

The next morning, Thursday Aug. 23rd. came real fast. The storage lot didn’t open until 9:00, and it was a quick drive over. I was actually 10 minutes early, so I went over to the Walmart parking lot and started putting my dry bag and other bag on the bike. Right at 9:00, I pulled up to the office and went inside. Filled out all the paper work and was instructed where to park. Once parked, and while unloading the bike, I realized there was a reason why I had not put the bags on before – it makes it very top heavy! So finally I am dressed, I have gone over the bike and all the gear, and I’m ready to start the journey.



The storage lot is right off 518, so at 9:50, I am headed north to Taos. I had planned on taking some of the forest roads off of 518 to the east of Angle Fire in order to get a little dirt, but I was having such a great ride on 518, that when it came time to turn off, I stayed on the pavement. You have to understand, this was great pavement. I never saw a pothole or rough section on this road! The asphalt was in excellent shape, not good, excellent! I pulled into Taos about 11:30, ready for lunch. I stopped at a BBQ place called Jeff’s. Excellent choice, very tender with tasty spices, everything was seasoned very well. It would be awhile before I got to Chama, so I wanted to fill up, me and the bike.

I left Taos about 1:00, went north on 64 across the Gorge, up to Tres Piedras, where I stopped in the ranger station to check on the conditions of the CDR. I could see rain clouds all around me and I had seen the news the night before - there was a low spinning over Arizona and it was bringing rain to central N.M. and southern Colorado, but was supposed to be out of here by Friday. I can handle one day of rain. In the ranger station, the young man behind the desk said they had some trees damaged by a storm a month ago on the CDR up near the Hwy 17 area, but he thought it had been cleared. No problem; as I walked out of the station it started to rain. I put on my Revolt pullover and zipped up my vents - I think I’m going to get wet. But this is what I left Texas for, right?

Here’s some video of the ride up Hwy 64. This is of the section right after the Rio Grande Gorge. It is before it starts climbing at Tres Piedras. These Videos are from a new pov goggle camera that a friend gave me before this ride. This is only the second time I have used it. The pov seems to be right in front of the bike, so of the 470 pictures/videos I have, some are great and some are of the ground. But I do like it a lot; I never have to pull out the camera.

VID00005 - YouTube

VID00005 - YouTube

This is some of the first part of the CDR that I got on.

VID00014 - YouTube

VID00014 - YouTube

VID00017 - YouTube

VID00017 - YouTube

Yes, it is smooth graded road. So Far! It is still sprinkling on me every now and then. The area is very green from the summer rains they have already had. There are no buildings to be seen in this area, very remote and quiet. I stop several times just to take it all in.

This is a video of the area the Ranger was talking about.

VID00022 - YouTube

VID00022 - YouTube

Not impassable, but still glad they had cut out the downed trees. I am pretty sure the trucks that did the clearing caused this, since this is the only area I found rutted like this. Once I got past the cleared area, I did not see any large mud holes again. It really was easy trail!



The clouds to the north and west are getting very dark now and the rain is getting a little harder and a little colder. Soon I reach the Hwy 17 intersection. I looked at the time and decided to head into Chama and get gas.

VID00031 - YouTube

VID00031 - YouTube

As I ride through Chama, there is sleet on the ground. I thought that was a very cold rain, but I kept telling myself it was just the speed of the bike making it feel colder. You have to go to the south side of town to find a gas station. The first one I saw was at the intersection of Hwy 17 and 84/64. I pulled in, a Phillips I think, and filled up. At that time I thought about riding the 25 or so miles north back to the CDR to find a camping spot, or just stay in town. I was not wet as much as I was cold. The riding gear I brought along kept me pretty dry, but not insulated enough, and to think, driving through west Texas I thought I should have brought some vented gear. Anyway, I looked at the motel sign next to the gas station and it said M/C welcome – hey, that’s me! Decision made!

I walked in and asked about a single room, and was told there were 2 left at $75 dollars. She must have read my face, cause I was thinking this looks to be a clean place but it looks like a 50’s motor hotel, I was thinking $40 bucks! Anyway, she said, “you won’t be disappointed and you won’t find a nicer room in Chama.” Well, I am still hee-hawing around and I must have thought out loud that I was thinking of camping tonight when she replied, “you don’t want to do that, it gets real cold out here this time of year at night”. “OK,” I said, all the time thinking, I should ride north and camp.

The inn keeper was correct – it was a very nice room, with fridge, microwave and flat screen TV with cable. I had eaten a snack about 3:00 out on the trail at one of my stops, so I was not hungry to the point of buying a dinner, so I just walked out to a covered area they had in the courtyard of the motel and watched the local traffic go by. After phoning my wife around 6:00, I heard the train come into town, so I decided to walk to the north end of town and take some pictures of the train. Chama is a very quiet little town, and I am glad I decided to stay. I took some picture and headed back to the motel. Here’s a sample.







