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Any EE's here?

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HiSPL

HiSPL

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Joined
Mar 21, 2004
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Location
College Station, TX
First Name
Tim
Last Name
Weaver
Just curious if an EEPROM could lose data if powered down for years?

My DL1000 had the hiccups between 3k-4k rpm. I used the loaner Yosh Box from one of the V Strom sites and richened it up and it was good for 20k+ miles after that. A few years ago I mothballed the Strom and now I'm going through it and fixing it up to ride. Among other maintenance I Kreemed the tank and replaced the fuel pump. Got it where I think the fuel system is 100% and on my test ride last night the hiccups are back between 3k-4k RPM!

Now it's my understanding that an EEPROM can't really lose re-written data which is what the Yosh Box does. Otherewise it could lose the whole map, right? Or is the factory map somehow not rewriteable, but what I'm really doing is modifying look up tables? IDK.

I'd like somebody to tell me that the ECU could lose this tuning and revert to stock if left unplugged for years. Then I'd know that the fuel system is probably good to go. Right now it makes troubleshooting difficult.
 
No....you successfully overwrote the standard data when you reflashed the PROM with the Yoshi box. Everything worked fine before you parked it. Have you checked for corrosion and making sure that everything is seated properly. If so, I would say your problem is elsewhere.
 
Agree, EEPROM are fixed memory registers that do not rely on a battery to maintain state. Once written over, the data should persist over whatever interval until reprogrammed or destroyed.
 
Now with that said.....did you jump the bike or anything to get it started? Don't know specifics of this bike....will it run if EEPROM is damaged or data is corrupt?
 
I've never heard of a V-strom having a "bad" ECU so I doubt it.

I didn't jump it per se, but I did hook up a car battery to the new moto battery while I was troubleshooting just to keep the voltage up.
 
Ok, so likely my tune is in place and the ECU is just fine. I have to start chasing down the other gremlins one at a time now.


The bike runs good at all RPM and throttle positions when cold. As it warms up it starts to stumble and pop through about 3800 rpm at small throttle openings. As it gets hotter the stumbling and popping gets worse and the poor throttle response gets worse.

The bike seems like it's running lean too. It gets hotter (3 bars on gauge) while below 4k rpm. If I maintain the same speed but shift into a lower gear the temp comes down to 2 bars which is where this bike used to always run. The only time I saw 3 bars before was going slow off-road or stuck in traffic on a hot day.

Anyway I rode it 45 miles to work tonight and it runs great above 4k, but it's obnoxious below that. I don't think it's a fuel pump issue because it will pull strong right up to redline in any gear. (well, you know what I mean. I obviously wasn't hitting redline in 6th! lol)
 
I had a similar issue with my 03 a few years ago. I finally found where a mouse had chewed the insulation off a wire and it was shorting on the engine. Don't remember which wire but it was in the wiring harness that the power commander was plugged into.
 
A mouse is a possibility. It was stored in a unit by the airport. A&M started building behind the units and ran all the mice, then all the snakes into our storage facility! I did have a bunch of dryer sheets all over it and stuffed in every opening. They are supposed to keep mice away, but who knows....

I also had to knock a Mud Dauber nest off the throttle bodies lol.
 
241616most comfortable pair of EE 's I ever owned
 
As the engine warms up it leans out the F/A ratio and at light cruise it is not flowing much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
focus frenzy said:
As the engine warms up it leans out the F/A ratio and at light cruise it is not flowing much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Click to expand...
Yeah, makes sense.


I am doing a throttle body sync tonight. They were a little out, but that made the Throttle position sensor go out of adjustment even more than it already was (just a little bit) which is ok. I'm happy to get that pot on a different part of the trace than it was sitting on for years.

ABout to put the tank back on and cruise it a little. See if I made any difference.

You probably know this since you have the SV but the throttle plate you adjust for a sync is the one that has the position sensor on it, and when that moves the idle goes up or down. The three items are inter-connected and have to be working in perfect harmony to run right.
 
Oh, AND the airbox has to be on the bike to sync the throttle bodies! There's basically no access to get to where you need to go so you end up using all kinds of weird contraptions to make it work! lol
 
Check for vacuum leak. Throttle bodies on Vstroms known for slipping out of the rubber manifold. cracked or leaking hoses, etc.
 
RTL said:
Check for vacuum leak. Throttle bodies on Vstroms known for slipping out of the rubber manifold. cracked or leaking hoses, etc.
Click to expand...

That was checked both visually and with spraying carb cleaner while running. The intake boots are solid and the airbox boots are good too. I did inspect the vacuum lines under the airbox, but I need to dif further on that front. I also DC'd, cleaned and reconnected as many electrical plugs as I could get to. Also looked for chafed or broken wiring. None found so far, but I need to continue that search into the seat section.

Also valves were checked and are in spec.
 
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