• Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to register so that you can join the community and use the numerous features on the site. After registering, don't forget to post up an introduction!

A Summer Long Ride

Joined
Feb 10, 2022
Messages
686
Reaction score
1,227
Location
Lake Travis
I have lived in Texas most of my life. As long as I can escape into AC, I don't mind the heat so much. However, consistent 100 degree days in early May is ridiculous. My first escape from the heat started May 5 with a week long two wheel off road trip to Ticaboo, Utah. Highs in the 60s and lows in the 40s made coming back to the furnace just dreadful. Something else had to be done and this is my story.

day0-1.jpg

Above the Valley of the Gods - Muley Point east

I only made it one day before I started planning the next ride. This time, I would switch bikes and spend most of the time on paved roads. It has been a while since I last rode in the northwest. There are many places in that region I have not seen like Mount St. Helens. The cooler weather will be a welcome change. I am not seeing a downside. Therefore, I decide to ride north to Montana, west to Washington, south to California and east back to Texas.

Three days before takeoff, the weather forecast in elevated areas of Colorado and Wyoming started to dip below freezing with rain. It is June so I am in no mood for that kind of cold and wet. Hoping the weather up north would warm up the following week, I decided go clockwise instead.

The general idea

-Lubbock, Texas
-Pagosa Springs, Colorado
-Torrey, Utah
-Springdale, Utah
-Tonopah, Nevada
-Saratoga, California
-Fortuna, California
-Klamath Falls, Oregon
-Coos Bay, Oregon
-Packwood, Washington
-Joseph, Oregon
-Sun Valley, Idaho
-Dubois, Wyoming
-Glenwood Springs, Colorado
-Creede, Colorado
-Sweetwater, Texas

A few things I consider must haves

-Music with good ear buds
-Radar Detector
-Camelback
-Rain Gear
-Heated jacket and pants liner
-Cool and warm layers
-Compressor and plug kit
-A very small assortment of tools
-Canon EOS T7i DSLR
-GoPro Hero 8

I try to travel with as little luggage as I can. However, trips north of I-70 take a little more planning. Cold rainy weather often occurs in the summer afternoons. At elevation snow, sleet and freezing temperatures are not unusual. I have seen the folks that "just wing it" pay dearly up there. So, I reluctantly pack thirty extra pounds of Klim Carlsbad gear into in a dry bag on the pillion. At some point, I know I will be happy to have it.

Part I

Day 1 - Austin, Texas to Lubbock, Texas


Through trial and error, I have learned that leaving home in the late afternoon allows me to ride from Sweetwater to Lubbock in the dark. Considering it is the hottest part of the ride, darkness cools things off just enough to be reasonable. I usually stay in Lubbock overnight, get up early the next day and arrive in Santa Fe before it gets hot.

So, I am off and out the door at 4pm. It is 100 degrees and I think to myself, it could be worse as I climb on my bike and head north. As always, the first 100 miles or so are painful. The congestion, traffic lights and humid heat combine to put a damper on my mood. Not too far past Brownwood, a slight feeling of progress is noticeable. Excitement about the ride ahead begins to increase and any dread I may have felt is gone.

Just outside of Sweetwater, the red collision avoidance lights on the wind turbines light up randomly in the night sky. It is a mesmerizing experience that will take me off the road if I am not careful.
It is a long and mostly straight road from Sweetwater to Lubbock but thankfully it is dark and only 99 degrees. I pick up the pace to speed up the air conditioning and shower that is waiting for me at the hotel and arrive a there a short time later. That is how I turn a mostly full day to get out of Texas into only four total hours of heat. Cooler weather and elevation await me tomorrow.

Day 2 - Lubbock, Texas to Pagosa Springs, Colorado


The early morning ride northwest towards New Mexico is cool and pleasant. The countryside is rather flat but I grew up working on a farm/ranch. So, I enjoy looking at the land, grain elevators, tractors, combines, etc. It only takes about an hour and a half before Texas is in the rearview mirror. There is not much to look at in Clovis, New Mexico but sometimes Air Force cargo planes are doing pattern work which is interesting to watch. There is also a very cool F-111 near the edge of town.

day2-1.jpg


The ride west out of town eventually leads to Fort Sumner where Billy the Kid is supposedly buried. In addition to his grave, the Bosque Redondo, where the US calvary drove the Navajo to, is right next door. The Goodnight-Loving cattle drive trail passes right through town as well. Santa Rosa, the next town on my route is an interesting route 66 destination. There are several period buildings and an automotive museum which makes it a good place to stop for the night if need be. I keep seeing photos of the blue hole in hotel rooms and intend to take a dip there someday.