When I returned, it was just about time for my wife to call me back after her class, so I sat on the benches in front of the motel, and thought about my first ride in the Northern N.M. rockies. It was a great day! Day 1
Things change on Day 2. Sam

[AustinJake]

In for the ride, thanks for writing this up, Sam, looks to be a great adventure!

[tshelfer]

Been meaning to get to Chama for years. Thanks for the inspiration.

[rawhide]

very inspiring .

[Gravel Guy]

In for the green eggs and rockies!

[The Bruce]

Great start.

[japako]

I'm in.. Sounds great.

[M38A1]

In Chalma did you go look at the giant coal pile? I had no concept of what coal was for a fuel source until I saw that pile at the train depot.


.

[vtwin]

Hi Sam,
It was good to chat with you at the hotel in Las Vegas. Mark and I were wondering how the ride was going for you. We ended up running into a huge thunderstorm right after Chama and then another just after we arrived in Pagosa Springs. We ended up riding mostly around southern Colorado and New Mexico to try to avoid the rain and often wondered if it was affecting you.
Glad to hear you made it back OK and looking forward to the rest of the RR.
Cheers
Howard

[greeneggs&ham]

Originally Posted by M38A1

In Chalma did you go look at the giant coal pile? I had no concept of what coal was for a fuel source until I saw that pile at the train depot.


.

Yeah, I got a picture of the coal pile, but with 470 odd pictures I can only include so many. But I was amazed they still used coal. I think the steam train here in Austin used oil, didn't it?


Vtwin: Well I got wet every day. Each evening I would watch the news and be told, "tomorrow is the last day of the rain." I never did get a chance to camp.
It was great to meet you, glad you were able to ride around most of the wet stuff. Glad y'all made it back ok, hope you experienced some great roads. Things didn't turn out as planned but that is part of the adventure. It's going to take awhile to get up the rest of the story, I am still downloading pictures and video, and trying to edit out what is worthy to post. Sam

[mcrider]

Not impassable, but still glad they had cut out the downed trees. I am pretty sure the trucks that did the clearing caused this, since this is the only area I found rutted like this. Once I got past the cleared area, I did not see any large mud holes again. It really was easy trail!

Sam,
Is that an area just after a rocky down hill? That was there in '09 when Hoop & I rode thru.

Was that motel in Chama on the right after the 84/64 & 17 intersection?

[_RG_]

[budzrex]

Looking forward to hearing all about the trip Sam

[greeneggs&ham]

Originally Posted by mcrider

Sam,
Is that an area just after a rocky down hill? That was there in '09 when Hoop & I rode thru.

Was that motel in Chama on the right after the 84/64 & 17 intersection?

I was headed North on the trail, but I don't remember a rocky down hill, I think it's right at the Colo. border area, about 4 miles from Hwy 17. Lots of fresh cut up, downed trees. They left all the small ones, less than 12 inches around.
The motel is on the left headed south, right at that intersection, called the Chama Motor Inn. Sam

[2N2OUT]

Used to love Vera's Mexican Kitchen in Chama. It was so popular they had an adult softball team in Austin.

[bluedogok]

We were going to go through RMNP this afternoon, after a stop in Estes Park the clouds had built up quite a bit and it was very dark back towards the park so we just headed to Boulder and got some dinner. The ride from Estes to Boulder on 36 was challenging, the winds accelerating off the mountains were gusting hard, it seemed like we were all riding about 30 degrees tilted into the wind. The lowest temp I saw today was 62 but we never did get over 9,500 feet since we skipped the ride through the park. We didn't hit any rain though.

[Gravel Guy]

Originally Posted by bluedogok

We were going to go through RMNP this afternoon, after a stop in Estes Park the clouds had built up quite a bit and it was very dark back towards the park so we just headed to Boulder and got some dinner. The ride from Estes to Boulder on 36 was challenging, the winds accelerating off the mountains were gusting hard, it seemed like we were all riding about 30 degrees tilted into the wind. The lowest temp I saw today was 62 but we never did get over 9,500 feet since we skipped the ride through the park. We didn't hit any rain though.

I'd have to ride naked in 62 degree weather for a full day to drive the heat incurred over the last two summers out of my bones......

[Vinny]

[_RG_]

Originally Posted by Gravel Guy

I'd have to ride naked in 62 degree weather for a full day to drive the heat incurred over the last two summers out of my bones......

Hide your eyes Ethel!

[The Bruce]

Originally Posted by greeneggs&ham

I was headed North on the trail, but I don't remember a rocky down hill, I think it's right at the Colo. border area, about 4 miles from Hwy 17. Lots of fresh cut up, downed trees. They left all the small ones, less than 12 inches around.
The motel is on the left headed south, right at that intersection, called the Chama Motor Inn. Sam

If headed south the rock part is uphill