You call that a road? - a memorable Mexico ride

[Trail Boss]

Once over the top of the mountains we began the descent toward the desert to the west.

If you haven't ridden this road I recommend putting it on your list for the next time you are in the area. I promise you it is well worth it.

Southwest of the pueblo of Siberia we located the dirt road that we hoped would take us south to Marcela.

I asked a local if the road went to Marcela and he told me that we couldn't get through. However, JT and I decided to give it a go anyway.

The road started off great. We went through a couple of gates as we climbed, climbed, and then climbed some more.

The riding was great and while this was the road we were looking for we could tell it wasn't being used on any regular basis. The further south we went the less travelled the road became.

Eventually we reached a locked gate. Unwilling to try and get through it, we studied the map for a bypass. The E32 indicated there were a few smaller dirt roads in the area that might work so off we went.

While we were able to locate the other roads, unfortunately none of them went through. They either ended at a fence or the road disappeared into the underbrush.

Eventually we came to the realization that we weren't going to be able to get through. The main road was locked and none of the other roads went through. Too bad - a southern route through the mountains to Marcela would have been great. It would have allowed us a straight shot to Marcela, avoiding a long loop west through the desert.

 

[Trail Boss]

Without a straight shot south to Marcela, we had to take the long way around to the west. An hour or so later we arrived in Miquihuana for a short break and some gasoline. Miquihuana doesn't have a Pemex so we purchased our gas from a 55 gallon drum.

Once our tanks were topped off, it was time to fill our bellies. The fellow selling grilled chicken at the town square was recommended to us so that's where we went next. it turned out to be a good choice.

At this point we had a decision to make. I was keen to ride a loop north through the mountains - I've been wanting to ride this particular loop for several years. JT agreed so we decided we would rent a room at the local hotel, drop our luggage, and then go ride the loop.

Unfortunately, the lady at the hotel told me the electricity was out and she didn't know when service might be re-established. I didn't really want to stay the night if there wouldn't be electricity so we decided we would instead make the 100 mile ride to Real de Catorce.

 

[Vinny]

Loving it so far. Thanks for putting the effort to post.

 

[Countingcoup]

Looks like a great time JT & Rich. I couldn't have kept up on the big V.
After the Summer heat I'd like to swap some .gpx with you guys & head down that way again.

 

[Mextrekadv]

$12 bad deal hotels, locked gates, and no electricity. What is rural Mexico throwing ya'll a curveball for? Great writeup!

 

[bwdmax]

It is a particularly rocky road. The first time I rode it I was with Milton and during one of our stops he casually mentioned that his first time on it he was riding "the Green Hornet" - his Harley cruiser. I just shook my head - unable to imagine riding a cruiser over this road.

I just noticed that JT may have the mirrors from "the Green Hornet" on his KLX. Those may bring good luck when riding in that back country.

 

[Tourmeister]

I hate to bring this up again, but I have gotten a few PMs on the issue, so please allow me to clarify.

It has been a long standing policy on the site that ride reports are for story telling and not for people to get into debates about things that may or may not have happened in the story. As such, whenever something like the recent locked gates issue has popped up, we have either asked folks to drop it, moved the posts to a separate thread, or just removed them. We have no problem with the debate itself, in its own thread. We just don't want to see it in a report thread. The posts in this thread were removed after several users (NOT JT or Richard ) complained about them. Their removal had nothing to do with Richard being a Site Sponsor. I have already told other users that if they want to start a new thread in the General DS forum about the issue of gates and reference the ride report, that is perfectly acceptable.

Now, back to the report...

 

[Trail Boss]

I just noticed that JT may have the mirrors from "the Green Hornet" on his KLX. Those may bring good luck when riding in that back country.

Good catch.

Yes, JT was running non-standard mirrors that would look more at home on a cruiser than a dual sport bike.

A short story: We were riding down the road with JT in the lead and I could see him messing around with the left mirror. Then a short distance later I noticed his left mirror was gone. Apparently those cruiser mirrors aren't designed to withstand such high speeds (60 mph) and so little vibration and came off in JT's hand as he was trying to adjust it. Once in Galeana he moved the right mirror to the left side of the bike and used that for the ride back to Texas. Not having a left side mirror really sucks.

