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Africa Twin thread

I just came in from my workshop trying to install new air filters in the twin but the little window ac can’t cool the space down enough to want to say out there for morn than a few mins.

Guess tomorrow is supposed to be a bit cooler


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Im in Glacier National Park on my AT and it is 90+.


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This is insane weather all over the nation, 105 in Austin today, will be in Ouray CO this Saturday, highs in the 80's :)
 
Im in Glacier National Park on my AT and it is 90+.


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Seems kind of normal for this time of year. The record high for July is 97. Monday the high temp between Manor and Elgin was 113! 3rd highest recorded.:giveup:
 
The cogent rear spring was the ticket! No more wallowing front end, geometry is how the oem is without rider or luggage:)
 
The cogent rear spring was the ticket! No more wallowing front end, geometry is how the oem is without rider or luggage:)

I may go that route. But it'll be a while. Just got mine back from woods. New tires and brakes. The new more street times sure make a world of difference on the toll road. So much more stable and that's makes the ride more enjoyable for me.:rider:
 
The cogent rear spring was the ticket! No more wallowing front end, geometry is how the oem is without rider or luggage:)

Who did that work on the bike? I'm still kicking around suspension upgrades.
 
My last tire change was done at a KTM dealer. I'm getting ready to attempt my first DIY rear tire change on my AT and noticed this:

at_stop.jpg


I'm guessing that's not right, but not sure what right looks like.

My CRF250L looks like this:
250_stop.jpg


What's going on in that AT pic and what do I need to fix there?
 
Who did that work on the bike? I'm still kicking around suspension upgrades.



Me, I took the shock to shop that had a spring compressor. Took them 10 minutes! Easy install and remove.

Todd at cogent said this was the best spring for my weight with gear without revalving. I will probably add a shin to the rebound this winter. I told him I weighed 195 and gear was probably 60??

Btw, the spring is only $150 shipped!
 
Me, I took the shock to shop that had a spring compressor. Took them 10 minutes! Easy install and remove.

Todd at cogent said this was the best spring for my weight with gear without revalving. I will probably add a shin to the rebound this winter. I told him I weighed 195 and gear was probably 60??

Btw, the spring is only $150 shipped!
Very cool, thanks for the info.
 
What's going on in that AT pic and what do I need to fix there?

Those are the adjusters for the chain tension. The bolt heads should be in contact with the blocks. There is likely an alignment mark on both sides of the bike and they should should be adjusted the same. The nut is a lock nut. It should be snug against the base of the bolt, not the head.

Edit: On the AT, those lines are likely the marks that you want to be equal from side to side.
 
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Those are the adjusters for the chain tension. The bolt heads should be in contact with the blocks. There is likely an alignment mark on both sides of the bike and they should should be adjusted the same. The nut is a lock nut. It should be snug against the base of the bolt, not the head.

Edit: On the AT, those lines are likely the marks that you want to be equal from side to side.

Thanks for the info. I'll get them adjusted before I remove the wheel. Much appreciated.
 
A detail I didn't mention is that the axle nut has to be loose to make adjustments.
 
A detail I didn't mention is that the axle nut has to be loose to make adjustments.

Oh, I was thinking I would get them to where they were at least touching the blocks before losing the axle nut, then do the final alignment.
 
On a lot of bikes, those marks aren’t accurate - not sure about the AT. Usually the best way to do it is adjust the chain side to get the correct tension on the chain and then adjust the other side so the rear sprocket aligns with the center of the chain (not hitting the links on the left or right side as the chain meshes with the sprocket teeth. There are tools you can buy to make sure it’s properly adjusted. But, if you take your time and sight it from the rear, you should be able to get it properly aligned.
 
Those are the adjusters for the chain tension. The bolt heads should be in contact with the blocks. There is likely an alignment mark on both sides of the bike and they should should be adjusted the same. The nut is a lock nut. It should be snug against the base of the bolt, not the head.

Edit: On the AT, those lines are likely the marks that you want to be equal from side to side.



The below is from the service manual:

3b9bb81257facbaaf47422ad8aac66b3.jpg


Edit: The marks on my AT are pretty close to even. I’ve verified it with a chain alignment tool as well.
 
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On a lot of bikes, those marks aren’t accurate - not sure about the AT. Usually the best way to do it is adjust the chain side to get the correct tension on the chain and then adjust the other side so the rear sprocket aligns with the center of the chain (not hitting the links on the left or right side as the chain meshes with the sprocket teeth. There are tools you can buy to make sure it’s properly adjusted. But, if you take your time and sight it from the rear, you should be able to get it properly aligned.

Hey, never thought of doing that way. Sounds MUCH easier and probably more accurate than me eye balling it from behind! lol:trust:
 
On a lot of bikes, those marks aren’t accurate - not sure about the AT. Usually the best way to do it is adjust the chain side to get the correct tension on the chain and then adjust the other side so the rear sprocket aligns with the center of the chain (not hitting the links on the left or right side as the chain meshes with the sprocket teeth. There are tools you can buy to make sure it’s properly adjusted. But, if you take your time and sight it from the rear, you should be able to get it properly aligned.

At first glance, there seems to be a cover over the top of the chain that prevents the eye ball method. Has anyone tried it this way?
 
At first glance, there seems to be a cover over the top of the chain that prevents the eye ball method. Has anyone tried it this way?



Yes - three 6mm allen screws and that cover comes off easily.
 
Put another oem chain on yesterday. Got 20k miles out of first one. It had a tight spot in it, so decided to change it.

I am happy! I change my sprockets out every other chain. Tutoro Oiler works like a charm.
 
Put another oem chain on yesterday. Got 20k miles out of first one. It had a tight spot in it, so decided to change it.

I am happy! I change my sprockets out every other chain. Tutoro Oiler works like a charm.

I'm right at 14000 on mine. I'm not sure how to tell when you need one other than when it stretches so far you can't adjust it.
 
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