Santa Fe is the next destination and is reached by taking a painful I-40 west to Clines Corners then north for about 50 miles. The landscape changes from mesquite and other scrub to cedars and somewhat elevated rock formations. Lush mountains start to appear up close from Chama to Pagosa Springs. I thoroughly enjoy this stretch of road. The mountains, meadows, creeks, ponds and lakes are sure nice on the eyes. The cows even look happy.

After some spirited leaning on the twisty roads, I arrive at the destination for the day - Pagosa Springs. I checked into the hotel and proceed to a local brewpub for a beer and burger. Starting to feel the last 800 miles and not being quite used to it yet, I wander back to my hotel and call it the day.
 
Pagosa Springs, Colorado to Torrey, Utah

I have been on the road for a day and a half but today is the start I have been looking forward to. I do my normal thing, pack up and head outside. I walk around the corner and find a couple of guys hanging out around my bike having a smoke. They smile and say they were just watching it for me then ask where I am headed. I tell them and they proceed to offer some good information about the waterfalls in and around the Columbia river gorge. We shoot the bull for another half hour before I remember I have places to be. I bid them farewell and get moving.

map3.jpg


A slow start through Pagosa Springs quickly turns into a ride through cool mountain air. The smell of pine and fir reminds me I am no where near home as I make my way towards Durango. About 45 minutes later I skip along the southern edge of the town and continue west on 160 towards Cortez. Just outside of Durango, the ride becomes less congested, more elevated and scenic.

I know I am getting close to red rock country when Ute mountain comes into view. Being somewhat familiar with Butch Cassidy, I consider it an interesting experience to see the area on the mountain where his hideout is supposed to have been. Additionally, my route into southern Utah through the McElmo Canyon area was once known as the "Thieves Road".

map3b.jpg


day3-1.jpg


A little over 800 miles later I finally decide to use a camera but at the wrong time. The view of Ute mountain from McElmo canyon makes it look like a hill. Oh well, it made for a nice place to stop and take a break. Moving on, the ride through the canyon is pleasant as it winds back and forth towards the west. The only real indication one has crossed into Utah is the loss of greenery.
 
It takes about 1-2 hours to reach to US-191. I really like the scenery at Butler Wash, so I ride towards Blanding, Utah. Soon, Bears Ears and the Blue Mountains come into view. At Blanding, I take a left onto Utah-95 which in my opinion is a U.S. top 5 road. The mostly ho-hum scenery of the last one thousand miles rapidly diminish as I ride up, over and down the eastern side of the Butler Wash cliff face. This area is part of the Utah BDR and an interesting sight to see as it kind of just comes up on me.

day3-41.jpg

A little further down the road, the highway begins to meander along red cliffs to the left and White canyon to the right.

day3-2.jpg

The descent into the Colorado river basin.

day3-3.jpg

A geologic time capsule of Triassic and Jurassic strata on display.

day3-4.jpg

Variable cross winds from the side canyons combined with scenery like this make staying on the road interesting.

day3-5.jpg

The cliffs on the near horizon are on the other side of the Colorado river. The way to Hite, which used to be a settlement and ferry crossing seen below until covered by the rising water of Lake Powell in the 1960s. Butch Cassidy called this a "Dandy Crossing" and the name appears to have stuck.

casshiteferry.jpg

In recent years, the water has dropped below where the site was located. Unfortunately, no other signs besides the original ferry landing remain.
 

Attachments

  • day3-3.jpg
    day3-3.jpg
    458.8 KB · Views: 83
day3-6.jpg

There are very few man made things along this route. The Colorado river bridge lies in stark contrast to everything around it.

day3-7.jpg

The Colorado river comes into view.

day3-38.jpg

I did not stop here this time but I did two weeks prior. The bridge is rather impressive. Almost as much as the one in Page.

day3-39.jpg

Another photo from two weeks prior. On the bridge looking towards Dark Canyon - right around the bend.

day3-40.jpg

Back to the ride. Over the Colorado river and now the Dirty Devil.

day3-10.jpg

The large red wall. To the right is the Dirty Devil River canyon. To the left is the Colorado River.
 
day3-11.jpg

The Colorado River below Hite overlook.

day3-12.jpg

This side canyon turns away from the river towards Hanksville. Something about the twisting of the road, multiple rock layers and colors or red and orange always get my attention here.

day3-14.jpg

Cliff walls, must ride fast!

day3-15.jpg

Don't miss this turn off.
 