 

[Trail Boss]

Tourmeister,

Thank you for posting that. I'm all for a "locked gates in Mexico" type of discussion. Just not in a ride report.

 

[Trail Boss]

After the Summer heat I'd like to swap some .gpx with you guys & head down that way again.

Sure,anytime. You are welcome to mine. FYI: JT has more tracks than I do.

 

[Trail Boss]

Vinny and Shadman,

Thanks for the compliments.

 

[texaspatrick]

 

[jhansen]

Always enjoy reading your reports, especially since I'm down for the count at the moment.

 

[Johnf3]

The picture of the narrow valley with the pine trees and the wildflowers looks remarkably like Cloudcroft. Y'all are my heroes. Would love to go on a scouting/route finding trip like this.

 

[JT]

The picture of the narrow valley with the pine trees and the wildflowers looks remarkably like Cloudcroft. Y'all are my heroes. Would love to go on a scouting/route finding trip like this.

It does look like CC. I mentioned that to Trail Boss.

 

[TGTUMBLEWEED]

great report fellers. I would love to join yall on a scouting trip, with enough heads up to get around the work schedule.
Later taters,

 

[Trail Boss]

The ride to Real was uneventful and we soon found ourselves at the start of the 24 kilometer long cobblestone road. I've been told that this road was originally built to haul the silver out of the mountains via wagon, meaning it is a very old road. I imagine riding this road on something with little to no suspension would be a spine and kidney jarring experience that most would not enjoy. Today, it's not bad on our dual sport bikes with modern suspension but I would guess that when it's wet it's probably a slick challenge to ride on a motorcycle.

The road crosses the desert, enters a valley, and then begins to climb into the mountains. Here is the view looking back across the valley and the desert beyond.

The original road into Real comes in from the west and crosses over the top of the mountains. It is quite steep and a bit treacherous. It must have been really difficult on the mule teams pulling the ore wagons out because the cobblestone road was built by first tunnelling through the mountains. I don't know how difficult it might have been to build a 1.2 kilometer tunnel through the mountains but, however tough it might have been, it was apparently better than continuing to try and get the ore out over the top of the mountains.

After climbing and twisting for a while you reach the welcome sign. The tunnel is just around the curve to the left.

The tunnel is one way, so we waited for a while for the cars exiting Real to clear out of the tunnel. Once in the tunnel I didn't stop to take any pics because there was a line of cars behind me. Next time though...

Real de Catorce is just as steep as I was led to believe. The city was built on the side of the mountain and there is almost no flat ground anywhere. Everything is on a slope. It is difficult to catch the steepness in photos but I did the best I could.

JT and I searched a bit for a hotel and finally decided upon the Hotel San Juan. Aside from not having any wifi, the hotel was fine.

After unloading the bikes and changing, it was time to walk the streets.

 

[humanrace]

Very nice. It's good to hear that other Americans like the street food in Mexico. loving the pictures.

 

[Vinny]

I have to make it to Real next time we do Galeana.

 

[tricepilot]

^ Stay at the Hotel Real Bonanza

Wifi, great parking

They rent 4 wheelers which you can take all around town and to the mines, as well as a ride out the "treacherous back way" to check it out & return.

 

[Trail Boss]

As luck would have it, there was a bar right around the corner from the hotel. Time for a cerveza.

Once a beer was secured we stood on the sidewalk outside the door of the bar and watched the traffic. The bar guy said it was okay but to step back inside if we saw any cops. I have no idea what's wrong with the leg of the guy in the background.

This little number was parked outside the hotel. It's the first time I've seen the Tenere in person and I was impressed with its good looks. Apparently Yamaha sells them in Mexico - wonder why they don't also sell them in the good 'ol USA?

In contrast, this bike's best days are long past.

Once our immediate thirst was quenched we spent some time walking the streets and enjoying the sights. It was Saturday evening and there were a ton of people in town and the vendors lined the streets with their wares.

Peanuts cooked in chili pepper.

Everything in Real de Catorce appears to be named with the word Real included. Accordingly, they don't have Starbucks coffee, they have a Realbucks coffee.

In the 1800s you would work all day in the mines and then go to church on Sunday.

With darkness descending on us, we decided it was time to find a bite to eat. Amongst the many street food options we chose Dona Mague's place. She sells gorditas of all types and the food was quite good.

Picadillo gorditas

And a little extra spice

After dinner I wanted to see Julia Robert's room. She and Brad Pitt filmed the movie "The Mexican" here and Milton had told me a story about staying in the same hotel room she had stayed in while filming. JT knew where it was so off we went to see.

Here's the evening view of the city from the balcony in front of Julia's room.

With that chore out of the way I decided I was done for the evening. I told JT goodnight and wandered off to my room. I mostly slept well but Saturday night is party night in Mexico and I did get awakened by some other hotel patrons returning to their rooms apparently more than a bit inebriated and laughing and talking at full "drunk volume".

 

[SpiritAtBay]

Great report. Really enjoying reading about yall's trip and seeing the pix.

Ya, Vinny--I'm thinking a side trip to Real in Oct is definitely in order.

 

[Trail Boss]

Great report. Really enjoying reading about yall's trip and seeing the pix.

Ya, Vinny--I'm thinking a side trip to Real in Oct is definitely in order.

Thanks for the compliment and I wholeheartedly recommend going to Real.

 

[Trail Boss]

JT and I spent some time walking around on Sunday morning, locating coffee and food. We finally settled on a small restaurant on the main street into town that offered both indoor and outdoor seating. As expected, the food was excellent.

Though it was early Sunday morning, the street vendors were busy opening shop and getting the wares properly displayed.

After buying souvenirs for our ladies back in Texas, we ambled to the hotel and began packing our bikes. A short time later JT led us out the back road. It is the only road in Mexico I have been on that clearly states it is limited to vehicles with doble traction (4 wheel drive). "Hmmm, this must be a special road to have a sign like that." I thought as we passed by the sign.

And, sure enough, this is a very special road. Wonderfully steep, scenic, and full of rocks. I highly recommend it to you.

Looking back the way we had just come. JT says the tower is part of the old smelting plant.

Tour operators bring the tourists down this road in old Willis Jeeps for a tour of the old smelting plant.

The luggage rack on top doubles as a seat for those adventurous to ride up there.

I am going to bring Mrs. Trail Boss here in the Fall (in our car) and pay for this ride. Care to take bets if she will ride on top?

More great scenery on the way out.

 

[Trail Boss]

Once back in the desert, JT and I headed north toward Mt Potosi. JT had identified a road that leads to the top from the west side of the mountain. Those who have ridden the main road to the top know that it is an incredibly jarring ride so an alternate route to the top might be a welcome discovery.

Near the base of the mountain we could see the afternoon clouds beginning to form.

After climbing several thousand feet we arrived at a small pueblo. Unable to locate the road we were looking for, I asked some local hombres who pointed us toward a small trail in the distance. We followed the trail, which eventually led us to the road we were looking for, but once there we decided to not go any further. By this time we could see that it was raining on the mountain and it appeared that more afternoon rain clouds were headed our way. So we waved goodbye to Mt Potosi with intent to return some day and explore this road further.

It was early enough in the afternoon that we could have made it all the way back to the border before darkness but JT's back was bothering him a bit and he was having an electrical issue with the DRZ so we rode into Galeana and got a room for night at the Hotel Magdalena. The sad news is that the General Restaurant is closed for an indefinite amount of time. The good news is that JT and I located a restaurant a block and a half south of the main plaza that was pretty good. I can see it being the preferred dinner restaurant during MexTrek.

The ride back to the border on Monday was uneventful. The views on Hwy 58 never disappoint.

Note to self - don't try to return to Texas at the end of a holiday period. The lines will just make you mad. Especially if it's hot.

And it was hot.

This is us waiting in line for over an hour just to do the paperwork to clear our bikes out of Mexico. Did you know that regular unleaded Mexican gasoline is colored red?

At least the line back into the USA was blessedly short ('cause everyone was hung up on the Mexico side trying to clear their vehicles).

Well, thanks for reading our story. I hope you enjoyed it even though hope is a mistake