Hite Overlook

day3-31.jpg

At the overlook, there are large rectangular rocks near the edge. I guess they were placed there to keep people from driving off the cliff. They make for good objects to stand on to take photos. However, this time I got within a step or two of meeting this fella the hard way. At first, I thought it was a copperhead but quickly realized it was a rattlesnake covered in red dirt. They probably live under these large rocks. So be careful if you visit there.

day3-29.jpg

Blue skies disappearing at Hite overlook with the Colorado River bridge in background.

day3-30.jpg

Hite overlook - Looking the other direction - The Colorado river in 2022.

day3-compare.jpg

Hite overlook - The Colorado river in 2017.
 
day3-16.jpg

Back to Utah-95, I call these the turtle heads. Liteitup up calls them something else.

day3-17.jpg


day3-19.jpg


day3-22.jpg

Should it concern me I see skulls in these rocks.

day3-23.jpg

For over a hundred miles, there is no other reasonable way through this country. Because of that, the draw on the left is one of the very few defined areas of the old outlaw trail. It leads to to the old ferry "Dandy" crossing at Hite.

day3-24.jpg


day3-25.jpg

I purposely schedule this day to be only four hours long because I like to ride it multiple times in both directions. There is fuel in Ticaboo if you need it. The eastern end of the Burr Trail starts a few miles further in Bull Frog.
 
day3-37.jpg

The ride from here to Hanksville changes from canyon country to the San Rafael desert. From a couple of years ago, here is my bike on Leprechaun canyon road. The Henry Mountains are in the background.

day3-36.jpg

Another older photo, exactly ten miles south of Hanksville is the Angel Point trail. It is the most direct and perilous route into Robbers Roost.

Ten miles on this road takes about six minutes. My stomach also knows this and signals my brain that I better not pass up the burger place in Hanksville. I have been eating there for years but still don't know where all the high school kids that work there come from. They make good burgers though so who cares. I pull up at the store and proceed to eat too much.

Now weighted down with a belly of greasy beef and ice cream, I ride west on Utah-24. This is usually an easy going road that goes from cool to Capitol Reef fantastic, but not today. I guess I should have paid attention to the cloud build up. A serious dust storm snuck up and decided to let me have it. Where there were side canyons, 50mph gusts were shoveling dirt over the road and blowing me side ways.

day3-32.jpg

I stopped here at the OHV area and instantly regretted it as I fought to keep the wind from blowing me over. Fortunately, I got the kickstand down and managed to take a photograph that shows a wave of dirt blowing right to left. I have encountered some seriously strong cross wind gusts over the years but the addition of dirt made for an unpleasant experience.

day3-34.jpg

On the eastern side of Capitol Reef National Park, the canyon walls began blocking surface level winds which effectively stopped the dust storm. That is until random side canyons would once again allow a truck load of dirt to be blown into every crack and crevice. Fortunately, the high winds ceased near park headquarters.

day3-26.jpg

I pulled up to my room, unloaded my bike and proceeded to take the first of three showers to get the dirt off. Weather sure can make long rides interesting. I have been doing this for over a decade and have escaped serious dust storms until now. I laughed about it as I wondered if I should shake out my air filter. Probably so, but I'll do that tomorrow...
 
Excellent ride report and photos.

Would you like me to move this thread into the Story Telling group? This LD group is more suited for Iron Butt type rides and won't get the views that the Story Telling group does, but it's your call, I don't have a problem with leaving it here if that's what you would prefer.
 
Excellent ride report and photos.

Would you like me to move this thread into the Story Telling group? This LD group is more suited for Iron Butt type rides and won't get the views that the Story Telling group does, but it's your call, I don't have a problem with leaving it here if that's what you would prefer.
Thanks. I was wondering about that but not sure. If you don't mind, yes, please move it to the right place.
 
Day 4 - Torrey, Utah to Springdale, Utah

It is mountain time which means I am up an hour earlier than normal. No problem though. I step out of my room and into the beautiful red rock country of southern Utah. The temperature is 42 degrees which feels great in the dry climate. The first part of today's ride takes me south on Utah-12 to Boulder, Escalante and Bryce. From Torrey, it is a quick ascent from red rock country to lush mountain greenness and aspen trees.

map4.PNG


day4-9.jpg

A few miles outside and a thousand feet above Torrey - Capitol Reef National Park.

day4-1.jpg

On my way up the mountain, there is a mixture of pines and aspens which make the ride incredibly pleasant. However, I know there are a host of critters up here that would think nothing of ruining my day. Over the years, I have encountered turkey, deer and big black cows.

day4-2.jpg
The black cows are particularly difficult to see in the shadows. However, I throw caution to the wind and enjoy some spirited ridge riding.

day4-3.jpg

High altitude meadows appear around 8000 feet.
 
day4-4.jpg

It was a brisk 39 degrees at Boulder mountain summit.

day4-5.jpg

The Grand Staircase appears on the horizon.

day4-6.jpg

It is always a nice to ride through the aspens.

day4-13.jpg

Critters! I saw those three deer crossing the road early enough to slow down. I was a little more concerned about their unseen friends. I did not see any and passed along without incident. After I got home and reviewed the video, I noticed her there very close on the right in the shadows. It is all about luck, isn't it.

day4-15.jpg

Boulder, Utah - Very green grass and sheep make this an interesting scene. I am starting to get hungry and remember that some of the best charbroiled burgers in the west are at Nemos in Escalante. In anticipation, I pick up the pace a little.

day4-11.jpg

Ten miles short of town, I made a quick stop at the "Head of Rocks" overlook to get a photo of the disappearing road.

Just a short ride later, I stopped for lunch at Nemos. I cannot remember why I decided to stop here the first time, but I am glad I did. Outdoor seating makes it a great place to eat and take a break from the ride. Their ice cream looks really good too. I would find it easy just to hang out in Escalante for the afternoon but I still have a couple of hours of riding before I reach Springdale. Unfortunately, I forgot to charge up my extra gopro batteries so no more in flight photos for the day. I do make up for that the following day...

With no real temptation to stop and take more photos, I concentrated solely on enjoying the rest of the ride. As usual, the cars were jammed up outside the big tunnel. It only took about five minutes before it was my turn to ride through quite a bit of cool darkness. On the other side, Zion Canyon presented itself. A few switchbacks later and I was out the gate and into Springdale.

day3-26-6.jpg

Springdale has great views also. I thought about waiting until golden hour, but I have been on the road just long enough to make staying awake until dark somewhat difficult. I had some pizza from down the road and then escaped back to my room where I retired for the evening.
 
However, I know there are a host of critters up here that would think nothing of ruining my day. Over the years, I have encountered turkey, deer and big black cows.

The black cows are particularly difficult to see in the shadows. However, I throw caution to the wind and enjoy some spirited ridge riding.

2010 - brought our group of three bikes to an abrupt halt until momma decided it was time to move her calfs off the road.

dscn5748_4753196744_o.jpg
 
2010 - brought our group of three bikes to an abrupt halt until momma decided it was time to move her calfs off the road.
Yep, there they are. That is clearly "their" road. They must water in the late afternoons down the mountain somewhere.
 
Day 5 -Springdale, Utah to Torrey, Utah

Today's plan takes me across the central Nevada desert to Tonopah. But, I don't feel like doing it. This is odd because the ET highway, the Little Ale'inn, Warm Springs and the Tonopah test site are cool places to see. Sometimes, I will even turn down Groom Lake road, hang out and embrace the surveillance like this.

groom-26.jpg


Again, I would much rather ride north but the weather is still unusually cold. Perhaps I should consider delaying the rest of the trip a few weeks. By that time, summer should be present. Hmm...

I have a good friend that lives near Salt Lake City. He is always saying I should come by and park my bike there so that is what I will do. I will fly back home and when ready, fly back to continue a more northerly ride. Now that I have the long term plan figured out I need to figure out what to do for the next couple of days. Even though I just rode Utah-12 the day before, it looks significantly different from the other direction. I never get tired of these roads so I will ride back to Torrey, film some of yesterday's missed areas and treat myself to a steak dinner at the Broken Spur Inn.

Back on the road and straight into Zion National Park.

day5-1.jpg

With one switchback complete, Zion Canyon comes into full view.

day5-2.jpg

The East Temple

day5-3.jpg

The Altar of Sacrifice and the Sundial

day5-6.jpg

The Great Arch.

day5-9.jpg

Winding around the last turn, the cliff walls present an amazing sight.

day5-10.jpg

Howdy Mr. Ranger!

day5-11.jpg

This is one of the longest tunnels in the southwest.

day5-12.jpg

On hot days, it sure feels nice in here.

day5-13.jpg

The tunnel has several overlooks they will not let you stop at. So this is as good as it gets.

day5-14.jpg

Light at the end of the tunnel.
 
Zion National Park continued...

day5-18.jpg

Outside of the tunnel, this is my favorite area of the park. The orange, red and white layers, unique signs of erosion and green trees are a nice sight for the eyes.

day5-19.jpg

This is not one of the longest tunnels in the southwest.

day5-20.jpg

But it looks cool on the inside.

day5-23.jpg

Bizarre layers signal serious geological forces in play.

day5-24.jpg

In the background, Checkerboard Mesa coming into view

day5-26.jpg

An arch in the making.

day5-28.jpg

The distinctive shades of layered rock look almost unreal.

day5-29.jpg

The strange erosion at Checkerboard Mesa is a unique sight that marks the northern park boundary.
 
Again, excellent photos and report. I was stuck behind a group of open-piped V-twins going through those tunnels and all they wanted to do was rev the engines all the way through. :miffed:
 
Again, excellent photos and report. I was stuck behind a group of open-piped V-twins going through those tunnels and all they wanted to do was rev the engines all the way through. :miffed:
That seems to happen more often than not. I try to go easy but it pisses me off too.
 
About an hour or so later, I am once again outside Escalante at the "Head of the Rocks" overlook.
day5-51.jpg

After a short break I continue my ride down Utah-12. Riding this direction is more enjoyable, I think...

day5-52.jpg

This is a fantastic stretch of road that starts out with a pretty serious left turn along a sheer cliff face.

day5-53.jpg

It's a good thing one cannot see down the cliff. I am on the wrong bike to be overly cautious though and lean with enthusiasm.

day5-54.jpg

Another "arch in the making".

day5-55.jpg

Cliff walls, must speed up!

day5-56.jpg

Capitol domes, Koffee and one gorgeous valley.

day5-59.jpg

I used to get upset with the RVs but then I bought one. So now I just sit back and give them time.
 
Escalante - Head of Rocks continued...

day5-61.jpg

The Escalante River canyon comes into view.

Day5-62.jpg

Climbing up the hogs back.

day5-63.jpg

A quick peek down the Escalante River canyon.

day5-66.jpg

On top of...

day5-67.jpg

and along the hogs back. From here it is about an hour ride over the mountain back into Torrey.
 
It only takes about four hours to get to Torrey. This gave me plenty of time to play in and around Capitol Reef National Park - My favorite of all of them.

day5-30.jpg

This view isn't even in the park, it's in the Torrey city limits.

day5-31.jpg

A layer cake of deep red and beige.

day5-32.jpg

The western entrance to the park.

day5-36.jpg

The geology and colors one encounters prior to arriving at the park headquarters are out of this world.
 
Capitol Reef National Park continued...

day5-38.jpg

Fruita is a 19th century Mormon settlement where anyone can still pick fruit today.

day5-39.jpg

Red capitol domes in the cliff.

day5-41.jpg

Fruita - The canopy and Fremont river off to the right cools things down quite nicely.

day5-43.jpg

Fruit for anyone to pick on the left. I think those are cherry trees?

Capitol domes...
day5-44.jpg

day5-45.jpg

day5-46.jpg


day5-47.jpg

Cliff walls, must speed up!
 
day5-48.jpg

At the eastern park boundary, Notom road intercepts the Burr Trail from the north at "the switchbacks".

day5-49.jpg

Looking directly towards Ticaboo with the Henry mountains in background. I prefer it out here over the main areas of the park.

day5-50.jpg

From partly cloudy to stormy skies in 30 minutes. Expecting to get walloped by another dust storm, I stopped here and hung out in the silence for a while. When I was ready to move again, I rode back to Torrey for my steak dinner, a few beers and a good night's sleep.
 
Back
Top